Got alignment done after OME 2.5", have a couple ???
- Thread starter LFD2037
- Start date
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You can start by changing the phasing of the front DS. I've never tried it but it has been reported to sometimes help. That one is free, then move on to u-joints.
A DC shaft is only an option if things are lined up correctly. If you know someone who has a shaft you could try it but it's kind of pricey as a shot in the dark for your problem.
A DC shaft is only an option if things are lined up correctly. If you know someone who has a shaft you could try it but it's kind of pricey as a shot in the dark for your problem.
Lock CDL and remove front shaft to road test. If vibs are gone, its the front shaft. Mark the two halves before sliding them apart if you're going to try re-phasing them. Then you can put it back if it feels worse.
This is the reason why I'm only running 2 deg caster, I'm afraid of trying for more and causing a problem.
This is the reason why I'm only running 2 deg caster, I'm afraid of trying for more and causing a problem.
LFD2037
TEXAS LEXUS!
- Thread starter
- #25
Vibration was due to Discount screwing up the tire balance AGAIN!!! Also, I updated OP w/post TJM 2.5* caster alignment numbers. Here they are!
Added the TJM 2.5* rubber bushings & they changed caster readings by 4*.
DS before -2* DS after +2* = 4* increase
PS before -1.9* PS after +2.1* = 4* increase
I've read soooooo many threads of people doing caster correction & not getting an alignment afterwards. People think they need 3* correction so they get 3* bushings & so on. Well, that's not the case just like a couple guys have said but haven't seen too much hard proof. Well here it is. I hope this helps people in the future & doesn't add to their confusion! Thanks for everybody's input on this thread. It all helped & confused me but that's all my fault.
Added the TJM 2.5* rubber bushings & they changed caster readings by 4*.
DS before -2* DS after +2* = 4* increase
PS before -1.9* PS after +2.1* = 4* increase
I've read soooooo many threads of people doing caster correction & not getting an alignment afterwards. People think they need 3* correction so they get 3* bushings & so on. Well, that's not the case just like a couple guys have said but haven't seen too much hard proof. Well here it is. I hope this helps people in the future & doesn't add to their confusion! Thanks for everybody's input on this thread. It all helped & confused me but that's all my fault.
So, wait, you didn't have a vibration before the bushings but after installing them you did. How did the tires change balance during that process?
FWIW I think you're going to have a hard time keeping those particular Hankooks balanced in general. That was a common theme of the reviews I read about them a while ago, and one of the reasons I went with their ATMs which I've been more or less pleased with on two other trucks besides my 80.
FWIW I think you're going to have a hard time keeping those particular Hankooks balanced in general. That was a common theme of the reviews I read about them a while ago, and one of the reasons I went with their ATMs which I've been more or less pleased with on two other trucks besides my 80.
LFD2037
TEXAS LEXUS!
- Thread starter
- #28
I got the tires rebalanced, drove the one mile home and then changed bushings. Just got back from Discount Tire. They finally road force balanced them and went from 60 grams of weight to about 15 grams, in different locations. The installers are extremely awful when it comes to balancing tires. I ALWAYS have to go back 3 times until they'll road force and that's when they finally get it right. As far as reviews on the tires, I read just the opposite as you. I read a lot saying they balanced with very little weight. Also, when people say their tires won't balance I automatically blame it on the installation. Every single tire on the market these days will balance if the installer knows what they're doing/put forth the effort!
Computer matching is an additional charge beyond normal mount and balance as it typically requires breaking the tire down again, sometimes more than once. Additionally not all DTC locations have the machine.
I'll leave it at that, but suffice it to say I know a little something about the co.
Glad things are all better now.
I'll leave it at that, but suffice it to say I know a little something about the co.
Glad things are all better now.
This is partly true. I've been installing tires for 10+ years. Different companies use different molding processes (classic clam shell or press molding) causing some tires to be heavier in certain areas, especially all-terrain/mud-terrain tires. Match the heaviest part of a s***e molded tire with the heaviest part of the wheel and the wheel/tire will balance horribly. There is a way on the balancer to find the heaviest part of the wheel and the heaviest part of the tire to get optimum balance. The best molding processes are Michelin and Pirelli to my knowledge (might be some more companies starting to catch on) but they aren't known for making aggressive tread patterns.
Sometimes certain tires just plain suck
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