Gears with 35s or 37s

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cwb

Joined
Dec 5, 2002
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What's the optimal gearing for a SOA running 35s or 37s? My gears are still stock and I'm about to go up to at least 35s (probably 37s) and was wondering how big a sluggish dog it was going to be afterwards.
 
Here is a general guideline for axle gearing related questions.

All Land Cruisers came from the factory with 4.11 axle gearing other than 1979 and later FJ40 models and all FJ60 models which came with 3.73 axle gearing.
In 1988, FJ62 models were returned to 4.11 axle gearing.

For upgrades to FJ60s, use this guide to have
your axle gearing returned to stock ratios:

Stock 235 tires = 3.73 axle gearing
31" tires = 4.11 axle gearing
33" tires = 4.56 axle gearing
35" tires = 4.88 axle gearing
38" tires = 5.29 axle gearing*

*may require some grinding into the axle housing.

These gear ratios are approximate and will not bring your gear ratio exactly back to stock ratio but they should be somewhat similar.

For applying gear ratios to 4.11 ratios, use the same guide above but skip ahead to the next level.
 
35 DIV 28=1.25

1.25X3.70=4.65

so 456 would be a better choise if you drive on the hwy ... I have 456's and 33 and I top out at 60 at 3k RPM


also find out the REAL size of the tires you want most 35 are closer to 33 and so forth :beer:
 
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I have 37" MTR's and 5.29's. I think because I have a diesel that I'll be regearing to 4.56's.





TB
 
I've "35s" and 4.10
Paced a car with electronic speedo (could see numbers)
at 45 mph , my speedo was right on . . .

I've std 4 speed (H42), 1st gear is very short ( out of it in a heart beat), can easily skip 2nd,,,3rd is a long gear . . .
 
I have a 37" MTR SO bla bla bla .. 4.56 with Marks 8% reduction in HI, and drive my 37" 100km/h 2500 rpm.

P.D. I'm not sure that's my real speed.
 
Borrow a GPS - the newer ones a really accurate on straight-line speed.

When I had the stock drive train in my '84 with 33" MTRs (almost bald), it read about 10% low with 4.10s.
 
Tinker said:
Borrow a GPS - the newer ones a really accurate on straight-line speed.

When I had the stock drive train in my '84 with 33" MTRs (almost bald), it read about 10% low with 4.10s.

you are right .. need to borrow one ..
 
Im thinking of regearing too. I have 3.7s and will be running 35"s for the first time very soon. I have also just done an LT1 transplant so am unsure of what to expect gearing wise. I had a 3f and h55f with 33s and stock gears and it use to sit just under 2500 rpm at 100kmph, however where the 3f ran to 4500 redline, the LT1 does 6000, so am tending towards gearing a little higher than just getting back to stock ie 4.88s. Comments?.......
 
35's and 4.88s? heck no.....hell no. inless is just for trail use or ya only like going 40 mph.

4.88's and a true 38 puts the tack right on the money. I dont know bout you, but i like a lil over drive so i went with the 4.56's and now it feels i need bigger tires...
 
lowtideride said:
35's and 4.88s? heck no.....hell no. inless is just for trail use or ya only like going 40 mph.

4.88's and a true 38 puts the tack right on the money. I dont know bout you, but i like a lil over drive so i went with the 4.56's and now it feels i need bigger tires...
Really? I guess Im just going off the quoted gearing/tyre sizes at the beginning of this thread, that and the fact I have the H55F tranny and the LT1 is gonna rev ALOT easier than the 3F... Maybe 4.56s?....
 
LT1-62 said:
Really? I guess Im just going off the quoted gearing/tyre sizes at the beginning of this thread, that and the fact I have the H55F tranny and the LT1 is gonna rev ALOT easier than the 3F... Maybe 4.56s?....

LT1 + H55F + 35" = 4.11 DD and good High way economy.

LT1 + H55F + 35" = 4.56 DD regular fuel economy, but more gearing, maybe some easy rocks.

Your like the rocks or mud .. ?
 
Tapage said:
LT1 + H55F + 35" = 4.11 DD and good High way economy.

