I notice their install document doesn’t show those bottom frame holes being used
GX460 & GXOR B.S. thread (8 Viewers)
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You're definitely right-- but I'm thinking maybe the parts they used were for the hole in the bracket that sits below #9 on here?
r2m
Richard
So from your reply, I assume it's not an insulated wire?
If it's not insulated, I wouldn't worry about it and it's as Acrad said.
Hiluxforever
SILVER Star
I found 6 small creek crossings today.
My B road list grew by about 8 as I explored northern Monroe County.
Left is North. My phone is being cranky.
My B road list grew by about 8 as I explored northern Monroe County.
Left is North. My phone is being cranky.
Hiluxforever
SILVER Star
I picked 5100s as the budget 2" monotube option. It only gets better from there. Both of the J150s in the family run them. When the Xreas gave up yhe ghost on yhe T4R I had already bought the 5100s so Alex only had to worry about the labor.
I have heard great things about pretty much everything more expensive. When I am ready to upgrade I am probably going to look at Elka for a 2.5" monotube solution.
I have heard great things about pretty much everything more expensive. When I am ready to upgrade I am probably going to look at Elka for a 2.5" monotube solution.
Initially, I was leaning towards the 8112s for their zone valving and projected long service life. Regardless of my choice it will be overkill. I sold my 4Runner due to annoyances with the FOX shocks. Primary duties for the next few years will be family trips with our 5 year old and a sprinkling of mild trails when I can sneak them in.
Hiluxforever
SILVER Star
I'd you are OK with a digressive shock, they are not for everyone, I highly recommend the 5100. They do soften up for the big potholes and bumps on road and off. I think I am 1.75 up front with 1.5" Cornfed spacers in the back.
The 6112 is an in-between, and costs more as you will be purchasing coils with those dampers as they are too large for the oem coils from my understanding.
I’m unsure if digressive would be right. Prior to my 4Runner I spent over a decade between a spec B legacy gt and then an Audi S4. Obviously very different driving experience, but my needs/wants are also very different in this dad life. We do longer road trips 6-8 hours of highway and the destinations often offer opportunities to get into nature, especially in Michigan’s upper peninsula. I don’t need an ultra high performance setup, unless that’s what will result in comfortable on road experience. My research says it will not. This contradicts my past suspension in the euro tuning world, so it gets confusing.
i've had the stock suspension and accutune kings suspension on my gx. i do not know much about the mid tier suspension.
8112's/fox/king are designed for taking big hits. with the kings it's an odd "pillowy" sensation when you take a big hit. i wouldn't buy them if you don't have issues with bottoming out when booming down dirt roads/dunes. i'd get something else if you are just trying to get more clearance. with that said accutune did a good job tuning the shocks for both on road and off road handing.
8112's/fox/king are designed for taking big hits. with the kings it's an odd "pillowy" sensation when you take a big hit. i wouldn't buy them if you don't have issues with bottoming out when booming down dirt roads/dunes. i'd get something else if you are just trying to get more clearance. with that said accutune did a good job tuning the shocks for both on road and off road handing.
This clears up your previous posts, and your research is not wrong. Many don't understand that so you must be a quick study LOL.
My last car except for the Ex Wife's was a 67 mustang that I tried to run a trapline with and the shocks eventually rusted through and popped out the hood early-mid 70's. That was the turning point for me that cars may not suit my lifestyle. When everyone else was putting 50's on the rear with traction bars and skinnies on the front I was trying to get the stang higher off the ground. Can't get there from here I've had 4x4's since then.
The ride comfort between Off Road and Highway is always a compromise. How much time do you spend on each and how rough is the off road is a good place to start. And I always start with tires. An AT tire is going to be a decent compromise and some are better than others. The reason for a lift is to fit a larger tire for more ground clearance. You can put larger tires on right now without a lift. You mentioned the cushy ride on your GX and want to keep it. If you are happy with it don't lift. I know that is going to upset some but lifting is always a compromise. And comes at a cost with longevity and reliability, if you plan on keeping your vehicle for a long time it is going to cost you one way or another.
On a FB group someone from Texas recently said having 500 pounds of corn in the back made it sag and handle poorly. Depends on your suspension. I have the Luxury model with self leveling air bags in the rear and electronic Adaptive Variable Suspension shocks. Couple of weeks ago carried half a ton of lead shot in the back and couldn't tell any difference from an empty load. I absolutely love the AVS and self leveling airbags, I also tow. Heck even my Polaris Ranger Trail Boss has air bags and compressor on the rear.
My 13 Tacoma Baja T|X Edition had factory TRD tuned Bilstein 6112 on the front. They were good at higher speed on washboards. But at real life speeds off road where you can't see more than 20 yards in front on a 2 track not so much. I put Firestone air bags on the rear for towing and I was the "automatic" self leveler. When the suspension gave up the ghost I went with 5100's but more importantly correct leaf packs for my loads, I went with Old Man Emu.
If you want to keep that factory plush ride go with the largest AT tire that will fit in your spare location. With factory hitch that is 31.7" If you go larger then you are going to have to look at a hitch type tire carrier or swing arm. IME they are a real PITA if you use your rig as a DD. And if your wife uses it to get groceries and store runs, or you do, they get old really fast.
