Frozen
- Thread starter KIRUXA
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #3
It's got brand new AC compressor and all brand new AC lines. Yes I'm in a highway. So I guess that's normal....?
Also my seal between axle and differential is leaking on the front. Is there possibility of seal completely letting and and diff fluid dumping or should I just watch the levels for the next little while? I'm far far away from home....thanks
Also my seal between axle and differential is leaking on the front. Is there possibility of seal completely letting and and diff fluid dumping or should I just watch the levels for the next little while? I'm far far away from home....thanks
Also check to see if the condensate line is plugged.
The evaporator coil for the A/C is right behind that frozen panel. That much frost would indicate a frozen coil and is not normal. Since the compressor and A/C lines were just replaced, the problem may be with the installation/charging of the system. The air has to blow over the coil for both both warm and cold, so if the coil is frozen solid, no air. If it was mine, I'd first check the blower. It's just to the right of that frosted panel under the glove box and is held on (facing up) with 3 bolts. I recently had mine out to clean out a mouse nest. If the blower is not working, that would cause the frost buildup on the coil. Of course you could hear it trying to work if it was running. You might check the blower fuse too.
I don't know about the seal leak on the front diff/axle. I've never had any oil seal fail suddenly and completely; they have all gone bad slowly over a time. On the other hand, if the diff vent is plugged tight and the pressure builds up on a hot day, maybe an old seal could leak more quickly?
I don't know about the seal leak on the front diff/axle. I've never had any oil seal fail suddenly and completely; they have all gone bad slowly over a time. On the other hand, if the diff vent is plugged tight and the pressure builds up on a hot day, maybe an old seal could leak more quickly?
- Thread starter
- #10
Thanks for the replies guys. I will look into what's going on.
The AC I'm thinking ill get a shop in Portland to take a look at.
Also,
The seal breakage is most likely caused by seized breathers which I will take a look at tomorrow when it's light out.
In the meantime it caused me an engine light, abs off, Vcs off. I topped up the differential and the levels did not go Down over 500kms. But the lights are still on.
Anyone knows any good shop for all of this in Portland? Thanks
The AC I'm thinking ill get a shop in Portland to take a look at.
Also,
The seal breakage is most likely caused by seized breathers which I will take a look at tomorrow when it's light out.
In the meantime it caused me an engine light, abs off, Vcs off. I topped up the differential and the levels did not go Down over 500kms. But the lights are still on.
Anyone knows any good shop for all of this in Portland? Thanks
- Thread starter
- #11
So after the AC de frosted itself over night it works again but I'm sure only until it freezes again.
My cluster looks like this because of the seal and whatever else is happening in differential.
I'm driving to mr lube 100kms away so they can top it off.
My cluster looks like this because of the seal and whatever else is happening in differential.
I'm driving to mr lube 100kms away so they can top it off.
Kiruxa, are you still in Portland?
Your issue is definitely AC, whatever happened when it was installed has flared up. I think you'll have to check the entire A/C system. DOn't let the lights scare you, you'll have to 1) fix the AC, then 2) run the scan and reset it. You're almost forced to go to a dealer to just get a diagnostic, but it's worth asking around too..
I used to work in Portland, there are some neighborhoods where I'd feel comfy getting a referral.
If you'd like, call my cell and I'll tell you how I'd go about finding a Toyota A/C mechanic..
Your issue is definitely AC, whatever happened when it was installed has flared up. I think you'll have to check the entire A/C system. DOn't let the lights scare you, you'll have to 1) fix the AC, then 2) run the scan and reset it. You're almost forced to go to a dealer to just get a diagnostic, but it's worth asking around too..
I used to work in Portland, there are some neighborhoods where I'd feel comfy getting a referral.
If you'd like, call my cell and I'll tell you how I'd go about finding a Toyota A/C mechanic..
We get A/C issues quite often here in Texas. A car with no A/C in these parts is a sweat lodge. You just don't do it. The big money in the A/C system is the compressor. So long as it's alive and well, the rest are 'relatively' minor fixes
My guess is that the compressor is missing something and it's turning on full blast, freezing, and then seizing up.
My guess is that the compressor is missing something and it's turning on full blast, freezing, and then seizing up.
