Fuel Bobber, Sender or something else? (1 Viewer)

[JDub03LC]

Hello all—I am having an issue where my '03 LC is erratic in my fuel info. The fuel gauge and the "info"/"miles remaining" information gets wonky at times. And it's not always like my analog gauge and the digital readout agree.

Example: Yesterday I refueled to a full tank and the analog gauge showed full tank and the "info/miles remaining" digital display showed the 300 miles of range or whatever, then I drove less than five miles and parked. When I re-started, though, the fuel gauge only showed 3/4 tank full and the range was like 160 miles. I drove a couple more miles (maybe 10 at most) and then the next time i restarted, the analog gauge showed "Full" again, but the digital "miles remaining" was showing 120 miles or so.

It was mostly happening around or below the 1/4 tank mark, but now seems to be happening even when full. FWIW, most of the time the two seem to be aligned (analog and "info"), but not yesterday/always.

Does anyone have experience with this phenomenon or a deduction about whether it's the bobber, the sender, or something else entirely?

 

[YotaWagon]

I don't have an answer for you, but over this past winter I had two experiences in very cold weather-cold start conditions where the car reported empty on the analog gauge, the cruising range was at 0, and the fuel light was on. I panicked both times and put fuel in it even though I was pretty sure I didn't need it. Sure enough both "fill-ups" were not even close to an empty tank's worth of fuel.

I did some poking around the forums looking for a solution and some people had replaced some parts but nothing seemed to solve the issue from what I was seeing. Your issue seems a little different with the variability of what's going on.

 

[JDub03LC]

Well this video makes it pretty clear it doesn’t really matter—bobber and sender are all one unit.

And I think this is beyond what I can commit to right now so I’ll head to the mechanic. Posting in case it helps anyone else:

 

[abuck99]

Float, sender and pump are all in one frame. The fuel sender/float has an arm swipes across a surface of a series of raised electrodes- which wear down over time and will read erratic fuel level.

Try a new sender, and since you have the pump out (if it’s original), prob time for a new one as well.

 

[JDub03LC]

Float, sender and pump are all in one frame. The fuel sender/float has an arm swipes across a surface of a series of raised electrodes- which wear down over time and will read erratic fuel level.

Try a new sender, and since you have the pump out (if it’s original), prob time for a new one as well.



View attachment 3032574

Thank you!

 

[JDub03LC]

Also for any future readers, looks like this is the part number:

1998-2007 Toyota Land Cruiser - Fuel Gauge Sending Unit - Toyota (83320-60340)​

 

[JDub03LC]

Update fwiw: I got the new OEM part for about $100 on EBay (looks slightly different from the one abuck99 posted — it has a cover over the rectangular part) and it ran me about $350 in labor to install. Fuel readings more accurate and consistent now/looks fixed.

 

[Sventvkg]

This is the exact same issue I’m having in my 05. Will look up the part thanks!

 

[JDub03LC]

This is the exact same issue I’m having in my 05. Will look up the part thanks!

No problem, glad it helped — that's why I posted. Just know most of the places had the part for about $170/$200. Think I may have gotten lucky finding a new one for $100.

 

[wesquire]

Thanks for sharing the part number. Looks like some are available thru ebay for around $100 with shipping. The video posted was for a 4-runner. From what I could tell on YouTube in a video to replace a fuel pump in a 100 series cruiser, it should be accessible from inside the passenger compartment after removing the rear seat without dropping the gas tank. Just started having this issue in my cruiser and may attempt the replacement myself

 

[AtoyotA]

i lived with a similar issue for two years. my gas gauge seemed to be perpetually hovering around 1/4 tank or less. no matter how much gas i put in the tank, it would never get to F and thus my cruising range was always wrong. I worked around it by just resetting my trip every time i filled my tank and then refueling around the 220 mi mark.

I finally decided enough is enough and bought a new OEM sending unit for $220ish and installed it myself. i previously had only ever installed a new charcoal canister so my experience in auto repair was next to nothing. but i watched a couple videos of guys replacing their fuel pump and since it's the same assembly, i just followed those steps. hardest part was reinserting those yellow clips lol. very rewarding job and i wish i wouldve done it sooner!

only hurdle i faced was that the new sending unit came with a metal mounting bracket so i assumed i had to replace the old bracket, but I could not get the 2 screws out of the damn thing and i almost completely carved out the screw heads. then i realized i didn't have to replace the bracket, but i could just put the new sending unit on the old bracket. so i did that and then took about 10 min attempting to reinsert those yellow retaining clips the whole process took my dumbass 2.5 hrs. having done it once, i am confident i could do the job in 45 min. prob need a buddy to help get the rear double seat in and out of the truck though... that thing is a pita to move.

edit: I just realized i watched the same video you posted from timmy the toolman when i was researching this job and that video made me not want to attempt the job. i was not about to drop my fuel tank... good thing i saw the fuel pump replacement videos bc the 100 series fuel pump/ sender assembly is accessible from the top of the fuel tank! i.e. under the carpet in the back seat. so nothing i said above would make sense if you only watched the timmy the toolman video lol.

 

[wesquire]

i lived with a similar issue for two years. my gas gauge seemed to be perpetually hovering around 1/4 tank or less. no matter how much gas i put in the tank, it would never get to F and thus my cruising range was always wrong. I worked around it by just resetting my trip every time i filled my tank and then refueling around the 220 mi mark.