Corner weight is also a consideration, take into account both wheels and tires. Mine is a 19 that I picked up in Nov. with 42K on it and 18" wheels. I wanted 17" for a taller sidewall and better tire selection. I went with TRD Pro wheels which are 5 pounds lighter than factory wheels and offset any extra tire weight. Also went with 31.7" tires.
Body on the GX is low hanging fruit to the ground. So did a front bumper chop and got rid of the sidesteps and put on zero offset sliders. Much gooder. The rear bumper and especially the hitch is now the low hanging points. Hopefully the ground will dry out in the next couple of days and I can verify the stinger I need for hooking up the trailer. Pretty sure for the first time in my life I will need a level or a rise stinger, that is low. I also want to keep it somewhat stock looking and not screaming off road bromobile. That ship done sailed for me a long time ago.
Depending on where you go in the UP and if you are with family you likely will not need to do any body cutting. Unless cell phone reception has improved last few years you will want a spare tire though unless you want a REALLY long walk out. I spend Mid Sept. to Mid Nov. in the Arrowhead of Mn. and the Sunset Country of Canada driving 2 tracks. I drop air pressure down to 20-22 psi when running 2 tracks then air them back up at the end of the day before heading back to camp or the cabin. It helps a lot to keep a decent ride off road and not pound your eye teeth down to your piss sack.
If you are still interested in lifting and suspension a really good place to start is with Tinker's Adventure. He is a great resource
I would avoid any of the digressive valved shocks in that case. I would look at the Dobinsons twin tube nitro kits if your main concern is ride comfort and you don't want to spend big money on an adjustable remote res setup. I just helped a friend install a 2 inch Dobinsons twin tube kit on his TRD Sport Tacoma and even with the add-a-leaf in the back he says it feels like the stock ride but better on big bumps.
If you do want to spend big money on an adjustable setup, I really like my Dobinsons MRAs. They are better than stock on the street and so nice off road, but you do have to be prepared to tinker with all the adjustments to get everything set up correctly and to your liking. I was also looking at an Accutune King setup as I think you can get those very comfortable, but I also think Kings need a lot of upkeep if you live anywhere humid or salty.
When you have a setup like that, there is a speed at which a standard speed bump is unable to perform its intended function and it is amusing. You hit a speed bump going like 12 miles an hour and it feels like you drove over a speed bump too fast. You hit the same speed bump at 25 and it feels like the truck just picks its tires up to clear it.
r2m
Richard
Whatever height lift you get will eventually settle a little, so a 2" lift in time over time may relax into a 1.5" - 1.75" lift.
Be sure that the lift you get will be representative of your load. If all you do is tote around kids and light gear, stay with lighter weight suspension.
If you plan on the future doing trips with more gear like bringing a fridge, roof top tent, extra gas and water, etc. then start out with heavier weight springs and shocks and just deal with the firmer ride for a while. It'll be cheaper than having to swap out suspension if you decide to add more gear when camping or doing outings.
Of note, most folks will agree that adding a good aftermarket suspension and taller tires (read: taller sidewalls) will greatly improve ride quality.
The important thing, as I've posted before, be sure you know your end game of what/how you will want your rig to be in the future.
Be sure that the lift you get will be representative of your load. If all you do is tote around kids and light gear, stay with lighter weight suspension.
If you plan on the future doing trips with more gear like bringing a fridge, roof top tent, extra gas and water, etc. then start out with heavier weight springs and shocks and just deal with the firmer ride for a while. It'll be cheaper than having to swap out suspension if you decide to add more gear when camping or doing outings.
Of note, most folks will agree that adding a good aftermarket suspension and taller tires (read: taller sidewalls) will greatly improve ride quality.
The important thing, as I've posted before, be sure you know your end game of what/how you will want your rig to be in the future.
I remember seeing a map of every dirt road in Iowa on the interweb a while back. Might be useful to you.
Hiluxforever
SILVER Star
I have a handful I used to build my list, this was the first tim I just went out dead reckoning to see what I could find. Only one had a muddy exit and Atrac handled it just fine. Getting better at feeding just enough throttle to trigger ATRAC.
This clears up your previous posts, and your research is not wrong. Many don't understand that so you must be a quick study LOL.
My last car except for the Ex Wife's was a 67 mustang that I tried to run a trapline with and the shocks eventually rusted through and popped out the hood early-mid 70's. That was the turning point for me that cars may not suit my lifestyle. When everyone else was putting 50's on the rear with traction bars and skinnies on the front I was trying to get the stang higher off the ground. Can't get there from here I've had 4x4's since then.
The ride comfort between Off Road and Highway is always a compromise. How much time do you spend on each and how rough is the off road is a good place to start. And I always start with tires. An AT tire is going to be a decent compromise and some are better than others. The reason for a lift is to fit a larger tire for more ground clearance. You can put larger tires on right now without a lift. You mentioned the cushy ride on your GX and want to keep it. If you are happy with it don't lift. I know that is going to upset some but lifting is always a compromise. And comes at a cost with longevity and reliability, if you plan on keeping your vehicle for a long time it is going to cost you one way or another.
