My 06 GX has a bad case of the yota lean (towards driver). I originally attributed it to the 165k mile old suspension component, but O changed the shocks, springs and UCAs out to 2-3” Ironman performance nitrogas and JBA UCAs. That in mind I have not had an alignment yet. It was perfect at first, but now the front left is sagging again. I measure a 1” discrepancy between the front driver and passenger sides. Its considerably more noticeabe on long highway turns as well with more body roll towards driver on right turns than passenger on left turns. Are there any better options to fix this than just placing the spacers?
GX lean
- Thread starter GXOutlaw
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- #2
Also, my LCA bushings are near shot. Could these be contributing to the issue? I’ve been looking at options and it seems like replacing the whole unit is better/easier than just swapping bushings. Seems like its between MOOG, Super Pro then Total Chaos, in order of cheapest to most expensive.
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- #3
I found part of the problem was that the drivers side front sway bar bolts broke. After removing the sway bar it was more level. Today after finally having time to change out my rear shocks to the ironman nitros that I bought, well the lean is back. The front discrepancy is about 1/2-1” Lower on the left and the rear is about 1-1.5” lower on the left. If I stand on the rear passenger side step my 190lbs evens everything out. Are the rear ironman springs dorection? I.e. does it matter which side they go on?
On mine I think I added 1/2 or 3/8 of an inch
( adjustable coil ) to the drivers side front and it evened it up close enough.
My old lift came with extra spacers.
It’s difficult to get it all even and
It’s probably never going to be perfect.
Do you have kdss? If so, you’re supposed to crack the actuator screws just a smidge (little box about halfway between the front and rear on the driver side of the undercarriage) while installing new springs and shocks. At least, icon says you’re supposed to.
the shop that installed my lift kit didn’t do so, and it introduced about a 1.75” difference from hub to fender on the passenger front.
Had another shop by me “recalibrate” the kdss and put on new bushings for the front sway bar. Not sure exactly what their recalibration procedure entailed, but it sounds like the standard one where you crack the actuator screws a bit and raise the drivers side rear tire.
drove about 100 miles since then, and it’s dead level.
the shop that installed my lift kit didn’t do so, and it introduced about a 1.75” difference from hub to fender on the passenger front.
Had another shop by me “recalibrate” the kdss and put on new bushings for the front sway bar. Not sure exactly what their recalibration procedure entailed, but it sounds like the standard one where you crack the actuator screws a bit and raise the drivers side rear tire.
drove about 100 miles since then, and it’s dead level.
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- #6
No KDSS on mine. I do have the sway bar off and I wonder how much that affects it. Plan is to get an alignment today (I’m thinking Firestone lifetime)... amazon has 1/2” spacers and I think I’ll throw 1 of those on when I reinstall the sway bar (gotta fist the broken bolts). I also bought some superpro sway bar links which are adjustable. Maybe that’ll help.
I’ve run with and with out the front ( on right now ) no rear sway bar, doesn’t seem to make a difference.
I also put about 1500 miles on mine before i readjusted the ride height, let the springs settle.
I also put about 1500 miles on mine before i readjusted the ride height, let the springs settle.
