Build Goat. A 1967 survivor FJ-45 LWB
- Thread starter wngrog
- Start date
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If your OK with aftermarket Japanese steering link tubes, we stock those (and OEM too)
Braking and and Stopping a Car without ABS
How to Brake and Stop a Car in the Shortest Distance
I`m a J4 drummer since 1980 .... and believe me I never need discs.
a.greenspan = doctor do little`s emergency account
what`s new on my RED
got 5 new Dunlop Qualifer 7.50x16 tires and tubes...
and the whole combination ( drums & tires) stopped immediatley beside a aspraragus field to pick some asparagus yesterday.... great.
Toyota Gibraltar short instruction.... braking with and without ABS.
TGS Instructional Videos - Anti-lock Braking Systems (ABS)
without ABS
Braking Without ABS | Braking Technique | BSR, Inc.
braking and steering without ABS
Threshold braking
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- Thread starter
- #746
- Thread starter
- #747
Doctor Do Little. What happened to your old name?
Yeah I know how. I have been driving Land Cruisers for 35 years. I just always replace the front drums and seldom worry too much about the rear drums except on my 60 since that’s the Ebrake.
Using them is not the issue. Making them work is another matter.
I’m close enough on that.
Ordered a center arm kit from @cruiseroutfit for next week. I’m
Going to put it all together today and tighten it up when I get those parts
Yeah I know how. I have been driving Land Cruisers for 35 years. I just always replace the front drums and seldom worry too much about the rear drums except on my 60 since that’s the Ebrake.
Using them is not the issue. Making them work is another matter.
I’m close enough on that.
Ordered a center arm kit from @cruiseroutfit for next week. I’m
Going to put it all together today and tighten it up when I get those parts
- Thread starter
- #748
I stuck it all back together today and also finished scraping and cleaning the front end of the funky caked grease off everything
I hoard it down with Fluid Film after.
This stuff is truly amazing. I appreciate the recommendation to use it.
The drag link rebuild.
I’ve never done one so I took it apart and rebuilt it as directed.
Nice and clean.
When I went to screw the end cap from the rebuild kit into the end it would not screw in far enough to get the cotter pin in.
This is why.
So, I used the old cap and it all went in fine.
I hoard it down with Fluid Film after.
This stuff is truly amazing. I appreciate the recommendation to use it.
The drag link rebuild.
I’ve never done one so I took it apart and rebuilt it as directed.
Nice and clean.
When I went to screw the end cap from the rebuild kit into the end it would not screw in far enough to get the cotter pin in.
This is why.
So, I used the old cap and it all went in fine.
- Thread starter
- #749
Having new tie rods made it so much easier.
I jacked up the drag link position so I have to play with that tomorrow to get the steering centered.
Don’t worry, I know the castle nuts are loose in the pics.
Also it’s not leaking, that’s the Fluid Film.
I jacked up the drag link position so I have to play with that tomorrow to get the steering centered.
Don’t worry, I know the castle nuts are loose in the pics.
Also it’s not leaking, that’s the Fluid Film.
EDIT: Fixed it...
Interested in the whether the Drag Link rebuild you did (in that raggity joint you call a shop) does anything for you. Probably hard to tell with the TRE replacement at the same time.
Interested in the whether the Drag Link rebuild you did (in that raggity joint you call a shop) does anything for you. Probably hard to tell with the TRE replacement at the same time.
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- Thread starter
- #751
It’s funny, nothing was loose feeling before and everything except the steering dampener was nice and tight.
There were no bushings and a half decade of crud on everything but I’m not sure it will feel any different.
It makes me feel better because it was all so nasty.
@cbmontgo had a worn out ball on his pitman arm and he replaced the rag joint and the pitman arm on his and it tighted up big time.
What tires and wheels do you have @DomSmith ?
There were no bushings and a half decade of crud on everything but I’m not sure it will feel any different.
It makes me feel better because it was all so nasty.
@cbmontgo had a worn out ball on his pitman arm and he replaced the rag joint and the pitman arm on his and it tighted up big time.
What tires and wheels do you have @DomSmith ?
I’ve got the original BFG MT KM’s in 33x10.5 on OEM Toyota disc wheels. I run them at about 27 psi and they’re comfy that way.
The truck tracks straight and true but has about 8-10” back and forth in the steering wheel. It’s actually not sketchy the way some of my Cruisers have been. It doesn’t grab the lines or wander all over. I just slowly roll the steering wheel back and forth to where it will move in one direction or the other as needed.
Not sure what I will do when I need new tires as these are NLA.
The truck tracks straight and true but has about 8-10” back and forth in the steering wheel. It’s actually not sketchy the way some of my Cruisers have been. It doesn’t grab the lines or wander all over. I just slowly roll the steering wheel back and forth to where it will move in one direction or the other as needed.
Not sure what I will do when I need new tires as these are NLA.
- Thread starter
- #753
I’ve got a set of those on my Pig. They are getting loud and have lots of cracks.
I’m going to retire them to my Goat Tail project
The Goat Tail - 1970 shorty trailer build
My FJ40 does that with the steering wheel. I can and do drive it 80 mph and it tracks perfectly but I can move it to about 10:30 and 1:30 while going straight down the road. I’m not sure where that slack is coming from but I would guess a little of everything.
Box. Center Arm......
Stored
Tyre pressure
I feel ok with 2,5 atü front & rear (7.50x16)
and Bilstein shocks better handling and a more stable road holding...the old Toyota shocks are stored.
Nolan if you want another 45 buy
a 1936 LGoat 45 ... would be nice in front of your awesome wooden garage.
Drums & skinny tires all around .
1936 Lagonda LG45 Tourer : Robert Glover Limited
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Lol! “A Royale with cheese!”
When I had my RHD HJ47 in Augusta GA, I used to pull up, drop in neutral, yank the e brake up, and slide over to the left seat!
When I had my RHD HJ47 in Augusta GA, I used to pull up, drop in neutral, yank the e brake up, and slide over to the left seat!
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For real?? Oh man, I was losing my mind with 2". I gained a heap of tautness in the box by losing the side cover shim. I imagine you can also run a heavier weight oil. Hell, I reckon you could even run grease.
- Thread starter
- #758
I basically have no seal in my FJ55. 90wt flows right out.
I popped the vent cap and filled it to the brim with grease from a grease gun (head fits in the hole perfectly)
Done.
Made you a video.
That would drive me nuts Nolen!
- Thread starter
- #760
Man I’m so happy with the way it drives I’ve never messed with it.
Maybe I’ll bust open the rag joint and rebuild the center arm this summer for the fun of it. See if that tightens that up.
The Goat will be my test.