Fuse pull test by electrical dummy

[lxj1]

I might have missed it, but what makes you think you have a draw? Start with the basics and make sure your battery and charging system are operating properly.

What is your battery voltage after you shut down the motor?

How about 12-24 hours later?

With the engine running, what voltage are you getting at the battery?

Brand new battery at 12.7v. After the car has sat 4 hours the battery goes under 12.4v. Drive it around the neighborhood and it’s back to 12.6 to 12.7 range after car cools down.

Ammeter in line shows over 0.5A when everything is shutdown.

I believe my charging system is good.

 

[Rebus Knebus]

Does your rig have the fusible link block mounted on the positive battery terminal? If it does, then you could at least narrow things down by doing the “fuse pull” test, but instead of pulling fuses disconnect each of the fusible link connections (4 connectors across the bottom and 1 screw terminal on the top, at least on mine). Once you know which terminal of the fusible link has the draw, use the electrical wiring diagram to see what’s connected to that terminal of the fusible link.

 

[lxj1]

Does your rig have the fusible link block mounted on the positive battery terminal? If it does, then you could at least narrow things down by doing the “fuse pull” test, but instead of pulling fuses disconnect each of the fusible link connections (4 connectors across the bottom and 1 screw terminal on the top, at least on mine). Once you know which terminal of the fusible link has the draw, use the electrical wiring diagram to see what’s connected to that terminal of the fusible link.

Hmm. In that box on the positive battery terminal I have a 7.5a fuse and two fusible links. And I can’t pull those fusible links out. Do I need to just put more muscle into it or are these the type that are bolted on?

Is it even possible that the draw cannot be found after pulling every possible fuse?

Do I have to pull the relays as well? I’ve already done that but curious if that is necessary.

 

[medtro]

Pulling and inserting fuses might have waken up the system from sleep mode. Try the method suggested by @CorporalClegg and see if you have better luck.

 

[KillerBox]

I think over 50% of the time most parasitic draws are caused by the CD headunit or auxiliary DVD units trying to eject a disc. This can happen when no discs are even in the units and with the ignition completely off.

If I remember correctly there is a separate fuse for each unit because some 100 series didn't come with an auxiliary DVD player and I would start by pulling those fuse(s).

 

[Rebus Knebus]

Hmm. In that box on the positive battery terminal I have a 7.5a fuse and two fusible links. And I can’t pull those fusible links out. Do I need to just put more muscle into it or are these the type that are bolted on?

Sounds like yours is different then. Later models had something like this pic, where you can easily remove the 4 connectors across the bottom. FYI, you’ll get better advice if you put your model and year in your signature.

 

[lxj1]

I may be making progress. I couldn’t figure out how to use my multimeter for the “voltage drop test with battery plugged in” so I just did the fuse pull test again but this time pulling multiple fuses at a time.

Turns out the draw is gone when I pull fuse 14 (radio) and 17 (ECU B1) simultaneously but not individually. What does that mean? What is my next step?

Note that someone here previously identified the CD cassette as a possible culprit. Also note my passenger front lock has been glitchy when I use the keyfob as well as the drivers button.

FYI here are the circuit descriptions

 

[lxj1]

Bump

 

[lxj1]

This may be solved, somewhat.

To recap, the fuse pull test showed fuse 14 (radio) and 17 (ECU B1) as the source of the parasitic draw of 560 mA. Strange thing is that the draw disappears only when BOTH fuses are pulled, not individually.

Since the CD changer and door locks are on those circuits and appear to be common culprits, I went for the easiest solution which was to unplug the CD changer.

I didn’t want to remove the CD changer (yet), just unplug it so here’s how I did it since I was not able to find existing info.

Step 1: Remove center console bezel. I just used a screwdriver carefully at the four clips. Here’s the two on the driver side. I believe you can use a screwdriver to push in the silver part but I wasn’t that precise and it still worked.

You don’t need to remove anything else. Just lift up the console and you should have room.

Step 2: Unplug the CD changer. Here’s a view looking backwards under the console. There are two white plugs in the top left of this photo. I unplugged the one on the right which I BELIEVE is the CD changer

And I know you hate removing those plugs as much as I do, especially when you can’t see them so here’s what it looks like.

In this picture the part you have to push down is at the center bottom of the plug. You’ll have to use the tip of your thumb or even thumbnail depending on how sausage-like your fingers are. Definitely helps to have small hands.

So that’s it. I now have all my fuses back in and the draw is at a reasonable 40 mA, down from 560. My door locks are still glitchy but I’m hoping that’s a separate issue I’ll tackle later.