- Thread starter
- #14
Im on my way to Portland right now.
The lights I just checked at me lube.
It's code P1782 manufacturer control transmission. Which I have noticed giving me a trouble to switch from 3 to 4?!...yea I know. Is it just a sensor issue?
The diff seal seems to be fine and not leaking anymore. Only very little actually.
The A/C issue. Yes I want to find a name for a good AC Toyota shop in Portland. The AC compressor is brand new so are all the lines. It blew very cold and hard in the morning until it got plugged up again lol.
The lights I just checked at me lube.
It's code P1782 manufacturer control transmission. Which I have noticed giving me a trouble to switch from 3 to 4?!...yea I know. Is it just a sensor issue?
The diff seal seems to be fine and not leaking anymore. Only very little actually.
The A/C issue. Yes I want to find a name for a good AC Toyota shop in Portland. The AC compressor is brand new so are all the lines. It blew very cold and hard in the morning until it got plugged up again lol.
Ok, that makes sense actually... The compressor sounds like it's turning on and just going to full throttle without regard to the inputs of the dash controls.
My recommendations based on what I remember about the neighborhoods are:
1) Ron Tonkin Toyota. 750 SE 122nd Avenue, Portland OR
or...
2) Beaverton Toyota 4300 SW Murray Blvd, Beaverton, OR 97005
If you're closer to Beaverton, or can handle that drive, go there. There is a Toyota Used Parts store nearby and it's probably just a bit more automotive of a neighborhood. But either should suffice.
Portland is a difficult business city. Not knocking anyone that lives there, but it's not an accident that certain businesses are on the perimeter of the city and not centered in neighborhoods.
My recommendations based on what I remember about the neighborhoods are:
1) Ron Tonkin Toyota. 750 SE 122nd Avenue, Portland OR
or...
2) Beaverton Toyota 4300 SW Murray Blvd, Beaverton, OR 97005
If you're closer to Beaverton, or can handle that drive, go there. There is a Toyota Used Parts store nearby and it's probably just a bit more automotive of a neighborhood. But either should suffice.
Portland is a difficult business city. Not knocking anyone that lives there, but it's not an accident that certain businesses are on the perimeter of the city and not centered in neighborhoods.
- Thread starter
- #17
So I brought it to Ron hokin Toyota which so far provided great service. The leak in the differential seemed to be just a bad seal on the drain plug and breathers were jammed shut. They cleaned up the mess underneath and it should be fine now.
Also the cluster lights were diagnosed to the battery system being drained below recovery when I had the engine swap due to water intake and hydro locking a few months back.
Finally the AC problems were caused by the box underneath the glove box plugged shut with leaves and possibly some dead raccoons and whatever else I managed to jam it with on many off road trips.
They are also replacing the fan clutch kit which is on its way out and is very loose and does not engage properly anymore.
Power steering flush and a brake light bulb replacement.
Full diagnostic and re flash of the system and I should be on my way.
Thanks to everyone for replies and comments.
Also the cluster lights were diagnosed to the battery system being drained below recovery when I had the engine swap due to water intake and hydro locking a few months back.
Finally the AC problems were caused by the box underneath the glove box plugged shut with leaves and possibly some dead raccoons and whatever else I managed to jam it with on many off road trips.
They are also replacing the fan clutch kit which is on its way out and is very loose and does not engage properly anymore.
Power steering flush and a brake light bulb replacement.
Full diagnostic and re flash of the system and I should be on my way.
Thanks to everyone for replies and comments.
Glad to hear that, I'd hate to scar a good trip with a bad dealer experience.
Because of the way sales are counted by auto manufacturers, where every vehicle delivered to a dealer counts as a sale, there are tons and tons of bad dealership stories out there. Everyone I know seems to have one, either they were jacked with on price or their problems simply weren't fixed.
My 'secret' if there is one is to find a dealer that is close to an established neighborhood. Not sure why, but it seems to work..
Because of the way sales are counted by auto manufacturers, where every vehicle delivered to a dealer counts as a sale, there are tons and tons of bad dealership stories out there. Everyone I know seems to have one, either they were jacked with on price or their problems simply weren't fixed.
My 'secret' if there is one is to find a dealer that is close to an established neighborhood. Not sure why, but it seems to work..