Getting rid of EGR? (5 Viewers)

[MikePL]

I have been reading quite a lot about the EGR problems and all the possible 50 ways to fix them.
I live outside the US so the EGR is not compulsory here and I was thinking about getting rid of it. Is it possible and is it a good approach?

1. Will it put less stress on the 6th cylinder?
2. Will it increase mileage or engine performance? Probably not.
3. What would be the reaction of the ECU? A constant CEL?

Or maybe there is a way to disconnect the EGR and fool the ECU? I have seen someone swapping vacuum lines and stuff, but can't find it anywhere now.

 

[Adam B]

I've removed / blocked off the EGR system on my 22R-E and 7M-GE with no adverse effects.

Particularly on the inline 6 squeezed into my small engine bay, I felt that the extra airflow behind #6 was a good thing. I was never happy with the way the "EGR Cooler" routes the hot air along the back of #6. I think that is one big reason that most 7M's lose head gaskets around #6.

We do have emission testing here, although they know nothing and do not visually inspect the engine. It's basically a "sniff test" and my NOx (oxides of nitrogen) readings are always well below the allowable and well below the average passing reading so I'm not worried.

I'm quite sure that your ECU will never know what's happening. My 7M has an EGR VSV, it isn't connected, and I don't get trouble codes for it.

If you wanted to do it the really easy way, remove the vac line from the EGR modulator to the big EGR valve and plug it. Assuming your EGR valve is properly closing, it will never open again...

 

[DTAYLOR]

Lets say I want to use a "95 Cruiser running gear in an off-road buggy, and therefore want to remove the EGR and run straight exhaust. Does anyone know what effects this would have on the engine performance and computer codes?

Toy,

Check the Hardcore section, I have read things there on fooling the ECU about EGR removal. I know waggoner05 did a radical conversion where he took a 96 80, pulled the body off, and put a 55 pickup body on it. He posted lots of pics, lots of tech data.

I don't remember if it was him, but some one there in hardcore did what you are talking about.

Merry Christmas!!!

DT

 

[RavenTai]

1. Maybe
2. No
3. Yes, unless you trick the ECU.

Not much change in performance, a properly running EGR is not running during idle and larger throttle, it is for mid throttle cruise where you will not be able to tell the difference.

I recently drove with a bad VSV (P0401) but absolutely no change after repair.

If you want to wimp out on fixing your EGR and take the easy way out there is a post in the archives that shows how to trick the temp sensor so it will not throw a code.

 

[MikePL]

I've decided to return to the problem after a while. I am planning to get rid of the EGR. European cars don't need the EGR and I don't need it either. I get a constant CEL which additionally triggers a catalyst-related CEL (P0420). I don't know if it's coincidence but here are my findings:

- the CEL (P0401) appears after two days of driving. If I ignore it there appears a P0420 code soon.
- but if I keep deleting the P0401 code once it appears, I don't get the other code.

FYI, I delete the code with a laptop cable and NOT by pulling the EFI fuse, so there is no computer resetting, which leads me to the conclusion that the EGR code might trigger the other one.

Somebody said that EGR reduces combustion temps. So how do the non-EGR engines control that thing? Am I risking something without the EGR?

Probably I will eventually go with the 0.47ohm resistor fix. Many have argued that this is not a fix but only a form of covering up the problem, but if the EGR system works more or less good and the CEL comes on only because at the point when the ECU checks the temp, it is a bit out of spec, then the resistor is a good way to dampen the over-sensitive computer.

Maybe not a very valuable post from the technical point of view, but I just need some more comments before I either cut off all the EGR components or just put the resistor and let the EGR be.

 

[alia176]

These pics should help everyone visualize this part of the cylinder head!

Pic of the EGR tube on the instake side:

Pic of the EGR hole with the tube removed:

EGR hole on the exhaust side

Hope this helps!

 

[RavenTai]

that is a lot of snapped off bolts.

 

[alia176]

that is a lot of snapped off bolts.

It's an illusion - I removed quite a few of the studs before head removal. Nothing was broken!

 

[RavenTai]

the three around the exhaust port are not broken?

 

[alia176]

the three around the exhaust port are not broken?

Nope..what you're seeing is the dirty alum peeking through the bolt holes! I'll be reusing all studs and nuts on re-installation.

 

[chibo]

-snip-

So I would assume that I could just pull the EGR assembly off the intake side, fab up a EGR blockplate and be done with it? I could just leave the exhaust side alone?

 

[prossett]

Don't know if I can help, but I have a factory 1FZ-FE engine without EGR in my LC-80. Maybe I can help answer how Toyota set it up. Go easy on me and speak real slow, ok?

 

[alia176]

So I would assume that I could just pull the EGR assembly off the intake side, fab up a EGR blockplate and be done with it? I could just leave the exhaust side alone?

I'm still not sure what the heck does recircing the gasses actually do for our engine so I don't know the validity of plugging the EGR....

But, would it be better to plug it on the exhaust side so that nothing enters the EGR system at all? This way, the short EGR runner around #6 cyl (in the head) wouldn't see any dead heading exhaust gas. Just wondering out loud....

I'm sure Toyota put in EGR for a good reason.....

 

[chibo]

I'm still not sure what the heck does recircing the gasses actually do for our engine so I don't know the validity of plugging the EGR....

But, would it be better to plug it on the exhaust side so that nothing enters the EGR system at all? This way, the short EGR runner around #6 cyl (in the head) wouldn't see any dead heading exhaust gas. Just wondering out loud....

I'm sure Toyota put in EGR for a good reason.....

I was sorta thinking outloud too, every sports car I've owned has had all emissions equipment (among other things) completely removed. I know on my Nissans I just ran an EGR blockoff plate... maybe someone will chime in here to deny/confirm on the 1FZFE, though I'm nearly sure that all that's required is the plate

To clarify:
Throw on an EGR blockoff plate
Trash the EGR stuff behind the head
Use this mod (https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=43028&highlight=0.47ohm+resistor) to keep from throwing CELs

Would this be wrong? Seems right in theory to me.

 

[RavenTai]

I'm still not sure what the heck does recircing the gasses actually do for our engine so I don't know the validity of plugging the EGR....

for our engine not much, it is there for the environment.

air is about 3/4 nitrogen, witch is normally an inert gas that flows into the engine and back out the exhaust doing nothing. , at 2500 degrees or so it can bond with oxygen and from various forms of NOx, these cause breathing problems in people with asthma. acid rain etc.

The idea is to mix in an inert filler into the combustion charge (exhaust gas) to keep the peak temperature below 2500 and keep the nitrogen inert.


assuming your egr valve is OK and keeps a seal all you have to do is remove and cap the two vac lines from the TB to the modulator and th EGR will be disabled, no need to remove all that stuff unless you want to, you woudl then need to trick the ECU as discussed in the other thread.

without flow #6 is not going to get much heat from the exhaust.

 

[Bear80]

Oh no! not the resistor thread........mine as well pull the cel bulb hahaha

 

[OGBeno]

Oh no! not the resistor thread........mine as well pull the cel bulb hahaha

That's what I did along with removing the ABS bulb as well. Works fine.

 

[bjowett]

With my EGR reroute I chose to block the passage so no exhaust has access to that passage. A disable or block off on the other side still allows plenty of exhaust and heat in there... bad for #6.

FYI, there's a freeze plug on the back of the intake manifold EGR passage. It runs right along the number 6 runner. It taps right into that EGR hole in the head. I had an extra manifold, so I pulled it from there. Find that size plug and you are set.