As they say...with a little help from my friends...most of whom I've never met...
I've had problems with my transfer case for nearly 2 years. As explained in this post.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=99051&highlight=grinding
Good solid test today in the cascades, it's fixed. Stays in gear & no grinding! Still probably needs a rebuild (since it has 297,750 miles on it...but that's a bigger job for another day.
What did I do?
Replaced the detent spring and balls. (This was probably why it was popping out of 4W since I bought it.)
Replaced the bushings referred to in the above thread.
Checked all engine mounts/tranny mounts - all OK ('cause I replaced them a few years ago.)
Relieved tranny hump.
Cut slots in the inner rubber shift boot, to reduce/eliminate resistance when in L.
Mod'd the shift gate to allow 2L.
All of the above is good, but probably a "mistake" on my part 2 years ago started the whole thing. The transfer was popping out of 4W, and I asked some local guys about it. One of them mentioned that theres an adjustable linkage...so I fiddled with that until it stayed in 4W. What I ended up doing was shortening the adjustable linkage. This did help it stay in 4W. Had I just replaced the detent ball/spring then, that would probably have done the fix. I don't know this for sure, but based on posts here on mud, this is my best guess.
Since I completely removed the shift linkage to replace the bushings (and make the 2L mod) I looked carefully at the FSM and the adjustable linkage, and guessed that shortening it had caused the 4L grinding. I think that under high torque it was "slipping" into neutral. I lengthened it a bunch, when wheeling, and all is good.
As far as I can remember, when I shortened the linkage 2 years ago, I shortened it by 4 complete revolutions. This time I lengthened it by 6 revolutions. No real logic involved, just seemed like old worn parts needed to be in a different spot...
If you decide to mess with the adjustable linkage, keep the following in mind.
First note that the linkage has a locknut on the adjustment shaft. Loosen the locknut. Then remove the nut that's on top of the linkage. This allows the linkage to drop down, so you can turn the linkage how-ever many turns you want. Then reconnect the linkage (which has alignment flats on it) and reinstall the nut on top. Last, tighten the lock nut. Look carefully with a flashlight, and this will all make sense.
I've had problems with my transfer case for nearly 2 years. As explained in this post.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=99051&highlight=grinding
Good solid test today in the cascades, it's fixed. Stays in gear & no grinding! Still probably needs a rebuild (since it has 297,750 miles on it...but that's a bigger job for another day.
What did I do?
Replaced the detent spring and balls. (This was probably why it was popping out of 4W since I bought it.)
Replaced the bushings referred to in the above thread.
Checked all engine mounts/tranny mounts - all OK ('cause I replaced them a few years ago.)
Relieved tranny hump.
Cut slots in the inner rubber shift boot, to reduce/eliminate resistance when in L.
Mod'd the shift gate to allow 2L.
All of the above is good, but probably a "mistake" on my part 2 years ago started the whole thing. The transfer was popping out of 4W, and I asked some local guys about it. One of them mentioned that theres an adjustable linkage...so I fiddled with that until it stayed in 4W. What I ended up doing was shortening the adjustable linkage. This did help it stay in 4W. Had I just replaced the detent ball/spring then, that would probably have done the fix. I don't know this for sure, but based on posts here on mud, this is my best guess.
Since I completely removed the shift linkage to replace the bushings (and make the 2L mod) I looked carefully at the FSM and the adjustable linkage, and guessed that shortening it had caused the 4L grinding. I think that under high torque it was "slipping" into neutral. I lengthened it a bunch, when wheeling, and all is good.
As far as I can remember, when I shortened the linkage 2 years ago, I shortened it by 4 complete revolutions. This time I lengthened it by 6 revolutions. No real logic involved, just seemed like old worn parts needed to be in a different spot...
If you decide to mess with the adjustable linkage, keep the following in mind.
First note that the linkage has a locknut on the adjustment shaft. Loosen the locknut. Then remove the nut that's on top of the linkage. This allows the linkage to drop down, so you can turn the linkage how-ever many turns you want. Then reconnect the linkage (which has alignment flats on it) and reinstall the nut on top. Last, tighten the lock nut. Look carefully with a flashlight, and this will all make sense.
