Fuse block replacement/upgrade

[PWCO70crusier]

I have a 1970 FJ40 and I'm working on the wiring system. I'm thinking of replacing the OEM glass fuse block with a blade version. Does anybody have any recommendations? I would like to keep the stock wiring set up, with something simple to replace what I have (the gas pedal keeps sparking wires) so its a bit safer. Thanks...

 

[78fj40mg]

How does the gas pedal spark the wires when the fuse block is located on the left hand side of the clutch pedal? Assuming you have a LHD vehicle.

 

[Poser]

There is not anything that is going to be simple or plug and play with this modification.

Secure the wires out of the way and make sure the pedal is not bent. Further, if the throttle pedal assembly is worn, rework it or replace it.

 

[Poser]

How does the gas pedal spark the wires when the fuse block is located on the left hand side of the clutch pedal? Assuming you have a LHD vehicle.

Fuse block was not on the DS A pillar until 09/71, 1972 model year.

 

[Healey]

Blue Sea?

https://www.bluesea.com/products/5026/ST_Blade_Fuse_Block_-_12_Circuits_with_Negative_Bus_and_Cover

http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Syst...se+Block&pebp=1422057077717&peasin=B001P6FTHC

 

[Poser]

Will have to splice the original harness to make that work.

They are nice fuse blocks and I have used those and ones sold by Waytek many times, however, they are not conducive to retaining a stock harness.

 

[Coolerman]

You just need the right Blue Sea Part #! No splicing required!
It's Part #5035 6 circuit plus you will need Part #9217 jumper kit. It can be configured to be exactly like the OEM block as far as which circuits are hot all the time and which are key switched. It will also fit exactly where the OEM block fits except it will be turned slightly due to mounting hole offsets. If you are willing to drill new holes it will fit perfectly.

 

[Captn Conch]

You just need the right Blue Sea Part #! No splicing required!
It's Part #5035 6 circuit plus you will need Part #9217 jumper kit. It can be configured to be exactly like the OEM block as far as which circuits are hot all the time and which are key switched.

Hey Coolerman! I like that deal and it is very reasonable on Amazon prime. I've never dinked with a fuse block before. I'm not up on jumpers either and I have been trying to figure how the jumpers are connected and how it would convert over to the needs of my '71 FJ40. Any pics or diagrams possible? I checked the schematics but I need the "explain it to grandma version."

 

[Coolerman]

Order the fuse block and jumper kit. You will also need some 15 amp and 20 amp ATC blade style fuses.

Disconnect the battery: Both + and -. You have been warned!!!

Remove your OEM fuse block from the firewall. One side of your OEM fuse block is the "input" There will only be two wires on this side, one straight from the alternator power feed circuit (white wire/blue stripe). (This wire is ALWAYS HOT and feeds the headlight/brake/hazard circuits.) and one black wire from the key switch ie the key switched feed. This feeds the turn signal and other circuits that are only powered when the key switch is in the on position. Lets call the side with only two wires the A terminals and the other side the B terminals.

The Blue Sea fuse block has 6 terminal on each side. Choose the side (make it the same side as the OEM or the wires will not reach!!!) you want to be the input side. This will be the A terminal side. Install four jumpers as follows: Assume the top is Terminal #1A. Install a jumper from Terminal #1A to Terminal # 2A. Then another jumper from Terminal # 2A to Terminal # 3A. Next install a jumper from Terminal #4A to Terminal #5A, Then install a jumper from Terminal # 5A to Terminal #6A.

Now remove the White/Blue wire from the OEM fuse block and install it on Terminal #2A. Now the White/Blue wire is providing power to the top three fuse positions. Remove the Black wire form the OEM fuse block and install it on Terminal #5A. Now the black wire is providing key switched power to the bottom three fuse positions.

Now remove the wires on the other side of the OEM block one at a time, and place them in the same terminal position on the Blue Sea Block B side. You will notice that Terminal #3B on the other side is not used in most cases. It is a spare fuse and you can power things like a radio from that fuse. Use a 15 amp fuse here. Refer to the FSM for what size fuses go where. I'm not in a position to look that up for you...

Note: The Blue Sea 5035 comes with a cover and blank labels. Use a permenent marker to write on the labels, then affix them to the cover so you will know what fuse protects what circuit.

 

[Captn Conch]

OK. I can handle it. That is a big help.
Thank You!