FZJ105 -> HDJ105

[wedgetail]

Ok here’s a video of the first start attempt. This was a genuine first go but I did crack the injectors lines first to check I was getting fuel and reduce cranking time.


I had also already cranked it a fair bit with the spill driver unplugged to get oil pressure up (came up to 35psi just in the starter). There’s no dash still just a mechanic oil pressure gauge. All that is still to come with fitting the update dash to the car without loom swapping...

The conversion is still far from over but I feel much more relaxed about it now I’m over the first major hurdle. With some help via email I’ve done all the wiring myself so far and now have a pretty good understanding of the whole management system, even if there are a few unknowns to do with the transmission signals...

I could go into a few wiring details if anyone’s interested? But for the moment my main question is regarding the neutral start switch/signals: what happens if you drive an auto ecu while the NSW signal to the ecu tells it it’s still in p or n? A diagnostic document suggests it’s adjusting afr to optimise Idling. But it’s also getting a signal it’s in D (now hooked up to the clutch switch as is correct in any manual ecu). Has anyone experienced running issues like this? Brian at PDI assured me from experience it would be fine but the diagnostic doc sort of contradicts that!

 

[wedgetail]

OK finally have time for an update. It's been pretty hectic and I've seriously been in the dog house for it taking too long (I vaguely said it would take a week and two weekends before I started). But we took it for its maiden voyage yesterday arv and it was awesome. Apart from a possible boost leak (more on this later).

So had some pretty last weekend I got the exhaust made (from a used 3" rodeo and HZJ75 system). Then moved to the instruments early in the week. I pin swapped the plugs (every single pin was different) and brought the multiplex feed in from the ecu. It was fairly lengthy - probably 1.5-2 hours planning the pin swap looking at the manual then 4 hours executing it and getting it in. All the same colours made it interesting but they do have tiny pin numbers printed on them. Some of these had worn off in the donor loom I noticed (not relevant for me) but luckily all legible in the fzj. I marked each plug cluster of wires to the plug number for later reference/trouble shooting.

Plugged it in and all good bar the sub changeover (wrong pin - cluster back out and change, all good). A few minor issues but otherwise it works great. The oil pressure gauge is sick - it registers it has pressure but only occasionally moves off 1/4 - I've verified it has great pressure with a mech gauge so not going to chase this at moment - could just be an oily contact. The drivers seat belt warning is backwards - flashes plugged in and off unplugged. Might just disconnect it... The 4wd indicator doesn't work but that's not a cluster issue - when I ground the feed it lights up. Again not a high priority at the moment and 4wd does work.

But the perspex surround is broken - the corner trim is missing and the bottom mount screw tabs are snapped. My old pre update perspex will fit but I'll have to drill a new hole for the odo bottom and blank the old one but that's ok. Also it's an auto cluster so tells me its in D all the time unless I press the clutch (indicator lights are obviously a MP signal from the ECU). I'd love to get a cover plate from a manual cluster but it's not a separate item. Will do something at some point. Otherwise it all works as it should and looks awesome!

Mounted the boost/pyro in front of the gear stick. Have been put off pods by potential defects and they fit nicely.

Had to clearance the steel shifter boot support plate but hopefully there's still enough meat.

Pretty pleased with looks (even better at night) but I need to hit the trim with the heat gun and flatten the area immediately round the gauges to make it meet the bezels.

SRS light is still on but saying no current codes. The convoluted light clearing sequence with no tool got the better of me so I'll just get it scanned when it goes in for AC gas/engine no update.

Still got a fair bit of tidying to do particularly under the bonnet. There's quite a few aftermarket accessory wires without a home yet and other little things but it became very apparent I had to get this on the road ASAP or I was going to end up with some major domestic issues...

So on the still-to-do list are:
Replace dash cluster cover
Reconnect driving lights
Reconnect rear work light
Re-fit dual battery system (redarc VSR, battery and wiring)
Reconnect diff locks including factory switch and lights
Fit prado sub tank
Change speedo drive gears (and the rear seal I replaced is still leaking
-Awesome )
Sort out why CDL indicator isn't working
Sort out why reverse signal isn't coming through
Connect external temp gauge
Sort the (I think) boost leak:

 

[wedgetail]

So I took it for a drive to a mates for dinner yesterday, first real drive. Went well - power was great. Didn't push you back in the seat like a sports car but on hills where the HZJ105 was labouring in 4th, this is in 5th and put the foot down and it surges ahead!

