cruiser_guy
Out of Africa / North Africa
Doesn't the existing relay have 4 wires? If so, the smaller two on the small connections and the larger two on the larger connections.
Glow wiring issue
- Thread starter Tofudebeest
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #22
That didn't help.
sandcruiser
....back in the saddle again....
based on your diagrams:
B to fusible link to Battery is good
M to harness to glow bus is good
not sure how your switch/timer are wired. I think that the solenoid is grounded through the mounting screws.
So try this: don't connect anything. but do mount the solenoid such that the mounting screw is grounded.
touch your fused wire to S
if you get a "Click", then you know that the solenoid is engaged.
in that case--- put M and B where they should be, and run the lead from your switch to S.
engage the switch, listen for "click".
Someone else will have to chime in with how the timer works, I don't know that. Sorry!
B to fusible link to Battery is good
M to harness to glow bus is good
not sure how your switch/timer are wired. I think that the solenoid is grounded through the mounting screws.
So try this: don't connect anything. but do mount the solenoid such that the mounting screw is grounded.
touch your fused wire to S
if you get a "Click", then you know that the solenoid is engaged.
in that case--- put M and B where they should be, and run the lead from your switch to S.
engage the switch, listen for "click".
Someone else will have to chime in with how the timer works, I don't know that. Sorry!
sandcruiser
....back in the saddle again....
if the above works, try putting the time wire to the I
that might do the trick
or it might fry the timer. but probably not.
that might do the trick
or it might fry the timer. but probably not.
sandcruiser
....back in the saddle again....
I would focus on getting it to work, then figure out the timer part.
the timer is a luxury, the glow circuit is more important.
the timer is a luxury, the glow circuit is more important.
- Thread starter
- #26
Bump for Reid.
Hm. I've had luck repairing relays before. We could test your old one since it is apart?
I'm not sure what duties the original relay had, but the new one will simply close the connection between the glow plugs and the battery when a small current is applied to the small terminals. From diagram research, you might be able to either give the small switching current to the small post and 1)have the other small post grounded or 2) just ground the body.
I have a feeling the timer for how long this relay is closed is a part of another circuit controlling the switching voltage. Just need to find out how much current the timer likes, which I very much doubt originates from the glow plug current.
Also turned up some info on your new relay
http://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gallery/sizeimage.php?photoid=120458&.jpg=
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p185/dhkent55/solenoid02.gif
Little more:
Both the relay master (trigger) circuit and the controller itself get12V key-on from the engine harness through a red wire that is attached to the stud where in the first pic there is already one red wire. The relay master circuit is completed and the slave (glowplugs power) circuit is triggered when the controller grounds the relay, it uses that white wire on the other small relay stud for that. To override the controller you take a long piece of wire and hook one end to that small relay stud with the white wire, then run that long wire into the cab and to a switch on the dash. The other terminal of that switch you connect to a good ground (steering column brace under the dash works good for that). What you're doing is creating a stand-alone ground path for the glowplugs relay - now when you flip the switch the relay trigger circuit is complete and glowplugs are powered through the factory high-current relay. Now, you can stop here and it will work just fine, but you'll notice something strage - when you glow the plugs manually your "Wait to Start"(WTS) light will not come on - plugs will be working but light will be off because the light is triggered by the controller alone. To remedy this you need to snip the blue controller wire right next to the controller body, add a ring terminal to the end of wire that's now just dangling there from the engine harness, and hook that one up to the same small stud on the relay where the white wire and the override switch wires are - as a result of this your WTS light will now work when the controller tells it to (factory setup), when you manually glow the plugs, AND during any afterglow cycle the controller may or may not enter every once in a while.
This is actually the system I run in my truck, it works like a charm - I can fire 'er up just fine on 3 dead plugs
P.S.if you want to totally disable the controller, and operate the plugs only manually - do everything aforementioned, but also disconnect the white wire from small stud on the relay, and tape its ring terminal off as a good measure.
Maybe something like this...?
I'm not sure what duties the original relay had, but the new one will simply close the connection between the glow plugs and the battery when a small current is applied to the small terminals. From diagram research, you might be able to either give the small switching current to the small post and 1)have the other small post grounded or 2) just ground the body.
I have a feeling the timer for how long this relay is closed is a part of another circuit controlling the switching voltage. Just need to find out how much current the timer likes, which I very much doubt originates from the glow plug current.
Also turned up some info on your new relay
http://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gallery/sizeimage.php?photoid=120458&.jpg=
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p185/dhkent55/solenoid02.gif
Little more:
Both the relay master (trigger) circuit and the controller itself get12V key-on from the engine harness through a red wire that is attached to the stud where in the first pic there is already one red wire. The relay master circuit is completed and the slave (glowplugs power) circuit is triggered when the controller grounds the relay, it uses that white wire on the other small relay stud for that. To override the controller you take a long piece of wire and hook one end to that small relay stud with the white wire, then run that long wire into the cab and to a switch on the dash. The other terminal of that switch you connect to a good ground (steering column brace under the dash works good for that). What you're doing is creating a stand-alone ground path for the glowplugs relay - now when you flip the switch the relay trigger circuit is complete and glowplugs are powered through the factory high-current relay. Now, you can stop here and it will work just fine, but you'll notice something strage - when you glow the plugs manually your "Wait to Start"(WTS) light will not come on - plugs will be working but light will be off because the light is triggered by the controller alone. To remedy this you need to snip the blue controller wire right next to the controller body, add a ring terminal to the end of wire that's now just dangling there from the engine harness, and hook that one up to the same small stud on the relay where the white wire and the override switch wires are - as a result of this your WTS light will now work when the controller tells it to (factory setup), when you manually glow the plugs, AND during any afterglow cycle the controller may or may not enter every once in a while.
This is actually the system I run in my truck, it works like a charm - I can fire 'er up just fine on 3 dead plugs
P.S.if you want to totally disable the controller, and operate the plugs only manually - do everything aforementioned, but also disconnect the white wire from small stud on the relay, and tape its ring terminal off as a good measure.
Maybe something like this...?
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #28
That's awesome, but...ah...how about I wait for you to show me in person?
Cool, I just checked the FSM diagram and it shows the OEM relay as being a four post as well. I think we can make this happen. While on the FSM topic, do you have copies of the 60's materials? There is also a 'Glow Plug Relay' as well we might check...
The fsm also shows a 7.5 amp fuse for this circuit.
The fsm also shows a 7.5 amp fuse for this circuit.
- Thread starter
- #30
I have the FSM Chassis & Body '84-'90 and 2H & 12HT engine manuals in .pdf and the H55F and transfer case in hard copy.
