gx470 coil conversion + lift

[Stingray]

So recently my airbags started leaking and its pretty much an undrivable sag...decided to either go with a stock height/weight coil conversion or/and a lift. having trouble figuring out what i really need to get for a 2-2.5" lift installed properly with no alignment issues. 2nd post on here but people have already learned me quit a bit, thanks @Rednexus! and others! great folks. but basically i am having trouble figuring out if i need adjustable or diy sway links, adjustable panhard or diy panhard kit, ucas , and aftermarket strut tops. i am going to go with a metal tech conversion but heres what the rest of my cart looks like so far. wondering if i am getting the correct springs and if i will need a diff drop or something (which i would like to avoid if i can). assuming i am going to need new ucas no matter what just to not wear out the cv ,but my main concern is alignment and less labor installing other things like sway links ,etc. (ucas are not in cart because they are 200$ cheaper on other websites)
thanks everyone
Front Shocks:
90021-P OME Front Shocks - Softer Valving

Front Coils:
2885 70-180 lbs extra front weight

Front diff drop kit:
None

Rear Coils:
OME-2896 - Old Man Emu Rear Springs

Add Rear Coil Conversion Kit GX470/4Runner w/Airbags:
None

Coilover Assembly:
Yes (+$199) ($199.00)

 

[Rednexus]

Have you considered going with a complete lift kit? Something like an Eibach Pro-Truck, Ironman Nitro Gas Charger, Foam Cell Pro, or one of the Dobinson's lifts might be a bit easier since you'd get all of the parts in a single purchase. The Eibach and Ironman kits usually come with a coal spring conversion (or can be ordered with one).

If you are on a budget I'd go with the Eibach Pro-Truck and a set of JBA UCA's, plus an Eimkeith panhard bar correction kit (requires a few minutes of welding). This would get you a "complete" lift and all suspension geometry would be very close to stock (not the case without the UCA's or the panahrd bar correction kit). IMO the extended sway bar links aren't totally necessary but a good idea, especially if you can have the DIY'd.

One other item is that your LCA alignment cams might be seized, unless you live in a very dry climate, so I'd budget time/effort to cut them out and replace them with new ones. I went ahead and replaced my LCA's, sway bar end links, and tie rod ends when I did my lift as they were pretty worn-out at 145K. It was worth the extra expense. My total lift was around $3200 in parts.

 

[Stingray]

Have you considered going with a complete lift kit? Something like an Eibach Pro-Truck, Ironman Nitro Gas Charger, Foam Cell Pro, or one of the Dobinson's lifts might be a bit easier since you'd get all of the parts in a single purchase. The Eibach and Ironman kits usually come with a coal spring conversion (or can be ordered with one).

If you are on a budget I'd go with the Eibach Pro-Truck and a set of JBA UCA's, plus an Eimkeith panhard bar correction kit (requires a few minutes of welding). This would get you a "complete" lift and all suspension geometry would be very close to stock (not the case without the UCA's or the panahrd bar correction kit). IMO the extended sway bar links aren't totally necessary but a good idea, especially if you can have the DIY'd.

One other item is that your LCA alignment cams might be seized, unless you live in a very dry climate, so I'd budget time/effort to cut them out and replace them with new ones. I went ahead and replaced my LCA's, sway bar end links, and tie rod ends when I did my lift as they were pretty worn-out at 145K. It was worth the extra expense. My total lift was around $3200 iHave you considered going with a complete lift kit? Something like an Eibach Pro-Truck, Ironman Nitro Gas Charger, Foam Cell Pro, or one of the Dobinson's lifts might be a bit easier since you'd get all of the parts in a single purchase. The Eibach and Ironman kits usually come with a coal spring conversion (or can be ordered with one).

If you are on a budget I'd go with the Eibach Pro-Truck and a set of JBA UCA's, plus an Eimkeith panhard bar correction kit (requires a few minutes of welding). This would get you a "complete" lift and all suspension geometry would be very close to stock (not the case without the UCA's or the panahrd bar correction kit). IMO the extended sway bar links aren't totally necessary but a good idea, especially if you can have the DIY'd.