However - it whines. I didn't notice it on the way out (my wife did she said that's an annoying noise) but on the way back there was a whine from the turbo. Not very loud, but not a normal whistle either. Only came on at about 9-10 psi where it changed not from a nice whistle to a high pitched whine. Boost peaked at about 11 but I wasn't pushing it as hard was I could I suspect I could have got it to 12 but the noise level did increase with boost. I checked over the clamps this morning and a couple tightened a little but weren't that loose. Checked the intake manifold and nuts and factory intake nuts all tight. Didn't check anything exhaust side. What do other 100 ftes boost to stock?

It's hard to ask without hearing it but does this sort of thing sound more intake, exhaust or turbo? Turbo had a little radial play but no longitudinal, but haven't checked since this drive. I've ask my wife to listen out again but I sort of am stuck with this for a little while - I don't think I can touch it for a good few weeks (so about 5k km) unless there's a major incident

 

[mudgudgeon]

You're married. An annoying whine is normal.
Usually comes from front passenger seat area.



I had a split wastegate line once and the noise sounded like a pair of tomcats fighting.
Not quite a squeal, not quite a whine, but it change as boost went up

 

[wedgetail]

wouldn't that overboost then?

In this case the passenger seat whine is related though...

 

[mudgudgeon]

not necessarily. a split can cause some, but not necessarily all boost to escape.

a split can be enough to give you a whine / squeak, kind of like the noise you can make releasing air slowly from a kids party balloon

 

[mudgudgeon]

congrats on getting it on the road too, must feel good?

 

[wedgetail]

Yeah I see your point. I did have all them off as I replaced the turbo and T’d a boost controller (not turned on yet), I’ll check them out. Not a lot of room in that area any more though...

Yes feels very good to have it done and goes like buggery now too. This is putting a bit of a damper on it now as I’m mildly concerned it might be the turbo and at the very least means dumping more time into it which I’ll really cop it over. And it’s back into regular use of almost 1k km a week so any problem will magnify fast and I can’t just let it sit...

 

[mudgudgeon]

I'd be hunting for a boost leak ASAP so you can eliminate it as an issue. If its the turbo, you need to deal with is ASAP too. After all your hard work, a blown turbo out on the road is the last thing you want.

@gerg suggests using cigarette smoke in the plugged up intake, and compressed air to check for boost leaks. Smoke will give a visual indication of here a boost leak is.

 

[mudgudgeon]

just a little tip, if you haven't already, chuck some sound insulation or carpet underlay over the top of the trans tunnel, and as tight around the gear shifter as you can.

I've done this on a couple of cruisers now, and it's surprising how much it cuts down on noise and heat transfer into the cab.

 

[wedgetail]

I'd be hunting for a boost leak ASAP so you can eliminate it as an issue. If its the turbo, you need to deal with is ASAP too. After all your hard work, a blown turbo out on the road is the last thing you want.

yeah the annoying thing is you're absolutely right... Thing is - it might actually take a blown turbo for me to "find time" to look into it... Although I'm also think rig up an air fitting with a ball valve into the filter hose, regulate it to 20 psi (via boost gauge) and go round with a squirty detergent bottle. Shouldn't take that long...

You've now reminded me I've removed that trans tunnel carpet and didn't put it back in!! I'll pull it back out again to fit the work light switch and temp gauge anyway though so will make sure I put it back in then

 

[wedgetail]

turns out it seems it was just those clamps! Did another 250km in it on tuesday and wasn't making any noises apart from the delicious muffled whistle. Couldn't wipe the smile off my face every time I accelerated and I think my wife is getting sick of me driving like a 20 y/o!

Now I can wire the boost gauge up and wind it up to just below boost cut...

 

[mudgudgeon]

Couldn't wipe the smile off my face every time I accelerated and I think my wife is getting sick of me driving like a 20 y/o!

There go those fuel savings!

 

[wedgetail]

Yeah might need to wait till the excitement wares off... Although my wife drives it a fair bit more, and that first 300km returned 11.8 l/100km so not too bad

 

[wedgetail]

Well bit of an update. Done 20k so far and it’s running better than ever. Used a bit of oil (500ml) it seemed in the first 10k but none in the second. Power is great, still can’t get over it actually goes significantly better than a stock vdj79. Economy is around 12.3 l/100 (lost about 0.5 going from atz 4 rib to toyo Rt). The turbsmart stage one boost controller gives me 15.93 psi max, can't get the EGTs over 550 however hard I try, intake temp is 15-20* above ambient. Hottest I've had it is 84*C and that's foot flat, 5th gear at the top of a long hard hill EGTs 500, AC on, ambient 40* and a full 5 person family+luggage.

