Builds Grumble Deluxe (9 Viewers)

[repentsinner]

Thanks @NeverGiveUpYota and @AussieHJCruza!

The oil gauge has shown low (at the lower of the two ticks) I think since we added the aftermarket turbo. My theory is that with the additional flow through the turbo there isn't enough resistance in the system to build more pressure? I replaced the oil pump gears when I was in fixing the timing gear cover leak a number of years ago, so I know for sure the pump is good. Ambient temps are generally 10-35C here, and oil temps in the 100-120C range I believe. I'm running 10W-30 at the moment, but I've not explored heavier weights. What do you run in AU? Can I just keep increasing the oil weight until the pressure registers in the middle of the range?

And the pic of the power steering is indeed a leak, all of the off road rattled the locknut loose from the adjustment screw. Fortunately snugging it back down stopped the leak. That was the extent of the issues that developed en route.

All in all I'm super pleased with how the vehicle performed on this trip given the abuse we threw, had less mechanical issues than the 70 series I was with

@NeverGiveUpYota if you have a way to cut the side panels send me a PM and I'll figure out how to get you the .dxf files for them. Have been pretty happy with the "murder shovel", it came with a sand anchor that I've only used so far to pitch a hammock with. I covered it with a sheath to keep it from murdering things on accident inside the vehicle. I don't love the quickfist mounts - they do ok for the hi-lift jack handle, but they're not stout enough to keep the shovel in place very well.

Krazy Beaver Shovel

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Shovel Sheath-Latigo Leather

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[repentsinner]

Also a first cut of the overhead video is now up

 

[repentsinner]

And finally while I'm at it, many thanks as always to @orangefj45 and @Onur for all of their assistance over the years. Would not be able to run trips like this without their help.

 

[orangefj45]

Watching that video makes me want to head south .....

 

[georgebj60]

What a great thread. I'm following. Stunning views in that video.

I've done the same conversion, sans the turbo. I wonder if the oil pressure is a 2H thing. I see so many threads on the issue, and the other day I was driving my truck in 22°C temps, and this is what the gauge read at idle. It rose up to the first bar by about 1800 rpms, and the low oil cutoff never shut things down. I'm using diesel 15W40 oil.

 

[repentsinner]

Holy hell @georgebj60 how are your gauges so _clean_?!? Oh right, PNW and no dust

I'm speculating on the low oil pressure cutoff switch. I know there's a cable dangling loose in that area, and if I plug it in I don't think the engine runs. I'll have to trace it out (and maybe pull the sensor) to confirm that it is what I think it is. Right hand side, way at the back of the block?

I'm contemplating a run up to Vancouver in the next few weeks to check in on my folks, would be great to see your setup!

 

[georgebj60]

Holy hell @georgebj60 how are your gauges so _clean_?!? Oh right, PNW and no dust

I'm speculating on the low oil pressure cutoff switch. I know there's a cable dangling loose in that area, and if I plug it in I don't think the engine runs. I'll have to trace it out (and maybe pull the sensor) to confirm that it is what I think it is. Right hand side, way at the back of the block?

I'm contemplating a run up to Vancouver in the next few weeks to check in on my folks, would be great to see your setup!

Well, truth be told, aside from polishing all the plastic gauge lenses when I did my diesel swap, I don't actually drive the thing. It mostly sits in my garage. On the off-chance I can steal an hour away from other things I try to work on it bit by bit. That's why I follow threads like yours, it's great to see people actually getting out and using their rigs.

And oh yeah, if you ever find your way up to Vancouver, beers are on me.

 

[AussieHJCruza]

@repentsinner my HJ47 gets 15W40 mineral year-round. Ambient here ranges from -5c to 42c in a typical year. (She would virtually never get started below 10c or thereabouts and not often run much in the heat either, I'm getting a bit soft and like A/C)

 

[repentsinner]

Good to know @AussieHJCruza, I'll try 15W40 next time I change the oil. Thanks! And I'm jealous of your AC.. It's going to be a mission to finish it out on this thing.

 

[georgebj60]

Sounds like the oil pressure cutoff is using the fuel control relay to shut down the engine. Here is a screenshot of another thread of a similar issue. And location is the RH side, closest to the firewall as I understand it.

 

[AussieHJCruza]

Good to know @AussieHJCruza, I'll try 15W40 next time I change the oil. Thanks! And I'm jealous of your AC.. It's going to be a mission to finish it out on this thing.

My 47 doesn't have AC, so she doesn't see a lot of hot weather use the raptor gets that job instead

 

[WSOPgold2012]

Watching that video makes me want to head south .....

This Xs bazzzzillion

 

[repentsinner]

Photos from Baja finally uploaded!

2021 Baja

184 new items added to shared album

photos.app.goo.gl

And I managed to get a good chunk of cabinetry and wiring done this weekend while quarantining in a fantastic workshop (you might recognize it @Rugy)

Had to modify the Tuffy console because the VX-5000 head unit isn't standard DIN size although it's close. Was a bit of a mess getting brackets made to get everything mounted, but it fits well just under the security door and the angle of the faceplate seems to match well to the angle of the console. The DIN opening doesn't seem that well secured in the console, I nibbled out a chunk of it before realizing that the rest of it would just bend out of the way. Not super impressed with that part of the design, Tuffy.

