GX460 & GXOR B.S. thread (24 Viewers)

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Never miss an opportunity to use the winch…
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Finally got around to doing a paint correction on our new to us 2017 GX Starfire Pearl. It looked fine in most light as the Starfire Pearl always seems to, but when the sun hit it right it was evident that it needed some love.

For funsies I purchased the new Hercules Forced Rotation DA polisher from Harbor Freight as I had heard good reviews, and found that the clearcoat on the Starfire is VERY hard (this is my opinion, I don't have a lot of experience!) as my Lake Country Orange Pad and Meg's 105 compound wasn't getting a lot of the scratches out.

So I switched to the forced rotation polisher with a microfiber pad, and that really gave me the bite and heat I needed to get the majority of the imperfections out. The next step would be a rotary and wool pad, but I'm not that confident and the results were very good imho. Followed it up with a white pad and Meg's 205, then Mother's CMX ceramic spray. Roughly 6-7 hours into the process.
unless I am on single stage or very soft paint I only use microfiber pads. Make sure its primed, make sure you don't gum it, I blow mine out every couple of panels. I have had very good luck with 105 into 205 on the cutting and polishing microfiber pads from Meguiers, on a DA. I tend to not even need a rotary or to go beyond that point. epscially on trucks that get pin striped and generally used like tools.
 
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unless I am on single stage or very soft paint I only use microfiber pads. Make sure its primed, make sure you don't gum it, I blow mine out every couple of panels. I have had very good luck with 105 into 205 on the cutting and polishing microfiber pads from Meguiers, on a DA. I tend to not even need a rotary or to go beyond that point. epscially on trucks that get pin striped and generally used like tools.

Thanks for the advice on the microfiber pads. I learned a lot from doing paint correction on our 94 Miata with single stage paint, and blow out the pads every few panels like you suggested. I guess I didn't know the microfiber pads had more cutting power then the typical foam pads.

I don't know why but I figured it would be fun to try the Bauer brand pads at Harbor freight. They are so freaking stiff that the contact area is too small for them, and they are extremely sensitive to the angle you hold them at. I understand you have to practice and watch your technique, but the microfiber pads were much better when paired with the forced rotation polisher imho.
 
Thanks for the advice on the microfiber pads. I learned a lot from doing paint correction on our 94 Miata with single stage paint, and blow out the pads every few panels like you suggested. I guess I didn't know the microfiber pads had more cutting power then the typical foam pads.

I don't know why but I figured it would be fun to try the Bauer brand pads at Harbor freight. They are so freaking stiff that the contact area is too small for them, and they are extremely sensitive to the angle you hold them at. I understand you have to practice and watch your technique, but the microfiber pads were much better when paired with the forced rotation polisher imho.
I figure if there are 2 parts of the process I am unwilling to compromise on its going to be pads and compound. I think I had some foam pads for a project where I had extremely soft paint but I watched an AMMO NYC on polishing soft paint where they used a diluted 205 and a polishing microfiber pad. Went that route and haven't looked back.

I had the fortune/misfortune of cutting my teeth so to speak on a 993 before they became a money car. I learned a lot on that car for better or worse.
 
I’ve never done paint polishing/correction but I have a variable speed (0-3500) polisher that I used to polish my airstream. Do you think it would be a good tool for paint correction too with the correct pads and compound?

Just kind of wondering if I should spend any time researching this. I can test the process on my old farm truck before trying the GX.
 
I’ve never done paint polishing/correction but I have a variable speed (0-3500) polisher that I used to polish my airstream. Do you think it would be a good tool for paint correction too with the correct pads and compound?

Just kind of wondering if I should spend any time researching this. I can test the process on my old farm truck before trying the GX.
SO you use a typical rotary polisher but the likelihood of burning up paint is much greater than if you us a DA polisher. Paint polishing is a lot less forgiving than metal as you likely already know.

Its like any other hobby, if you are interested in it go for it, if you are looking only for the outcome just have some one do it. It costs a good chunk of change to get into it. As properly done cutting and polishing is one step of like 5 wash, de-con, clay, polish, protect. If you screw up the first 3 the condition of your paint gets worse not better. I would expect to pay 500-1000 for all the tools and consumables, then learning, practicing, f-ing up, fixing the F up. I like the process of mastering a process and enjoy the outcome. I can't work on other peoples s*** anymore as I get frustrated when they run the freshly coated and polished truck through an automated car wash, undo all the work I just did and don't understand why they paid for the service in the first place.
 
^I feel like if you prep the paint correctly (making sure it is as clean as possible) prior to polishing using a DA polisher, it is pretty darn safe for most users. But there is an investment in time and materials, but very rewarding vs. paying to have it done. But if you have disposable income, pay a pro and never worry again.
 
SO you use a typical rotary polisher but the likelihood of burning up paint is much greater than if you us a DA polisher. Paint polishing is a lot less forgiving than metal as you likely already know.

Its like any other hobby, if you are interested in it go for it, if you are looking only for the outcome just have some one do it. It costs a good chunk of change to get into it. As properly done cutting and polishing is one step of like 5 wash, de-con, clay, polish, protect. If you screw up the first 3 the condition of your paint gets worse not better. I would expect to pay 500-1000 for all the tools and consumables, then learning, practicing, f-ing up, fixing the F up. I like the process of mastering a process and enjoy the outcome. I can't work on other peoples s*** anymore as I get frustrated when they run the freshly coated and polished truck through an automated car wash, undo all the work I just did and don't understand why they paid for the service in the first place.
Thanks for the excellent reply. That makes perfect sense. I am a person that loves to learn a new skill but I don't know that I have the patience for the entire process as I don't find paint polishing that interesting. I just want the outcome so I think I'll follow your advise and take it to a pro. My GX is black too so that is going to be less forgiving anyway.