One other item is that your LCA alignment cams might be seized, unless you live in a very dry climate, so I'd budget time/effort to cut them out and replace them with new ones. I went ahead and replaced my LCA's, sway bar end links, and tie rod ends when I did my lift as they were pretty worn-out at 145K. It was worth the extra expense. My total lift was around $3200 in parts

I have considered both of those and still am but i figured if im going to do the lift instead of stock height coil conversion in the rear i might as well go no budget on the lift. But if those options are just as good as ome or dobinsons i am %100 open to going with either. I dont know much though, so if that sounds ignorant i can understand haha! Thats great to know i want to do it right and not have any future issues with the setup. took a few screen shots. Im in florida with like 80% humidity lol. Saving money is a concern but not more than reliability and performance. mine is currently at 170k. thanks again your very knowledgeable and helpful. A complete kit would make it a lot easier for me to understand but almost everything is out of stock. Might have to wait a bit if I dont go with the ome lift or stock height conversion.

 

[Rednexus]

I think at 170K, most of your suspension is probably worn out (control arm bushings, ball joints, sway bar end links, tie rod ends, etc), and your lower control arm alignment cams are probably seized. So even if you upgrade the shocks, you won't have peak performance if the rest of your suspension is worn out. Things like rubber bushings crack and get soft, ball joints get loose, etc. I replaced all 4 of my rear control arms and my front lower control arms, plus all 4 sway bar end links and tie rods, with Moog parts (some say they are terrible - others say they are OK - mine have been fine so far) from Rock Auto, where they are not expensive, when I did my lift. All of my bushings were cracked and all of the ball joints and rod ends were loose and floppy.

Being on somewhat of a budget, and assuming you want to keep the GX for awhile, I'd recommend saving up and just doing the entire suspension all at once and couple it with a budget lift (assuming you can live with leaking airbags for awhile longer). That will give you a nice fresh GX that should drive and align very well and drive better than the factory setup.

 

[helocat]

So recently my airbags started leaking and its pretty much an undrivable sag...decided to either go with a stock height/weight coil conversion or/and a lift. having trouble figuring out what i really need to get for a 2-2.5" lift installed properly with no alignment issues. 2nd post on here but people have already learned me quit a bit, thanks @Rednexus! and others! great folks. but basically i am having trouble figuring out if i need adjustable or diy sway links, adjustable panhard or diy panhard kit, ucas , and aftermarket strut tops. i am going to go with a metal tech conversion but heres what the rest of my cart looks like so far. wondering if i am getting the correct springs and if i will need a diff drop or something (which i would like to avoid if i can). assuming i am going to need new ucas no matter what just to not wear out the cv ,but my main concern is alignment and less labor installing other things like sway links ,etc. (ucas are not in cart because they are 200$ cheaper on other websites)
thanks everyone

Sorry to hear the airbags are going. But easy fix to swap them out for coils. We designed the original bolt in coilover kit and I see your indicating getting that from us, thank you.

As for your specific questions, for the suspension kit you are describing the only key thing I would add at the time of install is replace the top strut hats or "strut bearings". The original rubber on them is usually tired and its worth the $50 for a set. You can get these off Amazon easley or your local NAPA. Since your getting new strut top hats, you can have a local shop assemble them for you, again some NAPAs offer this or just your local service shop that does struts. In our area its about $50 total to put a set together. This will make install easier for you as your truck is fully drivable up to install time.

Other Toyota part to get is a set of rear upper spring cones, you can get these from Toyota, a local wrecking yard (any 2003 + 4Runner, FJ Cruiser or GX460 base model will have them and its hard to hurt them in an accident outside of fire) Metal-tech 4x4 also has the custom made high performance polyurethane "Key Cones" developed by MT4x4 and Energy Suspension and made in the USA. The MT4x4 Key Cones come in all stage 2 conversion kits.

As for replacing rear links, adding adjustable panhard etc. My suggestion is to install the full suspension kit, then drive the truck. If you do the upgrades in steps you can track (feel) the changes in your truck. You can also troubleshoot issues faster if they are to come up post install. For example say you replace every bushing on your truck, do the suspension front and rear, all shocks and upgrad pan hard bar, but when your done you hear a clunk when you drive.... it is harder to figure out where that clunk is since you just had the whole truck torn down. Vrs. one system at a time, you know where the issue is as you just had it apart.

Now some parts like installing Upper Control Arms or UCA's is best done at the same time of the suspension install. This is due to #1 the UCA is very easy to get to when the front strut assembly is out and #2 you will have to pay for a 2nd alignment later if you do the UCAs separately. But lower links, panhard etc. all easy to add later as they are not going to effect doing them at the time of install or just doing them later. (at least it would not in our shop) Sway bar drops, again the trucks will work with the stock parts, you can decide as you go if you need to add extensions or drops. (I have not ran sway bar drops on my GX470 since 2015). I do agree with @Rednexus on the tie rod ends. If your having a shop do the work, just have them check them to see if they need replacing. It will save your new tires. NOTE if you do, tell them you want your OLD ONES BACK! Yes you want them back as they are perfict trail spares! (its the inner tie rod you "might" need most likely.... guess how I know!) Tip of the day: Used take off mechanical parts are great low cost trail spares.

