Grr...stripped manifold bolts..ideas?

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May 5, 2007
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Location
TN
Trying to install some EMS midpipes on my '99 LC.
I've sprayed the bolts with PB blaster for the past 2 days.

Well, I got 3 out of 6 off. Now they are starting to strip and round off the more I try.

Anyone have any suggestions or tricks? These have been the most stubborn bolts I've ever encountered.
 
Exhaust bolts bing the suck, but I have always had good luck with a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF. Then you need air...An air gun will have the torque to loosen it on the first go at it. But, your already past that point....

I would try and heat them up and use a bolt extractor socket on an air gun...or just get a dremel and cut the things off and get new bolts.
 
I broke a few bolts when installing a new header. I needed to get a new nut, weld it into the remaining stud, and then back them out.

Stripped nuts are tough... the extractor sockets only made things worse for me. If you've still got the factory studs, you will find that the tip of them fit a different size (hex socket, I think??) than the main nut... That helped me out a lot!

Good sockets and a strong ratcheting breaker bar are key... at this point, welding a new nut might be the best bet... check you tube!
 
I like the dremel idea. It may come to that.


I'm about to go see if a hex will fit on the end. I do have the factory studs and nuts.
 
I broke a few bolts when installing a new header. I needed to get a new nut, weld it into the remaining stud, and then back them out.

Stripped nuts are tough... the extractor sockets only made things worse for me. If you've still got the factory studs, you will find that the tip of them fit a different size (hex socket, I think??) than the main nut... That helped me out a lot!

Good sockets and a strong ratcheting breaker bar are key... at this point, welding a new nut might be the best bet... check you tube!

Are you saying that I can unscrew the studs? From the manifold?
 
The studs can unscrew from the head. Each stud has a nut, which is probably what you have stripped. The exposed end of the stud can be unscrewed as well, but it is much smaller. Nonetheless, it might help if you can fit a wrench to it. It has been a while, but I recall it was a very small wrench .. maybe 7mm or 8mm.
 
All I can say is be patient.. I broke my last bolt after it was smooth sailing threading until the last 10% of the bolt.
 
^ This. Get a new stud and a new nut. Or a set. Use anti-seize when re-installing on both.
 
I wish. I heard those are even harder to install. That's the reason I don't have them

It actually wasn't that bad;) Taking my time, it took a Sat and Sun to get the headers and the DT exhaust installed. The worst part was at the end of the DS install, getting into all the nooks and crannies with every combination of 14mm socket, wrench, and extension I owned to tighten everything down:p
 
When I installed my DT Catback we (Cruiser100 and I) rounded out my bolts, they had forming into a solid block of rust and mud. We cut the head off with a dremel and used a chisel to knock off the remaining portion of the head. That allowed the shaft or threaded part of the bolt to slide through. Apply anti-seize to the bolts when you re-install. It will prevent any rusting or freezing of the bolts if you ever need to remove again.
 
I always cut and replace any exhaust hardware when possible. Especially between flanges. It's much faster on re-assembly as well vs. the old rusty junk. Obviously there is some hardware that just has to give and can't be cut such as at the head, everything else is faster cut and replaced.
 
I am about to try using the dremel to cut my nuts off. :-0

I usually use a 4" cut of wheel but perhaps your nuts are not as large as mine ;-)
 
Geeeeez

Got it.

Thank everyone for the suggestions. The last one was being a buggar until the stud broke off. So I dealt with that.
Now have the ems midpipes and no CEL this far.

image-4244477980.webp
 
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