I have ticked a few items off the above list, like fitting hella 4000s with an 4300k hid kit, reinstating the second battery, modyfying and fitting a waeco slide for the new 80l trailbaza, 2017 oem stereo and re shaping the exhaust round the rear diff (it was hitting).

Just spent the weekend servicing at catching up on little jobs - new turbo flange gaskets (leaking - showing me I must get a catch can), air filter restriction gauge (watch this space), trying to sort of aux wiring (still a bit of a rats nest), changing the dash cluster screen, fitting diff lock indicator bulb holders with independent wires and the bloody srs light...

At first I thought it was the dc-dc circuit in the srs module (it gives an error light with no code). The feeds measured ok but then I realised the light wasn’t behaving normally - it was off initially then on after 6 seconds. This is back to front from normal behaviour. Techstream had no errors showing. The LA pin at the module was showing 8v, the fsm has this as a globe or globe circuit fault. I pulled the pin to the globe and this dropped to 0v. I had better things to do than pull the dash and cluster apart so just earthed c17 pin 3 (how a non airbag vehicle is wired) and no more light. I’ll just plug techstream in every service to check for codes.

 

[wedgetail]

So FTEs still ticking away. Finally got the prado sub tank installed - 180L all up so 1500km on road range in theory...

The prado pick up is weird - the big 14mm pipe is actually a return. Or it was until I brazed a bit of pipe on the end of it... No restrictions here please

Extended the HDJ100 sender rather than use the prado as it has two wires as opposed the to original's three, so wasn't sure if the low fuel light would work. Welded some HT fence wire in, also quicker and easier than splicing the wires or pin swapping and ending up with about 1000mm too much cable.

I had to move a wire in tank loom plug at the loom. That blue/whiter wire moved from the edge in one.

Made a couple of cradles to tighten the top of the tank against out of 32x5mm flat bar

Tied the straps together to stop them spreading and slipping off the tank - prado spacing is slightly less so they don't stay in the groove

Used the 100 straps as well and joined them with a chain link style joiner.

Finally now it's in and firm, all plumbed and wired and working 100%

Next up - TPMS that links to the double DIN radio and right hand wheel carrier...

 

[mudgudgeon]

Nice work. I used a Prado tank in mine too

 

[wedgetail]

Thanks mate. Pretty pleased with it - done 1k km in it so far all good. Only thing is I reckon it only took 86L all up, although maybe I could have got a bit more if I feathered the filler gun

 

[wedgetail]

Well happy birthday hdj105... a year and 50k on and it’s been pretty much flawless. Biggest issue has been an alternator death, which annoyingly due to time restraints I had to fit an oex. Trying to find a good stator to rebuild it, along with a new diode pack.

Finally fitted the other spare carrier. Got it for $150 but had to make the mount bracket under the bumper which I WAY underestimated...

Also the dig options TPMS - very pleased with this, works fantastically and integrates perfectly with the factory radio.

Got back a couple of weeks from a trip out west. Went through Cameron’s corner to the strzelecki, then Oodnadatta, bit of highway then mulga park road to Uluru/kings canyon then back down the highway. Awesome trip, although fully unpacking the car, pitching the tent, lighting the fire to cook dinner then packing up again on the morning every single day didn’t leave a lot of time for relaxing... but relaxing’s overated anyway! The Cameron corner to strzelecki track was cool but the Oodnadatta was my favourite part. Tibooburra, Maree and Oodnadatta were cool, found Lyndhurst bit of a hole...

6300km all up with probably 2.5-3k of that pretty healthy corrugations. 105 ate it all without breaking a sweat - don’t want to know what we weighed but with 60L if water, 180L of fuel, 80 trailblaza, the five of us, two spares, two cast iron camp ovens etc. we would have been heavy but returned 14l/100 which I feel was ok. Biggest mechanical drama was losing the rear number plate (my bracket fatigued off - never realised they need so much bracing!) or a koni 88 failing (sent back for warranty).

 

[Olkid]

Hi wedgetail
Great read mate well done!!!
Not sure if you can help me or not? I have just put an 02 hdj100 fte in my 99 fzj105 I used the hey engine bay loom, dash loom, ignition, immobilser module, original key and earthed the spill module.
Went to start it yesterday and I don't have power to the injector pump?
Any help would be very much appreciated