Frozen solid ... Project time.. Zgcrzr

[Goebeler]

Went north for turkey day and to grab my 72 fj40 to bring home and start a project. As usual it started right up. Made some crazy sounds ans smoke started to come out of the engine bay. I popped the hood and realized the water pump was not turning. Shut it down and then realized the rubber hoses with coolant were huge to say the least. Frozen solid. No clue as to how it happened cause I just replaced the fluid with fresh 50 50 coolant, water.
Can't get it started again but it is on the trailer. Hoping the block isnt fooked. I might be looking for a new motor.

If so, should I go with a newer set up, along with a 4 speed? I am planning to build a simple cruiser. Fairly stock to be left out at a bud's place in colorado. Plan to do some mild trails.

It is on 33's now with a 4" spring lift, some random locker in rear, and winch. Otherwise stock.

I am going to do some homework to see what is appropriate for a colorado trail rig. But before i dig into the old motor, and spend money on it...i thought I would see if anyone had onput on the future set up.

Goebs

 

[4rnr]

Went north for turkey day and to grab my 72 fj40 to bring home and start a project. As usual it started right up. Made some crazy sounds ans smoke started to come out of the engine bay. I popped the hood and realized the water pump was not turning. Shut it down and then realized the rubber hoses with coolant were huge to say the least. Frozen solid. No clue as to how it happened cause I just replaced the fluid with fresh 50 50 coolant, water.
Can't get it started again but it is on the trailer. Hoping the block isnt fooked. I might be looking for a new motor.

If so, should I go with a newer set up, along with a 4 speed? I am planning to build a simple cruiser. Fairly stock to be left out at a bud's place in colorado. Plan to do some mild trails.

It is on 33's now with a 4" spring lift, some random locker in rear, and winch. Otherwise stock.

I am going to do some homework to see what is appropriate for a colorado trail rig. But before i dig into the old motor, and spend money on it...i thought I would see if anyone had onput on the future set up.

Goebs

When you put 50/50 in it, did you run the truck and allow it to get to op temp, to open the t-stat?

Co motor....something that can deal with elevation....

 

[Gumby]

Seems to me that truck had cooling problems last winter.

 

[woody]

...actually, this summer...something about needing to add coolant and not having any rings a bell...might just be me tho...


72 is an F turd...2F/4-speed would definitely be an improvement...Ige would be a good contact for CO build decisions (nuclearlemon)

 

[Gumby]

1FZ-FE

 

[PhilC64]

A 1fz would too long for a stock 40 if I'm not mistaken.

 

[Goebeler]

I am home and cruiser is in shop. Dead as a door nail.
Woody, last i was up, i changed stat and added coolant. Still ran hot after a bit, but better that last year. But gumby i right, it had cooling problems.
I pulled a couple plugs, soaked. Coolant and oil mixture. Looked in the top oil cap and there is coolant there.

Guessing it is time for the project to kick in. I am going to have to be real cheap on the build. Scary for me to dig in with no cash, but it needs to be done.

If doable for me and my sad wrenching skills, i want to go 2f 4speed setup. Is this a replacement type of all sorts of fab sht?

Looking for all sorts of input so i dont get parts and things i dont need. Not looking to build a gem. Just a nice runner.

 

[Goebeler]

More rambling...

I am thinking the goal should be as follows:
2f
4 speed
Front discs
Family cage
Sliders, cause I have them
And???

Have presently:
72 40
4" suspension lift
Rear locker
Drum brakes
Decent body
Soft top
Cage from spector years ago
Warn winch
Funny cloth electric front seats....

Good start for a nice out west 40. I plan to have quite a few sets of spare keys made so folks can run the thing once deposted in colorado. Us flatlanders need to have cruiser access when and if we ever get out west. Driving the rental just doesnt cut it!!

 

[4rnr]

I am home and cruiser is in shop. Dead as a door nail.
Woody, last i was up, i changed stat and added coolant. Still ran hot after a bit, but better that last year. But gumby i right, it had cooling problems.
I pulled a couple plugs, soaked. Coolant and oil mixture. Looked in the top oil cap and there is coolant there.

Guessing it is time for the project to kick in. I am going to have to be real cheap on the build. Scary for me to dig in with no cash, but it needs to be done.

If doable for me and my sad wrenching skills, i want to go 2f 4speed setup. Is this a replacement type of all sorts of fab sht?

Looking for all sorts of input so i dont get parts and things i dont need. Not looking to build a gem. Just a nice runner.

Yeah, like I said, 2f would prolly be the best bet for you. I assume there is little to no modification to go to a 2f/4spd....but I dont really know. The green one should be consulted...

 

[Gumby]

The green one says the head is probably toast. I wouldn't be surprised if there was condensation in the oil cap, but there shouldn't be any coolant in the cylinders. If it hasn't been run much in that condition the block may be able to be salvaged. If that's the case a used head could be done.

2F-age is good. As is four speed. I happen to have a 4 speed hooked to a split case and I have the stuff needed to hook a 4 speed to a 3 speed case if you wanted to do it that way.

