Goose Gear Alternatives

[BaseCamperHQ]

I have it as well, love it and would buy it again

I mounted ARB roller drawers on them

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I’m looking to do something very similar here. I currently have (1) ARB rdrf945 and was thinking about mounting it directly on the driver side after removing the 3rd row completely. Then possibly only building 1/2 a base plate for the passenger side. Based on your experience shown here do you think this is a worthy approach or do you suggest a full baseplate such as GG?

 

[skey44]

Pretty happy with what I have so far. Know this has been done before. Have a few more plans, but darn I wish I had this setup on my last trip! Got in in my driveway and I think the flat sleeping floor is gonna be a game changer. Only not up to par material is the 2x10 pine, but it really shouldn’t see any weather. May paint it later. Ran out of carpet for the sleep extension. There’s about 70” of platform as this is the most I could get with my seat in the driving position and accounting for the “help you out” feature where the seat slides back a few more inches. I left the 60% seat side in and the sleep extension just nestles in perfectly on top using the rear most 2x10 from the rear box as gap support. Needs some details now like tie downs. Also need to affix the plate to the cargo area and box to the plate. I’m just leaving it unattached for now in case I decide I want to make some changes. It’s all a pretty snug fit and heavy. If I was to take one more step could have used glued together 1/2” marine grade plywood as vertical supports instead of 2x10, but the 2x10 was just so easy. Will tie cooler down before I leave it back there driving

 

[r2m]

Is it flat all the way through to the second row seat? Looks like a slight incline when in your photo.

 

[Velvet Pants]

I ended up DIYing a rear plate out of 1/2" Baltic birch. It was 49 bucks and a few hours of time. I get the convenience of just bolting a GG in, but 650+ bucks is insane. Their stuff is just 1/2" Baltic birch with bed liner sprayed on it, fer chrissakes.

I'd liked to have made a rear plate out of polypropylene honeycomb. Econcore supplies this honeycomb to many manufacturers of finished panels like Plascore, Renolit, Thermhex, etc. This would be the lightest way to go, and it'd be totally immune to moisture. Some panel makers like Renolit add a grippy textured surface too.

Adding threaded inserts to honeycomb panels gets more complicated (but not impossible) though.

Too bad Airstream got an exclusivity deal on TransCore panels made by Ridge Corp. This stuff is a wood substitute panel made with a core of Nomaco HercuLean (extruded structural foam) that has the screw retention properties of wood. Maybe Nomaco sells HercuLean to other panel makers?

Probably a lot work to save a couple dozen pounds, but it grates me to expend payload capacity on a cargo room floor plate...

 

[r2m]

Absolutely agree with all the added weight of bed/drawer systems. I'm sure some of the seasoned readers have seen where I want to use an aluminum pallet as a base, put drawers in the space were the forklift tangs go, and add some extruded T slot rails for configurable hold-downs.
They are great for a light and easy to work with frame work. They're very light, floor capacity of 6,000 lbs, and easy to modify. Yeah, they are in the neighborhood of $300.00, and just going with wood would be a lot more cost effective, but a lot of the work is done for you and compared to the special GX/4R built ones, it's a whole lot cheaper!
Here's a link to just one pallet option: Pallets | Metal Pallets | Aluminum Pallets - GlobalIndustrial.com - https://www.globalindustrial.com/g/storage/pallets/aluminum-galvanized/aluminum-four-way-pallet
I also agree with using corrugated polypropylene! You can get it in almost any thickness from 1/16" to 1" and many colors! it's also easy to work with. But your are correct about fastening them together. The best is if you can get L channels to do the joints.

 

[skey44]

Is it flat all the way through to the second row seat? Looks like a slight incline when in your photo.

There is a slight incline from the rear deck to the front of the sleep extension.

 

[skey44]

Ready to try it out. Stealth camp with 3yo

 

[skey44]

Approved by the tiny boss.

 

[Hammeredsole]

Screw GooseGear. I am making a single sided drawer, because I want to retain the passenger side 3rd row seat. I emailed them inquiring about buying the 3rd row front rail hardware, and they responded like I was trying to steal a trade secret, and that they "only sell it as a complete system", even though it's plainly obvious there must be some adapters used on the front seat rails. I have the IronMan 4x4 drawer hardware on the way, which will hopefully solve the issue of the angled seat bracket rails.

I am using a 34x21x10.5" drawer cabinet, with 32" 500lb sliders. My intent is to make a locking drawer for sensitive items and the standard recovery stuff which I always have in the vehicle, as well as making a worktop surface and a drawer I can stand on to access the roof.