Good Mountain Bike?

[SR.GRINGO]

I sold my bike when I moved to Mexico 5 years back. Ready for a Mountain bike again. Need something strong I am 6'4" 240 Plan on pavement riding, some sand, dirt/mud trails for sure. I do like to jump...used to have the problem of bending my handle bars. There is not very good support down here so it needs to be pretty reliable. My last one was a cannondale F800 it had a funky 1 shock set up in the front. I have no problem buying last years model. Probably don't want to spend more than $1,500. So any good out of the box brands to recomend?

 

[Fast Eddy]

Redline Monocog. Cheap, reliable, nearly indestructable, as close to zero maintenance as you can get, probably less likely to get stolen that a high-zoot full-suspension bike. You can get them with 29" wheels, but for a big kid, I'd recommend standard 26" wheels for reliability.

$400-$500 via google: redline monocog - Google Search

 

[cary]

Cruiser over to MTBR and you will get some more responses. I would suggest you start with Specialized.

 

[OregonCruzer]

Gunnar Cycles USA

Excellent bike- waterford Cromoly frame. I have the model from two years ago. Comes with an excellent gruppo too, (XT and LX Shimano). I would greatly avoid any aluminum framed bicycle. They ride like s***.

 

[cary]

Gunnar Cycles USA

Excellent bike- waterford Cromoly frame. I have the model from two years ago. Comes with an excellent gruppo too, (XT and LX Shimano). I would greatly avoid any aluminum framed bicycle. They ride like s***.

1) The frame alone will run him $900, leaving no money for his budget.
2) Gunnar frames are not cromoloy.
3) The material a frame is made out of has far less effect on the ride than the design. You can make any material ride well or like crap.

 

[Fast Eddy]

1) The frame alone will run him $900, leaving no money for his budget.
2) Gunnar frames are not cromoloy.
3) The material a frame is made out of has far less effect on the ride than the design. You can make any material ride well or like crap.

1) If his budget is $1500 and a Gunnar frame is $800, I calculate $700 "for his budget".
2) Gunnar doesn't make frames out of anything but Chromo. Gunnar Cycles USA
3) That's just not true. There's no aluminum that will have a compliant ride like Reynolds 853 chromo, Colombus Zona or your other favorite double butted, lightweight steel.

I've had dozens of bikes, and ridden dozens that I didn't own. Aluminum rides like crap. It can climb great, and it works great for a suspension frame where you want the frame stiff. Scandium can be made good enough so it doesn't rattle your teeth out, but it's pretty rare and expensive and still not as nice as 853.

I would run fast and far away from any of the Specialized M2 or M4 hardtails, unless you want to pound your back into mush.

Look for a deal on a used Jamis Dragon. They're the best Taiwan-made frames. I got one of the older 853 steel ones for $400 a while ago. They've been making them out of 631 lately, which is ok, but not as light as 853. Here's a great example on ebay, 29er, 853 steel, disc & rim brake mounts, $350 (now).

29er Mountain Bike Frame 853 Steel 19 inch Jamis Dragon - eBay (item 120219754483 end time Feb-13-08 20:44:23 PST)

 

[OregonCruzer]

1) The frame alone will run him $900, leaving no money for his budget.
2) Gunnar frames are not cromoloy.
3) The material a frame is made out of has far less effect on the ride than the design. You can make any material ride well or like crap.

The nice thing about gunnar is that they are an "out-of-the-box" bike--you aren't just buying a frame. I've broken two trek frames and seen some spectacular aluminum framed failures. I will buy nothing but chromoly or possibly titanium (which I don't see a lot of anymore). When I was a poor college student, I found a first run Litespeed Ti frame. Couldn't scrape up the grand they wanted for it.

If you feel you can squeeze a few more benjamins into your budget, check these out:

:: ROCK LOBSTER CUSTOM BICYCLES ::

Had a good racer friend in HS who bought one (at the time for around 1200 completed). Sweetest frame and custom paintjob I have ever seen.

 

[tonkota]

Trek, GT, Specialized, Gary Fisher, Kona.....

the list is long of really good bikes.

 

[cary]

1) If his budget is $1500 and a Gunnar frame is $800, I calculate $700 "for his budget".
2) Gunnar doesn't make frames out of anything but Chromo. Gunnar Cycles USA
3) That's just not true. There's no aluminum that will have a compliant ride like Reynolds 853 chromo, Colombus Zona or your other favorite double butted, lightweight steel.

I've had dozens of bikes, and ridden dozens that I didn't own. Aluminum rides like crap. It can climb great, and it works great for a suspension frame where you want the frame stiff. Scandium can be made good enough so it doesn't rattle your teeth out, but it's pretty rare and expensive and still not as nice as 853.

Gunnar has apparently lowered their prices, their frames used to be $900. Even at $700 for the remaining components he is not going to be able to build anything nice. At his price point a fully built bike from a major manufacture is is best choice.