I also have a 66 Vette 327 with the proper crossover exhaust and engine mounts and a brand new TH400 with AA adapter to LC transfer case that could be had for a very nice price to the guy who basically gave it to me.

I also have a shop and slave labor who would love to be involved with such a project. It is a fair piece from the nort' burbs.

I do not have a 2F. I've had a few. They all tend to have holes in them.

I do have a spare 1FZ-FE, but it's broken. Woodrow has one that's less broken, but still in need of $1000 in parts and machine work. It would be cool but very spendy to put one in a 40.

 

[Gumby]

More rambling...

I am thinking the goal should be as follows:
2f
4 speed

See above

Front discs

Definitely need. I don't got. Easily had. Worth an axle rebuild while you're in there.

Family cage

See GingerFab. Booger welds but the price is right.

Sliders, cause I have them
And???

power steering. That should be damn near first on the list. Especially if you want others to be able to drive it out west.

 

[Goebeler]

How do I learn what damage was done to the motor besides looking? I am fine with leaving the old turd in there and trying to get a four speed adapted. You know this is over my head though. i only ran it enough to get it on the traler, but it barely ran enough to get on. Now it wont start at all. Put fresh fuel in, starter fluid, and nada. Turns and turns but nothing.

What should I tear into to see how fooked it really is? John told me to get a compression testor. Might try to find one of them and see if there is compression in any or all of the cylenders. It always smoked a bit but just figured it needed a valve job.

I appreciate the offer to help labor wise. Might take you up on some of that. I hope i can do most my self but you know my abilities... I am challenged in more ways then one.

Tell me where to start and i will do so and let you know my findings. I am going back out now to cry in it.

 

[Goebeler]

Sorry, forgot power steering. I have driven it without for 18 years and it seemes fine to me. But you are right, others will hate that wont they. That might be last cause it is just money there.

 

[Gumby]

If the antifreeze has been run in the oil it would take out the bearings. Low oil pressure would be the indicator there. Or a knock if it was really bad.

A cracked block would be tough to tell before you got the head off. You could do a compression test, a coolant system pressure test, or a cylinder leak down test, but none would tell you if it's the block or the head.

Once you get the head off you could have the head magnafluxed and pressure tested if you can't see the crack. You could do that with the block too, but it would have to be pulled and stripped.

If it was overheating last year because of a cracked head, the bearings are probably in bad shape, but even then new bearings aren't hard to do. Even for someone of your "limited" mechanical abilities. ( limited to building one of the sweetest 40s I've ever seen)

4sp or auto - You can absolutely have the drive train from the 45LV. The 327 smokes a bit. Probably needs valve seals, but I could do those without pulling the head.

What I don't have is a CSB to 4sp adapter.

 

[Goebeler]

I am going to try to remove the head. I took one plug out and it was soaked with oil and or real wet. I looked closely and cant tell. I took another out and the same. Couldnt get that plug to re-thread back in so i stopped. I am going to pull the head and attempt to find a shop to do what you said. is this an expensive thing to have done?

sure hope it isnt a bad motor. really want the 4 speed but thinking the 2f swap is a big job for me.

i dont think i want to go the chevy route with this one for some reason. want basic and simple.

tomorrow i will dig in deeper. need to get the other 40 ready for tft so a fast fluid change is in order. wonder if the local jiffy lube might work on that turd...

 

[woody]

I likely have parts laying around for front discs...pile is pretty deep any more tho, hard to say...I know I've got knuckles...new rotors are cheap, calipers aren't bad either...might even have birfields and lockouts...

RockAuto:
Calipers are $30 ea
Rotors are $27 ea
front hoses are $7ish

I've also got a 4-speed/split on the shop floor and yes, that 1FZFE too...it might get away with a set of main and rod bearings and run for another 200k...or it might blow up before it leave the drive...

 

[4rnr]

I am going to pull the head and attempt to find a shop to do what you said. is this an expensive thing to have done?

.

IIRC its under 100$. The worst part is lifting and moving that F head.

 

[4rnr]

See GingerFab. Booger welds but the price is right.

You Bastid!

The flux is strong with me!

 

[Gumby]

IIRC its under 100$. The worst part is lifting and moving that F head.

Magnafluxing is very cheap. Pressure testing, something that must be done with aluminum heads since they are non-ferrous, is a bit more expensive. Most places with charge for disassembly and cleaning as well, but that's not much. I think it cost me $100 per pair for the last set of heads I had done.

 

[4rnr]

Magnafluxing is very cheap. Pressure testing, something that must be done with aluminum heads since they are non-ferrous, is a bit more expensive. Most places with charge for disassembly and cleaning as well, but that's not much. I think it cost me $100 per pair for the last set of heads I had done.

but f head isnt aluminum...my back learned that while leaning over a fj60 engine bay lifting one off the block. (I know you know, but just so goebs knows)

jeeze....this thread is still on topic! wierd!