I finally decided enough is enough and bought a new OEM sending unit for $220ish and installed it myself. i previously had only ever installed a new charcoal canister so my experience in auto repair was next to nothing. but i watched a couple videos of guys replacing their fuel pump and since it's the same assembly, i just followed those steps. hardest part was reinserting those yellow clips lol. very rewarding job and i wish i wouldve done it sooner!

only hurdle i faced was that the new sending unit came with a metal mounting bracket so i assumed i had to replace the old bracket, but I could not get the 2 screws out of the damn thing and i almost completely carved out the screw heads. then i realized i didn't have to replace the bracket, but i could just put the new sending unit on the old bracket. so i did that and then took about 10 min attempting to reinsert those yellow retaining clips the whole process took my dumbass 2.5 hrs. having done it once, i am confident i could do the job in 45 min. prob need a buddy to help get the rear double seat in and out of the truck though... that thing is a pita to move.

edit: I just realized i watched the same video you posted from timmy the toolman when i was researching this job and that video made me not want to attempt the job. i was not about to drop my fuel tank... good thing i saw the fuel pump replacement videos bc the 100 series fuel pump/ sender assembly is accessible from the top of the fuel tank! i.e. under the carpet in the back seat. so nothing i said above would make sense if you only watched the timmy the toolman video lol.

Thanks for the input! I don’t much on the truck myself, but tackled a power steering reservoir replacement successfully and after reading about your experience I’m going to pull the trigger on a unit on ebay and tackle this. I’ve been rolling with just watching mileage, but that’s getting old.

 

[AtoyotA]

Thanks for the input! I don’t much on the truck myself, but tackled a power steering reservoir replacement successfully and after reading about your experience I’m going to pull the trigger on a unit on ebay and tackle this. I’ve been rolling with just watching mileage, but that’s getting old.

the feeling of watching the gauge go to the proper level is priceless! lmk if i can help at all. just be careful removing the bolts from the seat bracket. i ended up stripping one of the bottom ones bc all the weight of seat sits on the bottom holes. i removed the top ones first, which forced a lot of pressure on those bottom bolts. and i have no idea what the part # is on that so my rear passenger seat is held on by 3 bolts instead of 4. oh well! that's the future home of my yeti anyway.

oh and the FSM says to start the engine after you've unplugged the fuel pump harness and let the engine run until it dies. this will depressurize the fuel system, which may or may not be important. in the videos i watched, the guys just unplugged the fuel lines from the assembly and maybe a drop or two of gas seeped out. that was not the case for me - i got at least a cupful of gas and almost had a panic attack watching it shoot out. if you dont want to mess with depressurizing, at least have a cup handy to catch any gas.

 

[abuck99]

Not necessary to depressurize system unless you’ve just shut the engine off. Leave it overnight- it should be fine.

It’s a good time to also replace the engine bay fuel filter- place a rag around the fittings as it will dribble a bit when you disconnect.

 

[wesquire]

Good info! Seems like a Saturday morning project, but I’d want to back it out of the garage before messing with any fuel. Guess I could just park it out overnight when I get the part and decide to tackle it.

Will need to look at my records, but believe I replaced the engine bay fuel filter - maybe when I had the fuel pump replaced … which I probably could have tackled myself with all the info I’ve gained since.

I think I have a digital FSM I downloaded, but not sure if it’s searchable. If you know what section this is covered in, please let me know.

Thanks!

 

[abuck99]

I don’t recall section in FSM off memory. I do recall the FSM stating to disconnect the FP connector- located underneath body - under rear driver door area. Could be easier to disconnect battery idk

When you access the the FP cover there are little clips that hold the fuel lines on- be careful removing them- they can pop out and fall between tank and body and nearly impossible to recover. Use a quality JIS head driver to remove the screws so you can reuse them. Also replace the seal under the cover- or you’ll get a vapor leak into the cabin.

 

[AtoyotA]

I don’t recall section in FSM off memory. I do recall the FSM stating to disconnect the FP connector- located underneath body - under rear driver door area. Could be easier to disconnect battery idk

When you access the the FP cover there are little clips that hold the fuel lines on- be careful removing them- they can pop out and fall between tank and body and nearly impossible to recover. Use a quality JIS head driver to remove the screws so you can reuse them. Also replace the seal under the cover- or you’ll get a vapor leak into the cabin.

is the gasket part # 77169-33020?

 

[abuck99]

Sorry/ traveling and don’t have my service parts list handy-someone else can chime in or you can post the parts image schematic from PS

 

[AtoyotA]

Good info! Seems like a Saturday morning project, but I’d want to back it out of the garage before messing with any fuel. Guess I could just park it out overnight when I get the part and decide to tackle it.

Will need to look at my records, but believe I replaced the engine bay fuel filter - maybe when I had the fuel pump replaced … which I probably could have tackled myself with all the info I’ve gained since.

I think I have a digital FSM I downloaded, but not sure if it’s searchable. If you know what section this is covered in, please let me know.

Thanks!

how did it go? btw, I verified that is the part number for the gasket 77169-33020.

 

[AtoyotA]

also, for posterity, the part number for those yellow retaining clips is 77241-60320.