Gunnar does not use Chromoly, which is 4130. They use True Temper Ox which is lighter steel.

Aluminum can be made to ride nicely or like crap, same as steel and TI. I have ridden steel that was horribly stiff and my aluminium bikes which are properly designed ride like a dream (Titus Riddler out of 6069 and a Drop-U out of 6069). Both are well known for their great ride.

I agree that he Jamis Dragon would be a great place to start if he can find one.

 

[Fly Rod]

I'lll leave the pissing match to the others.

I am 210lb and a former hard core MTB racer. I have owned/own high end Aluminum, Carbon Fiber, Steel and Titanium bikes. Every carbon and aluminum bike I have ever owned has eventually broke. When you are my size and have the strength I had when I was racing it is only a matter of when not if. When Yeti replaced my ARC they replaced it with Titanium for that reason.

I will always choose a steel or Ti bike for recreational riding. When you say you are 240 and like to jump I automatically eliminate Aluminum. The properties of Aluminum are not as forgiving as Steel and Ti. At your weight I would also be cautious when looking at FS bikes. The rear triangle takes a beating when you jump and you will see problems.

So my $.02? Find a really nice new steel bike or a deal on a used Ti bike. Any Mexican with bit of talent can weld a fix on a steel bike. I have spent a bunch of time down there and have seen many creative fixes. Good luck finding one to do the same with an aluminum bike.

Don't ask me which one. I have been out of the loop too long to be of any real help on that side of things.

 

[SR.GRINGO]

I enjoy building things such as flashlights, my 80, but the problem with the bike is I will drive in to the U.S. and drive out two days later. Generally we stay in a hotel somewhere so building a bike is out of the question. When I bring it back into Mexico is has to be hanging on my car or I will have to pay a big tax. Also what are the general feelings about shocks for both front and back? Probably 70% will be blacktop riding....going over curbs and such with my dog. Not really worried about theft.......

 

[Fly Rod]

I say keep it simple, front shock only. You take $ away from other areas to get a rear suspension bike. As I posted above, jumping on rear suspensions beats them up. You enter the "when not if" world of when it will break. Simplicity and a quality steel frame is what I would buy.

 

[cary]

I say keep it simple, front shock only. You take $ away from other areas to get a rear suspension bike. As I posted above, jumping on rear suspensions beats them up. You enter the "when not if" world of when it will break. Simplicity and a quality steel frame is what I would buy.

Agree, stay with a hardtail and get better components.

 

[hks3sgte]

Nothing like an old school GT Zaskar LE ... was about 20 lbs

 

[SR.GRINGO]

Redline Monocog. Cheap, reliable, nearly indestructable, as close to zero maintenance as you can get, probably less likely to get stolen that a high-zoot full-suspension bike. You can get them with 29" wheels, but for a big kid, I'd recommend standard 26" wheels for reliability.

$400-$500 via google: redline monocog - Google Search

Eddy,

I like your idea.....it is pretty dam flat where I live. Sometimes I may bring the dog for a peddle. The price is right as well. I have been checking out mtbr and lots of bikes but not sure I need anything over $1,000. Starting to think either ebay special or the redline...... How do I figure out the frame size? My inseam is 32" @ 6'4" 240 pounds..... Also when you guys say go for the hard tail with good componets any thoughts as far as brands/models to look for?

Thanks,

Gringo

 

[SR.GRINGO]

Redline Monocog. Cheap, reliable, nearly indestructable, as close to zero maintenance as you can get, probably less likely to get stolen that a high-zoot full-suspension bike. You can get them with 29" wheels, but for a big kid, I'd recommend standard 26" wheels for reliability.



Eddy,

Whats the difference between the 29" vs. the 26" wheels....more blow outs becuase of my size?

Gringo

 

[Fly Rod]

Nothing like an old school GT Zaskar LE ... was about 20 lbs

That is a great ride. I broke two of them.

 

[Fast Eddy]

How do I figure out the frame size? My inseam is 32" @ 6'4" 240 pounds..... Also when you guys say go for the hard tail with good componets any thoughts as far as brands/models to look for?

You're probably going to fit a large, or 19" model. It would be best if you could test ride it before buying.

IMO, 29" wheels are not as sturdy. The spokes are longer. Lots of 29er zealots would disagree. Heavy tires may prevent most flats, but are mostly available in 26" sizes.

 

[Fast Eddy]

Aluminum can be made to ride nicely or like crap, same as steel and TI. I have ridden steel that was horribly stiff and my aluminium bikes which are properly designed ride like a dream (Titus Riddler out of 6069 and a Drop-U out of 6069). Both are well known for their great ride.

Nice bikes for sure. I've got a Moto-lite.

 

[crholliday]

Nothing like an old school GT Zaskar LE ... was about 20 lbs

Holy compressed vertebrae! Zaskars were notoriously rigid.

A bike that stiff will teach you to ride in rough terrain though.