Dif drop kit: This is a personal preference for most. Me personally I just keep my CV boots healthy and dont over lift the front end. Fresh OEM Toyota boot kit for each side is a great way to go right from the dealer. ($65ish each depending on where your at) However the common diff drop kit like the Total Chaos 87200 kit does work and is not that costly at $38.48. But healthy boots and not over lifting the truck = no need for the drop kits. (Note: OEM boot kit to refresh your OEM CVs way better than discount auto store "reman" $75 made in China aftermarket CVs. Your stock Toyota CV/axles are way nicer! The cheep replacement CVs make a low cost trail spare)

If your looking for Old Man Emu suspension or OME actually in stock with a vendor, we have them! Also all ih8mud members get an extra 5% off with the code ih8mud.

We have in stock full OME kits with Med springs for your GX470. Also all full suspension kits purchased for a GX470 include a free Metal-tech 4x4 stage 1 coilover conversion kit.

As of right now we have 16 of these full kits in stock.

OME Lexus GX470 Medium Load Suspension Kit - 2" Lift

Check out Metal Tech 4x4—your home for high end off road parts and accessories, specializing in Toyota. Browse our selection of off road products today.

www.metaltech4x4.com

As of right now we have 10 SPC UCA's in stock for your truck.

Light Racing Lexus GX470/GX460 SPC Upper Control Arms

Gain an additional + or - 2° of camber and 0 to +4° caster change with the ICON Lexus GX460 & GX470 SPC upper control arms, available at Metal Tech 4x4.

www.metaltech4x4.com

We are also here to help with any questions drawing from our almost 22yrs of experience.

 

[Stingray]

I think at 170K, most of your suspension is probably worn out (control arm bushings, ball joints, sway bar end links, tie rod ends, etc), and your lower control arm alignment cams are probably seized. So even if you upgrade the shocks, you won't have peak performance if the rest of your suspension is worn out. Things like rubber bushings crack and get soft, ball joints get loose, etc. I replaced all 4 of my rear control arms and my front lower control arms, plus all 4 sway bar end links and tie rods, with Moog parts (some say they are terrible - others say they are OK - mine have been fine so far) from Rock Auto, where they are not expensive, when I did my lift. All of my bushings were cracked and all of the ball joints and rod ends were loose and floppy.

Being on somewhat of a budget, and assuming you want to keep the GX for awhile, I'd recommend saving up and just doing the entire suspension all at once and couple it with a budget lift (assuming you can live with leaking airbags for awhile longer). That will give you a nice fresh GX that should drive and align very well and drive better than the factory setup.

That sounds a lot better and would make a lot more sense just to buy it all at once and not worry about it again. She is an old girl, I have to check the carfax and see what was replaced already I think the boots were done about 40k ago. Not sure what else but the service history was pretty immaculate. Either way definitely want to make sure it’s riding how it’s supposed to and not just wasting money on the lift without other components like you mentioned. If I have to wait a little it’s okay because I rather do it right once than wrong twice. Unfortunately I’m not driving it at the moment because the sag is so severe I don’t want to damage anything else. It’s like leaning to the left in the rear at a 45 degree angle and i don’t have kdss so that is a big concern that I don’t mess up other things. It’s been killing me not to drive it but don’t want to have to face and repercussions from driving it like that. That sounds like a plan!

 

[Stingray]

Sorry to hear the airbags are going. But easy fix to swap them out for coils. We designed the original bolt in coilover kit and I see your indicating getting that from us, thank you.

As for your specific questions, for the suspension kit you are describing the only key thing I would add at the time of install is replace the top strut hats or "strut bearings". The original rubber on them is usually tired and its worth the $50 for a set. You can get these off Amazon easley or your local NAPA. Since your getting new strut top hats, you can have a local shop assemble them for you, again some NAPAs offer this or just your local service shop that does struts. In our area its about $50 total to put a set together. This will make install easier for you as your truck is fully drivable up to install time.

