Getting a bad feeling here... (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Aug 31, 2005
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Escondido, CA
So perhaps y'all recall back a month or two ago I was catching the odd whiff of antifreeze here and there, usually not long after starting the truck, usually sitting at an intersection or stop sign... Well later, as in now, on cool mornings I been getting lumpy idle for the first few minutes after starting the truck almost to the point of stalling it out if I put it in gear... Once warmed up a little it starts and runs perfectly normally.

No CEL or other diagnostic codes on the OBDII.

So I've done my due diligence and checked the plugs which, all Iridiums that all look perfect color wise, had correct gap, etc.
Nevertheless, I changed the plug wires just since they were factory cables and likely never previously replaced. The rotor and distributor cap are nearly new changed a year or so ago and probably only 2000 miles since.

Oil changed within the past year and looks new. Also checked all the vacuum hoses which seem perfectly fine. Lastly, just for s***s and giggles I checked the IAC valve, even verifying its stepper motor works as expected.

However, I was low on antifreeze/coolant, as in empty reservoir and low in the radiator itself. So coolant is going somewhere, but there are no obvious leaks. I put half a gallon today into the reservoir and drove 10 miles or so and noted the truck was running hotter than usual - around 200 degrees; usually it's dead on 180 degrees unless it's hot outside and I'm loading the engine heavily in which case it might get up to 195 or so... Once stopped and cooled down, it drank in at least half of the reservoir coolant and the radiator looked more full and 'wetter'... Then when driving home another 7 miles or so, it got back up to the mid 190 degree range, but was cooling better when moving.

Now as 97's go, at only 165K, this is a relatively low mileage truck; but ...gulp... my brain is heading towards blown head gasket and coolant leaking into one or more of the cylinders... :frown:

Any way to confirm this possible diagnosis?

Maybe a compression test? A real live pain in the ass with deep seated plugs.

The only thing that comes to mind and what I experienced once on my old '82 Toyota pick up with its 22R motor was taking the radiator cap off and feeling for pressure pulses from the compression stroke...

Any other less problematic / less expensive / less difficult / less 'ah ****' diagnoses?

Anyone want to talk me off this ledge?
 
are you still getting whiffs of coolant? Wondering if you missed a small leak back y the firewall where the heater and phh are? I know that in older LCs the heater does not shut fully to keep fresh coolant flowing through the system and prevent sitting (and corroding). I'd check all the lines at the firewall and inside the truck as much as you can before exploring the head gasket.
 
You can do a combustion gas test in the radiator, that’s pretty easy to do, it’s a sure way to know if it’s the head gasket. Losing that much coolant and all your other symptoms sounds like a classic head gasket at best, crack in the head or elsewhere not out of the question.
 
You can do a combustion gas test in the radiator, that’s pretty easy to do, it’s a sure way to know if it’s the head gasket. Losing that much coolant and all your other symptoms sounds like a classic head gasket at best, crack in the head or elsewhere not out of the question.
Well look at the following video, and when placing my nose right at the radiator - yes, the popping bubbles smell of gasoline… ugh… :poop::poop:
 
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It would seem I am looking at a head gasket replacement project here. Woohoo! Great! What fun! Oh s***...
()
However, in watching OTRAMM's amazingly detailed video series on the process of removing the head from a 1FZ-FE engine I am sufficiently intimidated about my ability to do the project at my abode by myself. And his video was made with the engine removed from the truck making the job about 100 times easier - and this ain't my old '82 pick up and 22R motor...

Of course in the process of such a project I'll want to implement practical additional upgrades / repairs / preventive maintenance / "while you're at it" tasks (like injectors, PHH, fuel bar regulator and filter, etc, etc) that make sense while everything is disassembled.

Here are my questions -
  1. Can anyone recommend a reputable shop that they'd feel comfortable using for such a job?
    I'm kind of doubting my usual go-to shop of Brian's Automotive here in Escondido as being the best place for this. From my reading I'm gathering this is a $3K+ project at a shop. And the big problem with having a professional shop do the work is the lack of control and ability to add "while you're at it" tasks since they're going to want to get the truck in and out as quickly as possible.

  2. Anyone willing to host Bud's truck for the month or more that this is likely to take?
    I am willing, able and want to help in every aspect of the project, and willing to pay for space and help. I mean, it's gotta get done and the money is gonna get spent one way or the other; and I'd rather spend it with friends doing the job right than at some shop...

  3. Any other suggestions or ideas on the best way to get this job done properly in a timely and cost effective manner?
 
One positive is you're aware of the problem and can repair at the time and place of your choosing not stuck on the trail in BFE in 100 degrees or torrential downpour.
Very true Ralph, I was saying the same thing to Ted about that. In terms of truck mileage this easily could have happened during our Death Valley trip.

I've been reading about various chemical head gasket fixes such as Barrs, K-Seal, Blue Devil, etc as a possible stopgap measure to postpone the job. Some of the modern ones seem to work well if directions are followed to the letter and pose little to no risk of gumming up the works otherwise.
 
