Today's project!
Before & after ----> Victory 4x4 Blitz bumper, Warn VR8S, side step delete:
Those bumper cuts made me about puke doing them. No going back if you make a wrong cut. Luckily my buddy was willing to do them while I cowered in the corner and covered my eyes.
After the bumper, I got to the steps, and weirdly zero sheets were given cutting them!
Took a ton of stuff to recycling afterwards...
Some fast tips for the next guy on the Victory 4x4 Blitz bumper install:
Take the fascia off,
then bolt up the bumper,
then make the cuts to the fascia and mock it up. You are going to have to pull the fascia on and off several times to get the cuts right. This is way easier than the Victory way of taking the bumper off and on to check the cuts every time, while leaving the fascia installed. Also allows for easy winch install with the bumper already mounted up. I had to take the fascia off about a dozen times and if I was pulling the bumper with winch every time I would have killed myself.
Warn VR8 fits with tons of room, no need to relocate control pack. You can drop it right in from the top after the bumper is on by simply unbolting 4 bolts from the radiator support and removing it temporally.
You need to remove the radiator duct / wings which is not discussed in Victory's video. I reinstalled them afterwards by cutting them up and installing them in quarters; also had to trim a lot of material from them. There is about 3/5 of the original material left to direct airflow to the radiator. You could probably leave them off and it wouldn't really matter.
Front parking sensors need a ton of work to reinstall on a 2020+ because the flanges that come off of the grille to hold them don't work in the bumper holes. Again Victory's video was not good in this regard. I left them uninstalled, and turned off the parking sensors.
There is a Victory supplied grille trim piece that is supposed to go on the top of the bumper and mask the bottom of the grille. I left it off. It rubbed the grille and shoved the whole thing out of alignment. I guess if you install the fascia first and the bumper last it would work, but the way I did it, the fascia couldn't clear it on reinstallation.
Bumper is slightly shifted to the passenger side, about 1/3". If you bolt it dead center the tie ins that run from the sides of the bumper to the frame threaded holes above the factory recovery / tie down points are unable to be installed - one is too tight to fit and one is too loose. I'm not sure if my frame or bumper are tweaked or not, but I saw someone else ask whether anyone else had their bumper slightly off center - and this one is.
Victory also wants you to drill holes in the bumper to install self tapping screws to hold up the corners of the fender liners. No way am I drilling holes in a powder coated piece of metal for something as mundane as that. I ripped the rivets out of the fender liners and took off the bottom front edge of the fender liners that was secured to the rest of the liner with rivets, which is almost exactly where the bumper connects to the fender liner; and I used 2 14" zip ties on each side through existing holes in the liner and the bumper to secure the bottom and outside corner of the fender liner.
It was a fairly difficult install honestly. Took about 7 hours non-stop for me and a buddy. I'm glad I did it for the personal satisfaction of it, but if I had no shortage of money I'd have paid someone else....
. All of my aux accessories are powered off of this, including the ARB twin. I do have one fusetap inside the vehicle to get an "IGN ON" signal for some switches and other items in there. Obviously this was a ton of work to design and buid, but it's been a very clean, reliable, and safe setup, especially compared to multiple wires/fuse holders/fuse taps laying around under the hood (which is what I had before).
) ... no pressure ... 