Other Toyota part to get is a set of rear upper spring cones, you can get these from Toyota, a local wrecking yard (any 2003 + 4Runner, FJ Cruiser or GX460 base model will have them and its hard to hurt them in an accident outside of fire) Metal-tech 4x4 also has the custom made high performance polyurethane "Key Cones" developed by MT4x4 and Energy Suspension and made in the USA. The MT4x4 Key Cones come in all stage 2 conversion kits.

As for replacing rear links, adding adjustable panhard etc. My suggestion is to install the full suspension kit, then drive the truck. If you do the upgrades in steps you can track (feel) the changes in your truck. You can also troubleshoot issues faster if they are to come up post install. For example say you replace every bushing on your truck, do the suspension front and rear, all shocks and upgrad pan hard bar, but when your done you hear a clunk when you drive.... it is harder to figure out where that clunk is since you just had the whole truck torn down. Vrs. one system at a time, you know where the issue is as you just had it apart.

Now some parts like installing Upper Control Arms or UCA's is best done at the same time of the suspension install. This is due to #1 the UCA is very easy to get to when the front strut assembly is out and #2 you will have to pay for a 2nd alignment later if you do the UCAs separately. But lower links, panhard etc. all easy to add later as they are not going to effect doing them at the time of install or just doing them later. (at least it would not in our shop) Sway bar drops, again the trucks will work with the stock parts, you can decide as you go if you need to add extensions or drops. (I have not ran sway bar drops on my GX470 since 2015). I do agree with @Rednexus on the tie rod ends. If your having a shop do the work, just have them check them to see if they need replacing. It will save your new tires. NOTE if you do, tell them you want your OLD ONES BACK! Yes you want them back as they are perfict trail spares! (its the inner tie rod you "might" need most likely.... guess how I know!) Tip of the day: Used take off mechanical parts are great low cost trail spares.

Dif drop kit: This is a personal preference for most. Me personally I just keep my CV boots healthy and dont over lift the front end. Fresh OEM Toyota boot kit for each side is a great way to go right from the dealer. ($65ish each depending on where your at) However the common diff drop kit like the Total Chaos 87200 kit does work and is not that costly at $38.48. But healthy boots and not over lifting the truck = no need for the drop kits. (Note: OEM boot kit to refresh your OEM CVs way better than discount auto store "reman" $75 made in China aftermarket CVs. Your stock Toyota CV/axles are way nicer! The cheep replacement CVs make a low cost trail spare)

If your looking for Old Man Emu suspension or OME actually in stock with a vendor, we have them! Also all ih8mud members get an extra 5% off with the code ih8mud.

We have in stock full OME kits with Med springs for your GX470. Also all full suspension kits purchased for a GX470 include a free Metal-tech 4x4 stage 1 coilover conversion kit.

As of right now we have 16 of these full kits in stock.

OME Lexus GX470 Medium Load Suspension Kit - 2" Lift

Check out Metal Tech 4x4—your home for high end off road parts and accessories, specializing in Toyota. Browse our selection of off road products today.

www.metaltech4x4.com

As of right now we have 10 SPC UCA's in stock for your truck.

Light Racing Lexus GX470/GX460 SPC Upper Control Arms

Gain an additional + or - 2° of camber and 0 to +4° caster change with the ICON Lexus GX460 & GX470 SPC upper control arms, available at Metal Tech 4x4.

www.metaltech4x4.com

We are also here to help with any questions drawing from our almost 22yrs of experience.

That is awesome. I’ve read everything you said and your very welcome I’m heard great things from MT. I really appreciate it! Very helpful as well. It’s great there’s people on here that take the time to really help. You guys cleared my questions I’ve had for days in 6 paragraphs. Saving my life here llol! Yeah unfortunately I can’t drive it right now because the sag is too severe. Have to go back to work now but I have read everything and I appreciate all the help it’s awesome

 

[Stingray]

Goihh no

Sorry to hear the airbags are going. But easy fix to swap them out for coils. We designed the original bolt in coilover kit and I see your indicating getting that from us, thank you.

As for your specific questions, for the suspension kit you are describing the only key thing I would add at the time of install is replace the top strut hats or "strut bearings". The original rubber on them is usually tired and its worth the $50 for a set. You can get these off Amazon easley or your local NAPA. Since your getting new strut top hats, you can have a local shop assemble them for you, again some NAPAs offer this or just your local service shop that does struts. In our area its about $50 total to put a set together. This will make install easier for you as your truck is fully drivable up to install time.