On a FB group someone from Texas recently said having 500 pounds of corn in the back made it sag and handle poorly. Depends on your suspension. I have the Luxury model with self leveling air bags in the rear and electronic Adaptive Variable Suspension shocks. Couple of weeks ago carried half a ton of lead shot in the back and couldn't tell any difference from an empty load. I absolutely love the AVS and self leveling airbags, I also tow. Heck even my Polaris Ranger Trail Boss has air bags and compressor on the rear.
My 13 Tacoma Baja T|X Edition had factory TRD tuned Bilstein 6112 on the front. They were good at higher speed on washboards. But at real life speeds off road where you can't see more than 20 yards in front on a 2 track not so much. I put Firestone air bags on the rear for towing and I was the "automatic" self leveler. When the suspension gave up the ghost I went with 5100's but more importantly correct leaf packs for my loads, I went with Old Man Emu.
If you want to keep that factory plush ride go with the largest AT tire that will fit in your spare location. With factory hitch that is 31.7" If you go larger then you are going to have to look at a hitch type tire carrier or swing arm. IME they are a real PITA if you use your rig as a DD. And if your wife uses it to get groceries and store runs, or you do, they get old really fast.
Corner weight is also a consideration, take into account both wheels and tires. Mine is a 19 that I picked up in Nov. with 42K on it and 18" wheels. I wanted 17" for a taller sidewall and better tire selection. I went with TRD Pro wheels which are 5 pounds lighter than factory wheels and offset any extra tire weight. Also went with 31.7" tires.
Body on the GX is low hanging fruit to the ground. So did a front bumper chop and got rid of the sidesteps and put on zero offset sliders. Much gooder. The rear bumper and especially the hitch is now the low hanging points. Hopefully the ground will dry out in the next couple of days and I can verify the stinger I need for hooking up the trailer. Pretty sure for the first time in my life I will need a level or a rise stinger, that is low. I also want to keep it somewhat stock looking and not screaming off road bromobile. That ship done sailed for me a long time ago.
Depending on where you go in the UP and if you are with family you likely will not need to do any body cutting. Unless cell phone reception has improved last few years you will want a spare tire though unless you want a REALLY long walk out. I spend Mid Sept. to Mid Nov. in the Arrowhead of Mn. and the Sunset Country of Canada driving 2 tracks. I drop air pressure down to 20-22 psi when running 2 tracks then air them back up at the end of the day before heading back to camp or the cabin. It helps a lot to keep a decent ride off road and not pound your eye teeth down to your piss sack.
If you are still interested in lifting and suspension a really good place to start is with Tinker's Adventure. He is a great resource
A ton to digest here. Thanks for taking the time. I have a ‘22 BlackLine (Nori). I ordered it with Toyo AT3s 265/65/18 and I immediately removed the 3rd row and all the plastic up front which was replaced with a 4Runner TRD aluminum front skid. I also have the NYTOP hybrid hitch/rear bumper, so spare tire space is limiting.
I am toying with the mild lift to upsize tires, move to 17” wheels once the Toyo’s are worn, and also keep my factory steps. I had sliders on my 4R and they were great, but I don’t really want to cut my factory steps or purchase the side skirts from Japan.
I’m on the Eastern side of the lower UP, so Drummond Island is 45 minutes away. I took my 4R which had the Westcott pre-load lift for Fox shocks, plus Eibach rear springs. I think it was an additional 2/1” f/r over the stock TRDP. I also had full skids and they took a few hits. I have not taken the GX on the ferry to Drummond yet. I’m apprehensive with my current setup, also because my novice skills can place me in situations extra clearance would be helpful. Upgrading the driver would be more beneficial.
Here's some catnip for the chat:
Every time I feel ATRAC kick in, I bury the throttle in the carpet. My logic is that Mr.T will make sure I don't spin tires into the abyss, but won't add any throttle when it's needed, so give it max throttle and let the computer dial back as needed. I use a light touch right up until it starts to slip, after which there's nothing to lose in flooring it and hoping for the best.
One of my sketchier moments in this truck was a long hillclimb with ruts and mogal humps while I was towing a trailer. Near the bottom I hung a front tire in the air and felt ATRAC shutter so I mashed the pedal and stayed in it all the way to the top, accompanied by the constant rattle of the traction control. I made it out, so the technique worked in that instance, but it was bad and the consequences of not making it would be dire. I've used the same technique in sand/snow and had doubts if that was really prudent, vs feathering the throttle to keep it from engaging. I grew up driving in snow, often unplowed, so this pedal mashing goes against my instincts.
What's the consensus? Pussyfoot to avoid activating ATRAC, or floor it and let the computers do their thing?
Hiluxforever
SILVER Star
For most of my wheeling if I get more than the minimum wheel spin to activate it, I hop pretty bad (going uphill from a stop) so I try to avoid that but if I have to traverse a horizontal mud hole I will definitely give it the beans to clean the tread as I go through.
