Good battery disconnect for stock 80? (1 Viewer)

[e9999]

(did a search)

These stories about runaway starters make me want to put a battery disconnect switch on the 80. Would also be good for security purposes.


I'd rather have this be a simple bolt-on, with no cutting the big wires etc, preferably fitting in within reach of the existing wires, so no extension necessary.

And it'd be great if it has some removable key for security.

Finally, I would not mind if it cuts only the starter off so the computer, clock etc won't be lost each time.


I see Harbor Freight has a blade one that fits right on the post. Seems great except no key and not sure the blade is heavy enough. They have one with a key but that requires cutting wires. Probably lower rating too.

Anything better out there?

 

[NorCalDoug]

IdahoDoug posted something about disconnects a while back. I recall he picked his up from Sears. Nothing too fancy as I recall -- just a manual switch.

If I can remember to do it, I might install one when I wire up the dual batteries.

 

[RavenTai]

Blue Sea sells a manual switch with removable "key" http://www.bluesea.com/product.asp?Product_Id=26539&d_Id=7458&l1=7458&l2=

Would not be a direct bolt in but not too hard to install

When I did my dual battery setup I put in a cheap Ford style starter solenoid, the starter is only powered when I want it to be. Did it for the same reasons you mentioned. Only draw back is that it is another part to fail, I need to buy another one and keep it in the truck. In the mean time there is a way to get around it.

 

[Docmallory]

I got one of these cheapie green-handled things off eBay for exactly the reasons you mentioned (and some others). It works great and installing it took about 5 seconds. The handle is removable if you want to use it as a security measure. Picture below is obviously not my battery, but shows you what I'm talking about.

 

[TomH]

It seems that if you are worried about a runaway starter, the prudent thing to do would be replace the starter contacts every 60,000 miles.

Does your rig have an alarm? That would probably work for security.

Tom

 

[NorCalDoug]

It seems that if you are worried about a runaway starter, the prudent thing to do would be replace the starter contacts every 60,000 miles.

Does your rig have an alarm? That would probably work for security.

Tom

Sure...assuming the contacts don't screw you before the 60k mile mark

And you don't seriously think alarms help much for security do you? When I was in college, I had a car towed once with the alarm blazing the entire way...no one seemed to care.

 

[e9999]

pulling the fuse is a good idea, but I wonder if one could damage the receptacle doing this a number of times

 

[Koffer]

They make that unit above with a fuse (15a) that jumps the gap for keeping the memory of the clock radio stations etc. but if you try to start it the fuse smokes and wont start. This also keeps the the computer happy so it dosnt go dumb every time you pull the knob.

 

[TomH]

Sure...assuming the contacts don't screw you before the 60k mile mark

And you don't seriously think alarms help much for security do you? When I was in college, I had a car towed once with the alarm blazing the entire way...no one seemed to care.

Well, thought I would do a little checking through the archives. I found five threads from this year about starter contacts where the mileage was listed. (And I'm sure there are plenty more threads on the same subject.)

The mileage on the five trucks was:
168K
131K
140K
120K
138K

So yeah, I'm pretty confident that if I replace my starter contacts every 60K miles, then I won't have a problem. You may think otherwise.

As for the alarm question, I don't think anyone with half a clue would think a horn honking would be an effective theft deterent. However, the RS3000 alarm that was commonly installed in the 80 series also has a starter disable feature. I think this would do a little more to prevent theft than a horn. Certainly a thief could find a way around the starter disable but I think a thief could handle a battery switch a lot easier.

Also, all this alarm talk got me thinking about the panic mode. I was wondering if panic mode would disable the starter, which would cut the power in the case of a runaway starter. The manual doesn't mention the starter being disabled in panic mode, but who knows.

Now, having said all that, I really don't see a problem adding a battery disconnect - it is cheap and easy.

Tom

 

[NorCalDoug]

Well, thought I would do a little checking through the archives. I found five threads from this year about starter contacts where the mileage was listed. (And I'm sure there are plenty more threads on the same subject.)

The mileage on the five trucks was:
168K
131K
140K
120K
138K

So yeah, I'm pretty confident that if I replace my starter contacts every 60K miles, then I won't have a problem. You may think otherwise.

As for the alarm question, I don't think anyone with half a clue would think a horn honking would be an effective theft deterent. However, the RS3000 alarm that was commonly installed in the 80 series also has a starter disable feature. I think this would do a little more to prevent theft than a horn. Certainly a thief could find a way around the starter disable but I think a thief could handle a battery switch a lot easier.