Other Toyota part to get is a set of rear upper spring cones, you can get these from Toyota, a local wrecking yard (any 2003 + 4Runner, FJ Cruiser or GX460 base model will have them and its hard to hurt them in an accident outside of fire) Metal-tech 4x4 also has the custom made high performance polyurethane "Key Cones" developed by MT4x4 and Energy Suspension and made in the USA. The MT4x4 Key Cones come in all stage 2 conversion kits.

As for replacing rear links, adding adjustable panhard etc. My suggestion is to install the full suspension kit, then drive the truck. If you do the upgrades in steps you can track (feel) the changes in your truck. You can also troubleshoot issues faster if they are to come up post install. For example say you replace every bushing on your truck, do the suspension front and rear, all shocks and upgrad pan hard bar, but when your done you hear a clunk when you drive.... it is harder to figure out where that clunk is since you just had the whole truck torn down. Vrs. one system at a time, you know where the issue is as you just had it apart.

Now some parts like installing Upper Control Arms or UCA's is best done at the same time of the suspension install. This is due to #1 the UCA is very easy to get to when the front strut assembly is out and #2 you will have to pay for a 2nd alignment later if you do the UCAs separately. But lower links, panhard etc. all easy to add later as they are not going to effect doing them at the time of install or just doing them later. (at least it would not in our shop) Sway bar drops, again the trucks will work with the stock parts, you can decide as you go if you need to add extensions or drops. (I have not ran sway bar drops on my GX470 since 2015). I do agree with @Rednexus on the tie rod ends. If your having a shop do the work, just have them check them to see if they need replacing. It will save your new tires. NOTE if you do, tell them you want your OLD ONES BACK! Yes you want them back as they are perfict trail spares! (its the inner tie rod you "might" need most likely.... guess how I know!) Tip of the day: Used take off mechanical parts are great low cost trail spares.

Dif drop kit: This is a personal preference for most. Me personally I just keep my CV boots healthy and dont over lift the front end. Fresh OEM Toyota boot kit for each side is a great way to go right from the dealer. ($65ish each depending on where your at) However the common diff drop kit like the Total Chaos 87200 kit does work and is not that costly at $38.48. But healthy boots and not over lifting the truck = no need for the drop kits. (Note: OEM boot kit to refresh your OEM CVs way better than discount auto store "reman" $75 made in China aftermarket CVs. Your stock Toyota CV/axles are way nicer! The cheep replacement CVs make a low cost trail spare)

If your looking for Old Man Emu suspension or OME actually in stock with a vendor, we have them! Also all ih8mud members get an extra 5% off with the code ih8mud.

We have in stock full OME kits with Med springs for your GX470. Also all full suspension kits purchased for a GX470 include a free Metal-tech 4x4 stage 1 coilover conversion kit.

As of right now we have 16 of these full kits in stock.

OME Lexus GX470 Medium Load Suspension Kit - 2" Lift

Check out Metal Tech 4x4—your home for high end off road parts and accessories, specializing in Toyota. Browse our selection of off road products today.

www.metaltech4x4.com

As of right now we have 10 SPC UCA's in stock for your truck.

Light Racing Lexus GX470/GX460 SPC Upper Control Arms

Gain an additional + or - 2° of camber and 0 to +4° caster change with the ICON Lexus GX460 & GX470 SPC upper control arms, available at Metal Tech 4x4.

www.metaltech4x4.com

We are also here to help with any questions drawing from our almost 22yrs of experience.

going back to what you said about over lifting. Is a 2.5 inch stock weight front lift going to be too high and require a diff drop? I’m either going with stock weight front 2.5-2.0 rear, or with medium weight coils at 2” because I don’t think they make an option for medium weight in 2.5 for the front. (I’m assuming because of the tension is more so you don’t need the extra half an inch to keep the front up.

 

[Rednexus]

FWIW, I'm at 2.5" in the front and did not do a diff drop. The GX runs/drives great and my CV boots are doing just fine (NAPA remans with the HD thermoplastic boot). The diff drop reduces ground clearance, and replacing re-booting a CV is a pretty easy job (1 hr or less per side), so I elected to skip the diff drop and just live with the risk of swapping out CV's more often (although next time I'll pre-emptively put an aftermarket boot on designed for lifted trucks).

 

[helocat]

Goihh no

going back to what you said about over lifting. Is a 2.5 inch stock weight front lift going to be too high and require a diff drop? I’m either going with stock weight front 2.5-2.0 rear, or with medium weight coils at 2” because I don’t think they make an option for medium weight in 2.5 for the front. (I’m assuming because of the tension is more so you don’t need the extra half an inch to keep the front up.

