Valley Hybrids, Georg Estere. You would either need to tow it to Stockton or try to use some sort of liquid mechanic to nurse it up there. He does to notch work and will make right the first time.
Frank
Frank
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Sounds like a nice shop Frank, but really too far away. I've emailed the local shops SD Trux, Noah's, and a couple others to see what they have to say... I'll probably end up doing it myself, but might give it to a shop if the price and vibe are right.Valley Hybrids, Georg Estere. You would either need to tow it to Stockton or try to use some sort of liquid mechanic to nurse it up there. He does to notch work and will make right the first time.
Frank
Well SD Trux replied to my inquiry and said they're no longer working on older TLCs that haven't been in their shop before. Noah's Arks also replied and said no because they're booked through the end of the year. Putting together a shopping list now for the parts, considering Wits End for their one stop shopping on gasket kit(s)...Hopefully have a good experience. We never know when we will be next. Someone local would be great.
Frank
Thanks Nick -Check out MJM engines in esco, they are a machine shop and do general engine repair. I've used them for machine work with good results. To do it right, you'll want to have a machine shop check out the head and have it fully rebuilt as well as a trained eye look at the rest of the engine, to make sure no other looming problems are present. Toyotas are not known for eating head gaskets (if that is even what it is) for no reason. If you are intending to just slap a new head gasket without doing more diagnosis, you are potentially setting yourself up for massive disappointment and self induced suicide watch upon that first start up. A place like MJM is a one stop shop, they can do all the work and give you a piece of mind of a warranty backing up their work.
As far as re-using bolts and cutting other corners, don't do it. Follow the FSM and replace what is recommended especially head bolts, if you still plan on doing it yourself. Or if you use a shop insist they use OEM parts. When I dealt with them, I provided my own parts, mainly because it was easier for me to source since it was a diesel. But they seem reputable and all they do is work on engines.
Remember the saying, buy once, cry once.
Do I detect a business opportunity here?So today whilst dropping off parts that had arrived over the weekend I measured those head bolts myself... The spec in the FSM calls for a minimum diameter of 10.6mm and every single one of them was well under that, around 10.1mm.... Just reuse them, 'because that's what we always do', as per the tech at the shop? Homey don't think so... New bolts it is, and at an MSRP of $27.50 per bolt - ouch. Thankfully, Shane at Toyota of Escondido was willing to match the $20.00 per bolt price quoted by Norm Reeves Toyota near San Diego saving me that drive; and considering no shipping fees it's about the same deal as buying them for $18.50 from some place on the east coast paying $25-30 for shipping and waiting a week or two for them. Next time though I'll plan farther ahead though and get them at Partsouq in UAE for less than $10 plus about $30 in shipping...
From my strain-gaging days I recall aluminum CTE of about 13ppm/degF being double that of steel at about 6ppm/degF, or is there some other expansion going on?TTY have been used in the aircraft industry for ages and have been used in higher end vehicles such as Mercedes which run higher compression and typically see more stress than their lower power and lower compression counterparts. There is a very good reason for using these TTY's. When you stretch the bolt beyond yield, you not only preload tension since there is still elasticity passed yield (just less), but you also strain harden the bolt making it less likely to stretch in the future. The spring constant of the bolt is now higher and the bolt is less likely to settle over time as heat continues to anneal the hardened fastener. And, as Bud correctly points out, some elasticity is especially key in mixed metal engines or even in all aluminum engines with steel fasteners. Aluminum's coefficient of thermal expansion is about 4X that of steel.
If it were me, I'd stick with the TTY's unless there is some strong data showing the stud and bolt method can hold a gasket more than the 25+ years these fasteners have been in service. Another thing to consider, just because one used a stud and bolt doesn't mean the stud didn't also stretch. One would have to torque them, remove, and measure to know. Maybe someone has done that? Not sure.
Frank
Ok seems I failed to read where Mr T says to measure said head bolt diameters when concluding the bolts had been stretched (and therefore necked down) beyond the specified minimum diameter of 10.6mm... Some websites indicate that the location to measure a TTY bolt diameter is in the reduced shank region of the bolt between the threads and bolt head.So today whilst dropping off parts that had arrived over the weekend I measured those head bolts myself... The spec in the FSM calls for a minimum diameter of 10.6mm and every single one of them was well under that, around 10.1mm.... Just reuse them, 'because that's what we always do', as per the tech at the shop? Homey don't think so... New bolts it is, and at an MSRP of $27.50 per bolt - ouch. Thankfully, Shane at Toyota of Escondido was willing to match the $20.00 per bolt price quoted by Norm Reeves Toyota near San Diego saving me that drive; and considering no shipping fees it's about the same deal as buying them for $18.50 from some place on the east coast paying $25-30 for shipping and waiting a week or two for them. Next time though I'll plan farther ahead though and get them at Partsouq in UAE for less than $10 plus about $30 in shipping...