Also, all this alarm talk got me thinking about the panic mode. I was wondering if panic mode would disable the starter, which would cut the power in the case of a runaway starter. The manual doesn't mention the starter being disabled in panic mode, but who knows.

Now, having said all that, I really don't see a problem adding a battery disconnect - it is cheap and easy.

Tom

Glad you took time to search before posting.
I'm preparing a counter to your starter-failure vs. miles arguement, but that's going to require a bit of searching through archives as well -- but I will post a response.

That said, re: the panic button/alarm and starter disabling -- no it doesn't disable the starter if you hit the panic -- not if you have your own key anyhow.

As my governator used to like to say..."I'll be back."

 

[RavenTai]

I dont know if the panic mode kicks in the starter kill relay or not but it does not matter it cannot stop a runaway starter. the starter kill relay interupts signal level power from the ignition switch to the solenoid on the starter , once the starter contacs lock you have to knock it senseless unless it lets go or disconnect the large main + cable running to it. neither the key not the kill relay can reliabibly stop it.

 

[NorCalDoug]

...So yeah, I'm pretty confident that if I replace my starter contacts every 60K miles, then I won't have a problem. You may think otherwise.
...
Tom

Okay...here's one post I found (see post #15)...

I'll agree with you that the OEM starter and contacts usually take well over 100k miles to begin to fail. BUT we're not talking about starter replacements with new OEM, we're talking about contacts replaces MOST TIMES by non-ASE-certified-fairly-competent-at-home "mechanics". There's no way to know if the replaced starter contacts, plunger, etc. are replaced correctly, perfectly to specs, etc.

The home-rebuilt starters might last as long as the OEM...they very well might not.

A quick search brought about an example from one list member from our forum who didn't get quite as many cranks from a rebuilt starter as he expected.

I suppose I could search the 80scool email list for similar examples...but that would be quite tedious...cuz searching through Yahoo sucks and birfield.com has been kinda slow lately...when it's even up and running...

 

[IdahoDoug]

Doug,

I'll have a data point for you guys and your discussion in a few weeks. I'll be opening up a starter I put new contacts in a few years ago in order to put a new plunger in (acted up twice). I'll put new contacts in as well. Anyhow, it will be interesting to see how dented the "new" contacts are.

DougM

 

[TomH]

Doug

You bring up a good point. When I did my Tacoma the first time (about 80K), I didn't replace the plunger. I just did it again a few months ago (about 160K) and I could see that either I didn't get the contacts in real well or the original plunger affected the wear on the contacts. The wear was very uneven.

I did the LC at about 75K and didn't replace the plunger. I also didn't to make sure the contact were seated nice and level. If only I had done the Tacoma first. Now I'm going to have to pull the LC starter and check it.

Tom

 

[Rich]

While the effort to remove and replace the contacts is moderate, it only makes good sense to replace the plunger at the same time. A new plunger along with contacts installed flat and parallel to the plunger will go a long ways to minimize how quickly the replaced contacts get burned away.

 

[TomH]

While the effort to remove and replace the contacts is moderate, it only makes good sense to replace the plunger at the same time. A new plunger along with contacts installed flat and parallel to the plunger will go a long ways to minimize how quickly the replaced contacts get burned away.

Yeah, I think I finally figured that out.

 

[e9999]

FWIW, I happened to see the same green affair as in the photo in post #4 at WalMart for all of $3 (Everstart p/n ID220C - no fuse though unfortunately) so I got it. I put it in on the + side until I get something better. Fits just fine, did not have to fiddle with the wires, but had to file the post down a tad. The original Toy post clamp was too big though, so I had to connect the wires with a bolt through an existing hole in the disconnect. Green knob is removable for "security" but would be trivial to short it with a screwdriver or something so that's not a big plus against dedicated / knowledgeable thieves.

I measured the voltage drop across the disconnect. Was only 0.001V under the biggest static load I could achieve (fans, radio, high beams, lights, etc, all on), and -hard to tell for sure- but maybe 0.050V when starting the engine. Engine starts just fine.

I'll see if I can get a piece of fusible link at NAPA to bridge the disconnect to keep the computer alive when the know is removed.

Seems OK altogether. Good peace of mind for $3 and 1/2 hour.