The OME Medium suspension kit for the Prado 120 trucks, (in the USA its the 4th Gen 4R, early FJ Cruiser and our GX470s's) are designed specifically to work as a complete system. It's the gold standard and actually the only actual Made in Australia system talked about in this thread. Other "Australian" brands have copied the basics from OME and sent production to Asia. ARB/OME is the #1 brand in Australia for a reason.

2.5" for the front and 2.0 for the rear = almost a level truck. However the rear will still be a little higher than the front with the intention that a lifted truck will be carrying some gear. As for a diff drop need, its not used by most that run this kit. Again my suggestion is good healthy OEM CV's running the factory Toyota boot kits for the best long term performance.

Since 1988 I have been rebuilding Toyota Birfields, basically one ended CV in all the front solid axle LandCruisers. Started doing full CV rebuilds in 2006 when we got into the FJ Cruisers. Done custom long travel CV builds and rebuilt allot of CVs both OEM and aftermarket. I have tried the "Supper boots" that have come and gone under different names. In the end Mr. Toyota got it right the first time. OEM CV's/axles with OEM boot kits have the best long term longevity in my personal experience. For $65 per side you get both boots, bands and both grease packs. NOTE: Toyota runs TWO different types of grease, inner is Lithium based and outer is the common Moly. The OEM rebuild kits include both types of grease. Every "aftermarket" CV I have opened up run the same universal grease on both ends. Yes its a messy job to rebuild the CV's but its actually rather easy to do. Just extracting CV's from the truck can be more of a job than actual rebuild of them, sometimes! BUT its a good skill to learn so you know how to do it on the trial if you ever hear the dreaded "pop" getting on it trying to climb an obstacle!

Mark

 

[Stingray]

FWIW, I'm at 2.5" in the front and did not do a diff drop. The GX runs/drives great and my CV boots are doing just fine (NAPA remans with the HD thermoplastic boot). The diff drop reduces ground clearance, and replacing re-booting a CV is a pretty easy job (1 hr or less per side), so I elected to skip the diff drop and just live with the risk of swapping out CV's more often (although next time I'll pre-emptively put an aftermarket boot on designed for lifted trucks).

That’s great I think I’m going to go with the ome lift. I really appreciate your help and taking the time! Maybe I’ll buy some boots just to have on standby incase anything happens.

 

[Stingray]

The OME Medium suspension kit for the Prado 120 trucks, (in the USA its the 4th Gen 4R, early FJ Cruiser and our GX470s's) are designed specifically to work as a complete system. It's the gold standard and actually the only actual Made in Australia system talked about in this thread. Other "Australian" brands have copied the basics from OME and sent production to Asia. ARB/OME is the #1 brand in Australia for a reason.

2.5" for the front and 2.0 for the rear = almost a level truck. However the rear will still be a little higher than the front with the intention that a lifted truck will be carrying some gear. As for a diff drop need, its not used by most that run this kit. Again my suggestion is good healthy OEM CV's running the factory Toyota boot kits for the best long term performance.

Since 1988 I have been rebuilding Toyota Birfields, basically one ended CV in all the front solid axle LandCruisers. Started doing full CV rebuilds in 2006 when we got into the FJ Cruisers. Done custom long travel CV builds and rebuilt allot of CVs both OEM and aftermarket. I have tried the "Supper boots" that have come and gone under different names. In the end Mr. Toyota got it right the first time. OEM CV's/axles with OEM boot kits have the best long term longevity in my personal experience. For $65 per side you get both boots, bands and both grease packs. NOTE: Toyota runs TWO different types of grease, inner is Lithium based and outer is the common Moly. The OEM rebuild kits include both types of grease. Every "aftermarket" CV I have opened up run the same universal grease on both ends. Yes its a messy job to rebuild the CV's but its actually rather easy to do. Just extracting CV's from the truck can be more of a job than actual rebuild of them, sometimes! BUT its a good skill to learn so you know how to do it on the trial if you ever hear the dreaded "pop" getting on it trying to climb an obstacle!

Mark

Going to Order within a few days off the MT website that’s awesome they come with the stage 1 conversion. Than I’ll get some isolators separate. Could I re use my strut tops for the new lift? Or should I buy new ones for the ome lift. Appreciate all your help! You guys are awesome. Maybe I’ll pick some boots up too just incase down the road. But as of now I’m getting the lift,uca,pan hard adjustment, sway links, isolator cones. Either going to do diy options like nexus said or if I can’t I’ll buy them.

 

[Stingray]

Do I need new strut tops ?