While I was at it I finally got around to making some more permanent spacers with rivnuts to hold the console to my modified seat rail contraption which makes installation and removal a lot easier - fortunately I made removal hard again by integrating the remote head unit cable into the console. Hooray for proprietary cables.

Got an antenna tuned to GMRS temporarily attached to the can carrier via a piece of scrap square tubing as a mast - will like to eventually get this on the tire carrier side and just above the roofline for better reception.

Driver's rear cargo panel perforated and countersunk to receive way too many electronics.

Passenger reinstalled with black oxide flat head stainless hardware for a way cleaner install than it's been for the past two years, although note to self these should be M6x25 not M6x20. Oops. I'm impressed that all the mounting holes actually lined up, I didn't think I'd gotten them all.

 

[repentsinner]

Routed some recesses in the back of the panel to allow wiring to pass between the panel and the support verticals without getting squished, but didn't get the pockets deep enough or in the right place vertically to not interfere with some other electronics placements. This is what happens when you prototype during production

Fab mostly complete and ready to start assembly.

Lamp install and wiring to the shelf bracket. Note to self, 1/8" stock for the bracket would probably be fine next time Also note to self: it's possible to gang the ground for two LED strip lights, but a superbrightleds dimmer has a weird decoupled output ground so need to gang at the output of the dimmer as well or your second strip probably won't work.

Who designs a recessed mount point to accept an M4 screw but not a tool for an M4 nut? Blue Sea Systems does!

Assembled and ready to install!

 

[repentsinner]

And done (for now)! Still needs anodize (along with every other aluminum piece I've fabricated for this thing) but I'm pretty happy with how this turned out.

* A 30A sub fuse panel fed with #8 welding cable installed in the back of the vehicle should be sufficient for future power needs (maybe? need to research solar some more)
* GMRS/UHF radio body and 20A 24V=>12V DC/DC buck converter installed out of the way
* 3x 24V "cigarette sockets" installed (well two installed and one more on the way) for dedicated USB-C power, fridge power, and Milwaukee M12/M18 charger power (or whatever else might need aux power)
* Switch panel for lights (white and red switchable cabin lighting) and to cut off aux power and whatever else might come up
* Shelf for phones, water, glasses, etc while camped

Now it's time to go back to Baja and test everything

 

[BMValentine]

Well done. Looks really good. I am going to be redoing mine in a little while and will definitely take some design cues from your project.

 

[repentsinner]

Highlight clip from the last journey: San Diego => Vancouver => Gonzaga Bay => San Pedro Martir:

 

[repentsinner]

Finally got around to fixing the contactor for the compressor with one that hopefully doesn't stick closed all the time. This wiring is kind of gross though, some fixed 12-10AWG on the pressure switch as though you might consider running the compressor directly through it, and fixed 24-22AWG control lines on the new contactor. One of these days maybe I'll find the right combo of parts that makes this less odious.

Speaking of less odious, see that weatherpack connector on there? Lets get rid of it!

 

[repentsinner]

After trying to jam yet another cable harness through the firewall I got fed up fishing around under the dash and decided to put in a low current signal bus. 24 circuits through the firewall and 10 circuits to the driver side rear cargo area should give me enough period correct signal routing to clean up the rats nest of wire that's been pulled in over the past few years.

I'd originally thought to use weatherpack connectors but then found the Delphi GT-150 series. Higher density than weatherpack at some small hit to current carrying capacity, they seem well sealed and a somewhat modern design. Inside the vehicle, Molex Mini-Fit Jr. is even higher density.

Waytek minimums are a bit of a pig, but they've definitely got the best prices on this stuff. I also used Del City to fill in any backordered items.

 

[repentsinner]

Sleeved harnesses being assembled.

There isn't a 24 position GT-150 so I split into a 16+8 position. Recommend doing offset connectors (e.g., 16+8) vs symmetric (e.g., 12+12) so you don't plug them into the wrong things if everything is disconnected.

The GT-150 doesn't go together as nicely as I'd hoped - it's really difficult to install some of the terminals on 22AWG wire as the wire isn't rigid enough to push on to seat the terminal and it takes a _lot_ of force to get the terminal plus seal installed. Using the terminal removal tool from the back to press on the crimp helps a lot. It seems like this is housing-dependent - some of them are easy, others required the removal tool to seat every terminal.

The removal system also leaves something to be desired compared to the weatherpack and Mini-Fit Jr - it's like picking a lock trying to get the retention tab moved to get the terminal out, and is definitely not straightforward given how much friction is in the system. I hope I never have to take these things significantly apart.

Having said that, I think I still prefer the GT-150 over weatherpack for its higher-density design, and separate TPAs. The integrated weatherpack TPAs always seem backwards to me.

Anyway, also highly recommend an adjustable-length wire stripper like the OK Industries ST-550 for stuff like this - set the depth once and strip a ton of conductors all the same. Same for ratcheting, multi-stage crimpers with locators (aka terminal holders). It would have been a serious pain to crimp the seal and wire separately. Get the right crimper and if you don't think you're going to use it again, re-sell it on eBay. Cheap crimpers suck.

I used a weatherproof flex sleeve that's sort of like a rubberized techflex that I found at McMaster. It's pretty cool, but definitely hard to install if you're close to capacity. In hindsight I probably should have gone up a diameter for both of these bundles.