I've only had it done once but I distinctly remember my 3-4 year old car (that I didn't take great care of the paint ) looking better than new.
 
Thanks for the excellent reply. That makes perfect sense. I am a person that loves to learn a new skill but I don't know that I have the patience for the entire process as I don't find paint polishing that interesting. I just want the outcome so I think I'll follow your advise and take it to a pro. My GX is black too so that is going to be less forgiving anyway.

I've only had it done once but I distinctly remember my 3-4 year old car (that I didn't take great care of the paint ) looking better than new.
Thanks! If you want to indulge yourself in the learning, I really like the Ammo nyc videos from 5-6 years back on his techniques.

It grew old for me when my in laws asked me to do it and to do touch up, spent 2 days working on all the touch up sanding and correction. 2 months later she took the car through the automatic wash, absolutely wrecked the paint (black ford explore ST), that paint was so soft it was unnerving as hell to do the correction on the first time. Ford clear is soft as hell and thin.
 
^I feel like if you prep the paint correctly (making sure it is as clean as possible) prior to polishing using a DA polisher, it is pretty darn safe for most users. But there is an investment in time and materials, but very rewarding vs. paying to have it done. But if you have disposable income, pay a pro and never worry again.
Yeah DA is forgiving on *most* paint. Yota paint seems to be pretty hard for the most part. Ford paint on the other hand, soft as baby s***.
 
Yeah DA is forgiving on *most* paint. Yota paint seems to be pretty hard for the most part. Ford paint on the other hand, soft as baby s***.
DA is the least abrasive method for a machine. Start with the least abrasive pad and compound they make, then work your way up to remove the imperfections.
 
DA is the least abrasive method for a machine. Start with the least abrasive pad and compound they make, then work your way up to remove the imperfections.
Thats not to say you can't get yourself in trouble with a DA, pressure, travel speed and dwell time also matter. Understanding how much heat is generated also matters a lot.
 
Thats not to say you can't get yourself in trouble with a DA, pressure, travel speed and dwell time also matter. Understanding how much heat is generated also matters a lot.
Yes, that why all the pros told me to do it by hand when I was learning to do body work.
 
Yes, that why all the pros told me to do it by hand when I was learning to do body work.
I prefer to just ruin someone else's paint 🤣 all joking aside that sounds really tedious. Another option is just to start with a grid pattern move quickly, lots of water in a spray bottle, a loaded pad, and turn the machine down all the way and see what it gets ya.
 
Here's a good conversation starter.

What trend, or mod, or market gap on GXs bugs you the most?

For me its 2 things. The rear C/D pillar molle pannels on the exterior of the rig. I don't think there is harm in these, I just don't like tons of s*** bolted to the outside of trucks in general.
2. Would be fuel storage. I don't think I have found a single way to store fuel in or out of a GX that I trust. Looking at fuel bags now, but I wish there was a low pro and non invasive way to carry fuel when I need to.
 
I prefer to just ruin someone else's paint 🤣 all joking aside that sounds really tedious. Another option is just to start with a grid pattern move quickly, lots of water in a spray bottle, a loaded pad, and turn the machine down all the way and see what it gets ya.
Well it also depends on the paint. Old school lacquer was so soft that that was often the best route. Now some of the modern enamels are so hard you practically need a flap sander
 
Well it also depends on the paint. Old school lacquer was so soft that that was often the best route. Now some of the modern enamels are so hard you practically need a flap sander
I've polished everything from single stage to probably every brand of modern domestic, even todays paint varies hugely. I have found fords to be the softest (like insanely soft, I was lucky to have a burner panel on my first ford project, GM is all over the place but is pretty brittle, dodge to be pretty run of the middle, easy to correct but not terribly soft, and Toyota has been on the harder end.
 
Here's a good conversation starter.

What trend, or mod, or market gap on GXs bugs you the most?

For me its 2 things. The rear C/D pillar molle pannels on the exterior of the rig. I don't think there is harm in these, I just don't like tons of s*** bolted to the outside of trucks in general.
2. Would be fuel storage. I don't think I have found a single way to store fuel in or out of a GX that I trust. Looking at fuel bags now, but I wish there was a low pro and non invasive way to carry fuel when I need to.
If you don't have a few thousand dollars in brand name cargo boxes, containers, traction boards, and awnings attached to your truck at all times are you even #overlanding ?
 
If you don't have a few thousand dollars in brand name cargo boxes, containers, traction boards, and awnings attached to your truck at all times are you even #overlanding ?
I am cool with whatever people want to do to make themselves happy. Buttttt.......its gotten out of hand with the if you don't have x you aren't gonna be able to do y, gatekeeping it. Strapping an axe ( a barley useful, often misused, and high consequence tool) to the outside of your window seems like a waste.
 
I love stuff, mods, and add-ons but I think a lot of people get so lost in the sauce with all of it that they end up forever planning their build and not actually driving their car or truck. Or they get stuck in some halfway point, like having heavy springs with no extra weight, that it's less fun than if they just threw some better tires on and drove it stock for a while.
 

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