Gasket job on oilpan no. 1&2 =$485.00

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Forget the toyota FIPG. Get yourself some Permatex " The Right Stuff " and do it yourself.

It's on my trans pan and oil pan. No leaks - easy to use - just don't over do it. We're talking five minutes and you are in business.

The busted stud on the oil pan - unless it's in a critical position forget about it and let the gasket material take care of it.

It ain't rocket science. Whatever you wear though plan on tossing it if you get a lot of ATF on you. Stuff reaks and won't come out.

There's no ATF filter to replace. Spray the stock metal one out with BPC and put it back.

If you really want to get fancy search for ATF fluid filter change from coolant line. I've done it several times - I don't think it's worth the trouble if you follow up with another drain and refill in a reasonable amount of time.
 
Forget the toyota FIPG. Get yourself some Permatex " The Right Stuff " and do it yourself.

It's on my trans pan and oil pan. No leaks - easy to use - just don't over do it. We're talking five minutes and you are in business.

The busted stud on the oil pan - unless it's in a critical position forget about it and let the gasket material take care of it.

It ain't rocket science. Whatever you wear though plan on tossing it if you get a lot of ATF on you. Stuff reaks and won't come out.

There's no ATF filter to replace. Spray the stock metal one out with BPC and put it back.

If you really want to get fancy search for ATF fluid filter change from coolant line. I've done it several times - I don't think it's worth the trouble if you follow up with another drain and refill in a reasonable amount of time.

Just curious as to why you would recommend something besides Toyota gasket material? FPIG holds up really well and has gone 200k plus on my rig.

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Besides the Fipg or right stuff, there is a o ring that goes between the upper oil pan and the timing cover. Has this guy done this job before? There are some threads on this, search is your friend. Basically the motor mounts need to be unbolted from the frame and then engine needs to be lifted or jacked up to do this job. It typically take me about 6 hrs to do this. One also needs to remove the sway bar and front drive line to make it easier.
Fun job.
 
i had the valve cover gasket, oil pans 1&2 and the distributor gasket all done for $700 out the door. Granted the mechanic was a friend of mine, so i got hooked up a little. but i think the FSM calls for 5.5 hours of Labor for the oil pans alone. If i had the time i would have done them myself, but with a toddler in the house. . . . . . . price was just right! :-)
 
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Just curious as to why you would recommend something besides Toyota gasket material? FPIG holds up really well and has gone 200k plus on my rig.

FPIG is fine. I just don't want to wait for it to fully cure. I'm impatient and want stuff back together fast on jobs like these. Permatex " The Right Stuff " is set up and done in five minutes. Used some first back around 2005 or so and never went back to anyhting else.

Wise to practice with it a little though on some cardboard before using. Stuff is pressurised and wil make a mess if you get carried away. Makes it easy to apply though.

The product promotes a 0ne minute set up time. I like to give it five. One minute for a good reliable gasket - it's good stuff with multiple application uses. Thats hard to beat.
 
Once Fipg skims, it is resistant to oil. So I do not understand the thought process on this. But to each his own. I have usually only waited to add oil and coolant the time it takes to put parts together. I have never had a problems with leaks ever. Example, the oil pans, By the time one puts the upper pan on and then the lower pan, bolts everything back up (the AC bracket needs to come off and some Trans oil line bolts, etc). Hooking back up the drive line, and the sway bar. a good 2 hrs goes by. Plenty of time to allow the outer parts of the FIPG to skim hard and not allow oil to create a leak of any kind.
 
Like I said - I like FIPG - there's nothing wrong with it. I just used this other Permatex stuff on a tranny pan one time and I liked the way it applied and the speed to setting. Guess I got "sold ". I was skeptical but the stuff really does set in one minute.
 
I used a typical RTV sealant, as long as you have the final tightening done under about half an hour it will seal up just fine, leave for a couple of hours and call it job done. TBH having just one stud busted on the oil pan is unlikely to cause a problem, once the sealant is set the pan will stay there there with most of the bolts missing the stuff is that good!

regards

Dave
 

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