Changing coil springs aren't something I would bother with. Accumulators are what do majority of the heavy lifting. That and a good flush will have things as good as new. That work doesn't really overlap with messing with the coilovers which will likely be good for some many more miles.
Full suspension refresh for lx highway warrior. Suggestions? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter striddly
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Changing coil springs aren't something I would bother with. Accumulators are what do majority of the heavy lifting. That and a good flush will have things as good as new. That work doesn't really overlap with messing with the coilovers which will likely be good for some many more miles.
Why replace the springs? In your experience, what happens to them to warrant replacing?OEM everything if your AHC is in working order. You’ll be hard pressed to find something aftermarket that is as hwy compliant.
AHC Accumulators
AHC Fluid flush
New springs
Shocks if leaking, otherwise leave them alone
UCA and LCA will get you new ball joints in front, personally made a big difference in my truck
outer tie rods
Sway bar links up front
Rear links and track bar
Spring isolators in rear
I’d also replace hub / bearing assemblies in front. Rears only if making noise.
And swap to something like a Michelin defender
All springs get tired and will lose height and their load carrying ability. This is masked on AHC trucks because of its ability to self level. Over time as the springs get tired you are asking AHC to do more.
Huge concern? No. But OP asked what a refresh looked like. If I where doing refresh, springs are and easy while you are in there.
I'm in the process of doing my 2011 200 series LC 195,000 miles. I did Koni shocks and struts and upper ball joints first. I damaged the upper ball joints when doing struts. I used Sanki's from cruiser teq for the ball joints. Now I'm doing the lower control arms. Getting them out is a real struggle. Ended up having to cut them out. Found Sanki lower control arms on Parts Geek web site. When they arrived they had Toyota part numbers on them and were less then 1/2 price of Toyota's. Identicle to original. I could not press the ball joints out of the original control arms (broke my breaker bar). I'm retired and the LC is up on stands going on 5 days while I wait on parts. Just doing one side at a time hoping the right side goes considerably faster due to knowledge gained from a frustrating left side. 3/4 air tool was not enough to remove lower control arm. Carbide $22.00 sawz all blade is what did the trick to remove.
Hey Jim....another old guy here. I have a 2010 with 150K and am wanting to do a refresh on suspension for better body roll and handling. How are the Sanki LCA's working out? Which Koni's did you go with front and rear? Do you have a front spacer? Thanks in Advance...John
do you have your build link? what wheels are you using for 12.5?
I did the toyota spacer: found them on ebay. maybe 1 inch lift in front, not much but I'm happy. I'm running Koni 88s up front with 360 degree turn. Out back I'm running the 90's with 180degree turn. I'm thinking if I did it again I would not do any turn on the rears. The Sanki's from parts geek were identical to the originals. the right side that was less money was probably due to not passing Toyota assembly specs. The ball joint was rotated a little that made setting the cotter pin different. Not on an assembly line or robots doing the repair. I did the struts first but would suggest different. If you are doing your own wrenching. Make sure you can neutralize the KDSS system!!!!! Getting the Lower control arms out was a struggle they were rusted solid. Once they are out of the way getting the struts out and in should be easier than my experience. I just did the upper ball joints and tie rod ends with parts from Cruiser Outfitters (Teq) the upper ball joints popped out pretty easy with a press. . I drive in the Cascades and the LC is considerably flatter in the curves. Not a sports car, but much nicer, and firmer. some small squekes dissapeared too.
I do not have a build thread, but I basically just followed this thread to make clearance for my tires.
Fitting Full Fat 35x12.5 on an LX
Join along as I work through making the necessary clearance mods for 35x12.5R20s tires on my LX. These Toyo AT3s spec out to be 34.5" x 12.5". If you have any suggestions, I'm interested in hearing. Note that this fitment is specific to the LX as it's easier to fit larger and wider tires...
forum.ih8mud.com
Many thanks for your reply and suggestions.