Those could be a possibility but (or should it be butt?) we all know that while sales advertisements tell you one thing the real salesman, Mr. Murphy, has a vastly different plan. If you don't choose to do the temp fix you will always be wondering is this the trip when it is going to grenade? Just think all the wonderful places it could happen, Lippincott, Rubicon, Saline Valley or even scenic Interstate 15 in rush hour. Let your Engineering past shine thru and just do it, you're going to eventually anyway. :cool: Sorry I should've gotten down off my soap box and Pm'd this.
 
Those could be a possibility but (or should it be butt?) we all know that while sales advertisements tell you one thing the real salesman, Mr. Murphy, has a vastly different plan. If you don't choose to do the temp fix you will always be wondering is this the trip when it is going to grenade? Just think all the wonderful places it could happen, Lippincott, Rubicon, Saline Valley or even scenic Interstate 15 in rush hour. Let your Engineering past shine thru and just do it, you're going to eventually anyway. :cool: Sorry I should've gotten down off my soap box and Pm'd this.
No, you're absolutely right Ralph, and those are the exact thoughts going through my brain when considering a snake oil treatment. And of course, I have to wonder if one of the previous owners might even have done the such a thing at some point, so then you're potentially putting a Band-Aid on a Band-Aid... but damn it is tempting to take the easy way out. Probably the only valid place for a snake oil is if you're offroad somewhere and need a Hail Mary to get you back to the pavement or home. Or have an old clunker headed to the junk yard and just want to squeeze another year out of it.
 
We did this on Sam's truck over the fall. Definitely a bit of work.

Frank
 
Part out?
 
Part out?
No, not gonna part it out just because of a head gasket... Doing a minimal repair and selling it at some inflated price is an option. Then use the proceeds for a new-ish Taco and put a nice camper shell on it.

The big question is, spend $1500-2000 for a home brew head job and ancillary items (like injectors, etc); or send it to a shop to do for $3-5K; or look into an full engine and maybe tranny swap since the transmission feels a little funky sometimes.

I wonder what it might cost to turbo-diesel the thing with a manual transmission?
 
No, not gonna part it out just because of a head gasket... Doing a minimal repair and selling it at some inflated price is an option. Then use the proceeds for a new-ish Taco and put a nice camper shell on it.

The big question is, spend $1500-2000 for a home brew head job and ancillary items (like injectors, etc); or send it to a shop to do for $3-5K; or look into an full engine and maybe tranny swap since the transmission feels a little funky sometimes.

I wonder what it might cost to turbo-diesel the thing with a manual transmission?
I was joking Bud. Don't you sell this rig!
 
Engine swaps seems to start at 5k and go from there by the time you are all in. A diesel 5 speed would be epic but be prepared to put in a lot of money and time. $10k is probably the best using a used engine. There aren't really used 5 speeds around so budget $3500 for trans, new clutch, etc... Exhaust will be another $1k. If you go with a newer engine, shipping from out of the USA, this could easily exceed $10k.

Frank
 
Engine swaps seems to start at 5k and go from there by the time you are all in. A diesel 5 speed would be epic but be prepared to put in a lot of money and time. $10k is probably the best using a used engine. There aren't really used 5 speeds around so budget $3500 for trans, new clutch, etc... Exhaust will be another $1k. If you go with a newer engine, shipping from out of the USA, this could easily exceed $10k.

Frank
Might as well go all in for an LS swap then, eh?
 
I would highly advise against any engine swaps in your situation, get the engine fixed the right way through a reputable source and keep enjoying it worry free.

Yup exactly. I did a 3FE swap on my old 60. That engine is a "bolt in swap". My take away from it is that engine swaps, even the "easy" ones, are a huge pandora's box of big and what seems like endless little details. There are definitely times when it makes sense. However, I think the 1FZE is a good, solid engine that will push an 80 at 80MPH down the highway. If you fix what you have, you have confidence the odds are vastly higher you will have a solid truck again much sooner.

Frank
 
I would highly advise against any engine swaps in your situation, get the engine fixed the right way through a reputable source and keep enjoying it worry free.
Yeah I know, I'm just goofing around and doubt that I'd seriously ever embark on an swap.

Problem is I don't know of any reputable shop that I'd trust to turnkey the job and catch the good "while you're in there" things without upselling unneeded bs. If y'all know of a shop that's trustworthy lemme know and I'll at least get a quote for the job from them. SD Trux? Noah's? The Truck Shop?

So, it's probably gonna be me doing it in the driveway here, I figure I can put a popup over the front for shade and take the front wheels off and set it on jack-stands to make it low enough to work on, given my height challenged condition.

What machine shop to send the head to? I remember taking my old 22R head to HDS here in Escondido some 25 years ago... Maybe Mesa... Both are practically walking distance and there are plenty to pick from along Auto Park Way industrial park...

Do I even bother getting the valves done or just clean it up, make sure it's flat, and put it back on with the new gasket? At only 165K miles this engine should still be in its infancy.
 

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