Yeah... I priced a Ron Davis radiator... $$$$
Good aftermarket radiator for 97 LX450?
- Thread starter NCLX450
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Yeah... I priced a Ron Davis radiator... $$$$
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Neither, likely best to stay indoors, then will never be stuck out there!
yep, still cheaper than any engine rebuild, or pull front end to replace crack plastic end tanks tho
The rows are thicker, the total thickness is as thick or thicker than a stock 3 row.
FWIW, 21 years and 250,000 miles on my stock radiator with aluminum/plastic before I replaced it as PM. Wheeled hard in the Mojave Desert. As long as your cooling system is kept up you’ll be fine. I’m running a blue hub fan clutch with ~ 45ml of 15k oil IIRC, new t-stat, water pump, new fan... I was hard pressed to get my engine over 200 even in the summer fully loaded and wheeling when we lived in SoCal.
If you haven’t replaced the fan clutch yet while replacing the radiator is the perfect time to do it. Along with a new thermostat and all new belts and hoses. If funds and motivation are there might as well toss on a new water pump for piece of mind.
If you haven’t replaced the fan clutch yet while replacing the radiator is the perfect time to do it. Along with a new thermostat and all new belts and hoses. If funds and motivation are there might as well toss on a new water pump for piece of mind.
Never had a problem with the TYC, fit perfect. IIRC @Tools R Us noted that the Denso was one of the worst performing rads, but still adequate.
I won’t argue that @Tools R Us knows his stuff as we works on rigs everyday. We had said that the Denso has thinner fins. Here’s some pictures I found from my install.
Either way, buy what works best for you and your wallet. When I purchased I would have had to wait for the TYC, I got the Denso next day since RockAuto had a local warehouse.
Either way, buy what works best for you and your wallet. When I purchased I would have had to wait for the TYC, I got the Denso next day since RockAuto had a local warehouse.
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- #29
Thanks. This is the link where I saw the reviews. Just made me nervous that's all
TYC 1918 Toyota/Lexus 2-Row Plastic Aluminum Replacement Radiator Amazon product ASIN B0020M8T4K
TYC 1918 Toyota/Lexus 2-Row Plastic Aluminum Replacement Radiator Amazon product ASIN B0020M8T4K
Link not working. I get it, I was extremely skeptical of the TYC myself. I was convinced after seeing the numbers of several Scangauge-equipped trucks, with the TYC and other brand-new rads. In Phx every degree helps, so I took a chance, and so far I'm happy I did. Even if it proves to be less reliable and I have to replace it every couple of years, the extra cooling is worth it. So far it hasn't been an issue.
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- #31
I also found a KOYO A1819 on Amazon for $239 so maybe I should go that route other than the TYC or Denso.
Koyorad A1918 Radiator Amazon product ASIN B00PW2QJS8
Koyorad A1918 Radiator Amazon product ASIN B00PW2QJS8
Can't go wrong with koyo pr tyc
ChaseTruck
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As part of a 'while we're in there' overhaul of a S/C'd '93 that lives in Phoenix, we recently ditched a 4-year old Koyo in favor of a TYC, on the advice of Tools & Inkpot. Turns out the core of the TYC is deeper than the Koyo. No fitment issues; noticeably improved cooling.
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The Koyo is a good unit, most have had great results with them, I didn't, after the second one leaked, I switched, ended up with the TYC. When taking a pile of radiators apart for scrap, it's easy to confuse, mix up Koyo parts with factory, look to be a direct copy. Both of mine leaked at about 2yrs, warranty was easy.
Our Denso experience is only with one, and it was early, when first available. Looked to be the same design as the Koyo and factory, ~1-1/4" two core, etc. Have not had one apart, but would rate them a tick lower than Koyo, fins seemed thinner, easier to damage, etc. It has worked as expected for that class of radiator. At the time, it was priced the same as Koyo, IIRC, less now?
I would also rate the TYC on the tick lower than Koyo class, have had great luck with them. The core is thicker, ~1-7/16" haven't had one apart, but looking into the cap, it's obvious the tubes are deeper. This equals a higher percentage of the tube with fin contact, theoretically more efficient. They deliver the best cooling we have seen on "normal" radiators, by a significant margin.
One of the rigs has a single core, theoretically even more efficient, no brand markings. But had antifreeze that looked like pea soup, cleaned it up, worked well, wonder how it worked before being abused? Ordered one that was spec 1-1/4" single core, came 2 core. The TYC radiators have performed well, so haven't pursued it.
For most climates, pick your poison, some even get away with old school brass. Here, if the rig is pushed hard, the benefits of a more efficient radiator become obvious.
Have had a transmission line leak, so now check all of them. When installing the foam, we put the shroud in place on the radiator, and check the angle of the line fittings, if needed, loosen the flair nut and adjust the angle so it doesn't pinch the hose into the shroud.
In some cases, the lower mount brackets on the core support are too close together, making installation a chore. In this case, we loosen the bolts holding the bracket(s) to the core support, install the radiator, the lower radiator mount bolts finger tight, then tighten the bracket bolts, the sets the proper width for the new radiator.
Our Denso experience is only with one, and it was early, when first available. Looked to be the same design as the Koyo and factory, ~1-1/4" two core, etc. Have not had one apart, but would rate them a tick lower than Koyo, fins seemed thinner, easier to damage, etc. It has worked as expected for that class of radiator. At the time, it was priced the same as Koyo, IIRC, less now?
I would also rate the TYC on the tick lower than Koyo class, have had great luck with them. The core is thicker, ~1-7/16" haven't had one apart, but looking into the cap, it's obvious the tubes are deeper. This equals a higher percentage of the tube with fin contact, theoretically more efficient. They deliver the best cooling we have seen on "normal" radiators, by a significant margin.
One of the rigs has a single core, theoretically even more efficient, no brand markings. But had antifreeze that looked like pea soup, cleaned it up, worked well, wonder how it worked before being abused? Ordered one that was spec 1-1/4" single core, came 2 core. The TYC radiators have performed well, so haven't pursued it.
For most climates, pick your poison, some even get away with old school brass. Here, if the rig is pushed hard, the benefits of a more efficient radiator become obvious.
Have had a transmission line leak, so now check all of them. When installing the foam, we put the shroud in place on the radiator, and check the angle of the line fittings, if needed, loosen the flair nut and adjust the angle so it doesn't pinch the hose into the shroud.
In some cases, the lower mount brackets on the core support are too close together, making installation a chore. In this case, we loosen the bolts holding the bracket(s) to the core support, install the radiator, the lower radiator mount bolts finger tight, then tighten the bracket bolts, the sets the proper width for the new radiator.