LT1 + H55F + 35" = 4.56 DD regular fuel economy, but more gearing, maybe some easy rocks.

Your like the rocks or mud .. ?

I like mud and rocks. Im building my truck as an expedition vehicle so it will see quite a bit of both worlds, and a lot of road too... I think I will jsut wait and see how it drives with the 3.7s, and if only a modest regearing is needed I might swap in a rear 4.1 80 axle and match to the front...
 
LT1-62 said:
I like mud and rocks. Im building my truck as an expedition vehicle so it will see quite a bit of both worlds, and a lot of road too... I think I will jsut wait and see how it drives with the 3.7s, and if only a modest regearing is needed I might swap in a rear 4.1 80 axle and match to the front...

All US model FJ62 trucks came with 4.11 gearing. The FJ60 model trucks came with 3.73.

If you have 3.73 gearing, it is not US spec. If you actually have 3.73 gears, and you need to go to 4.11 - just swap in standard FJ62 third members. NBD.

M
 
Mike S said:
All US model FJ62 trucks came with 4.11 gearing. The FJ60 model trucks came with 3.73.

If you have 3.73 gearing, it is not US spec. If you actually have 3.73 gears, and you need to go to 4.11 - just swap in standard FJ62 third members. NBD.

M
Thanks Mike, yeah my FJ62 is a jap import ('86), round headlights and all. My diffs are 3.7s with full float rear. I was thinking of doing an 80 series axle swap anyway as soon as the finances recover from engine conversion...
 
my speedo is just about right on with 4.11's and 33's...it's also a great ratio. 4.56's were killing me. they didn't make it past moab last year. hated em. love em in my soa/36" fj40 though. hth
 
LT1-62 said:
Thanks Mike, yeah my FJ62 is a jap import ('86), round headlights and all. My diffs are 3.7s with full float rear. I was thinking of doing an 80 series axle swap anyway as soon as the finances recover from engine conversion...

That's an oppty to swap in axles with locking diffs. The 80 axles are wider than the FJ60 axles, so you might want to check dimensions and develop a plan for the swap. The FERG on this board swapped an 80 axle into his 60 series, and may have a write-up on it. I expect you could sell your current FF rear axle without a problem... and recoup some of the cost.
 
Mike S said:
That's an oppty to swap in axles with locking diffs. The 80 axles are wider than the FJ60 axles, so you might want to check dimensions and develop a plan for the swap. The FERG on this board swapped an 80 axle into his 60 series, and may have a write-up on it. I expect you could sell your current FF rear axle without a problem... and recoup some of the cost.
Yeah, thats the plan, I have actually talked to a few people about it, including the boston mangler. I was looking hard at doing a rear disc swap on my truck but to be road legal in NZ you have to have a cable activated hand brake. Enter the 80 series rear end WITH rear discs, WITH factory e locker, WITH 4.1s and WITH hand brake (sorry e-brake). Even if you pay a bit for the axle thats a lot of upgrades... :) . Only thing stopping me is money, and the fact Id need all new wheels (just dropped $1500 on wheels) = more money. Biding my time.....
 
Gotcha'. Kinda like "In for a penney, in for a pound." I see the logic of getting complete 80 series axle, as opposed to a piecemeal build up.

... Only thing stopping me is money...

It's OK. Always good to consider the alternative solutions that might cost less.

M
 
LT1-62 said:
Yeah, thats the plan, I have actually talked to a few people about it, including the boston mangler. I was looking hard at doing a rear disc swap on my truck but to be road legal in NZ you have to have a cable activated hand brake. Enter the 80 series rear end WITH rear discs, WITH factory e locker, WITH 4.1s and WITH hand brake (sorry e-brake). Even if you pay a bit for the axle thats a lot of upgrades... :) . Only thing stopping me is money, and the fact Id need all new wheels (just dropped $1500 on wheels) = more money. Biding my time.....

I would think that FINDING that rear end would be the hard part. Not paying for it. Only 7% of 80's came to North America with lockers. Now find one of those wrecked.

Good luck Chuck.



TB :doh:
 

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