Front Stock 80-series Driveshaft Needed For Test: (1 Viewer)

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Apr 2, 2003
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Tucson, AZ
Hi guys. We're still working on the Lexus vibration issue. We found the rear drive shaft to have a POO-POO U-joint. We're replacing both. Meanwhile...with the front D/C shaft in only it still vibrates. It's the main cause of vibration....90%. So, I need to try a stock front D-shaft but guess what....my guy pitched it already. :mad:

Does anybody have a front D-shaft with decent U-joints in it they can loan me? I need to test with in it only too. Slee quickly sold me a new front D/C I may not have needed. I'll reward the loanee somehow. THANKS!
 
Front d/c? Disconnect? Will you be running manual hubs? Not that it is a solve for your vibration issue but I like the idea of being able to stop the rotation of the fron ds when it's not needed.
 
Tools R Us said:
The one in your '93?

Can somebody please display a picture of a LARGE ASS (me!) in this thread? I cannot believe I've known I needed to find a stock shaft for almost a week and never thought of the '93.

I'm changing my forum name now to DumAzz100Czr

Oh my...crap...what an idiot I am. You can see this LX has consumed me.
 
If that doesn't work out, I have a DS in Phoenix... of course, your own driveway is probably a lot more convenient. :D

FWIW, a stock driveshaft probably won't get you far, as the u-joint angles will not be correct. Also, I'd highly recommend to you and anyone to replace u-joints when changing the angles (i.e; lifting a truck) if there is a significant number of miles on them. Front and rear.

-Spike
 
HAHAHAHA!!! It happens to the best of us. I just spent an hour looking for a thread with a link in it to a hot rod motormount crossmember thingie and a 2 second google search for small block motor mount turned up the website I was looking for as the 1st hit. Go figure. Maybe I'll change my name to BSEARCHINFORCRAPWAYTOOLONGMAN.
 
-Spike- said:
If that doesn't work out, I have a DS in Phoenix... of course, your own driveway is probably a lot more convenient. :D

FWIW, a stock driveshaft probably won't get you far, as the u-joint angles will not be correct. Also, I'd highly recommend to you and anyone to replace u-joints when changing the angles (i.e; lifting a truck) if there is a significant number of miles on them. Front and rear.

-Spike

Yep. I hear ya on the U-joints. I think though since the '93 is lifted JUST below 4-inches and it's SMOOTH...it might tell us something about the Slee D/C shaft. I'll send the Slee shaft back to Slee for inspection.
 
BMAN said:
HAHAHAHA!!! It happens to the best of us. I just spent an hour looking for a thread with a link in it to a hot rod motormount crossmember thingie and a 2 second google search for small block motor mount turned up the website I was looking for as the 1st hit. Go figure. Maybe I'll change my name to BSEARCHINFORCRAPWAYTOOLONGMAN.

Looks like I belong in this club? :D

Where's my shirt and membership card?
 
I figured out the D/C... and I thought that for a Double Cardon to work right(i.e. no vibrations) the pinion should be pointing directly at the tcase. If your pinion is too low it will cause the D/C to be out of phase and make for bad vibes just like if it was to high with a standard Ujoint shaft.
 
BMAN said:
I figured out the D/C... and I thought that for a Double Cardon to work right(i.e. no vibrations) the pinion should be pointing directly at the tcase. If your pinion is too low it will cause the D/C to be out of phase and make for bad vibes just like if it was to high with a standard Ujoint shaft.

We added 20mm more front lift (about 5-inches) and that front pin angle is dead on. I'm guessing the stock shaft will vibrate too. If it doesn't, I'll U-joint it, leave it in and find a used one for the kid's '93.
 
PIC:
54495045-L.jpg
 
sleeoffroad said:
Hey, you better fix that rear main leak/2nd oil pan leak

If the truck can't be driven who needs to fix the leak? ;p

Hey...if the '93 stock shaft drives smoothly in the LX without the rear shaft in, what's your conslusion? What if it's improved greatly though still has some real slight vibes?
 
sleeoffroad said:
Then it means the u-joints in your 93 shaft is in better shape than the 97.

Sure, BUT...you mentioned early on that since I put on J-springs and used your caster plates I would need a D/C front shaft.
My buddy Frank did the same lift and his front stock shaft worked fine. He has no vibes. :confused:
I'm thinking a stock shaft might just do fine too? (Though now the front's up another 20mm...J-spring plus 20mm...from the trial and error process?)
 
ShottsUZJ100 said:
Sure, BUT...you mentioned early on that since I put on J-springs and used your caster plates I would need a D/C front shaft.
My buddy Frank did the same lift and his front stock shaft worked fine. He has no vibes. :confused:
I'm thinking a stock shaft might just do fine too? (Though now the front's up another 20mm...J-spring plus 20mm...from the trial and error process?)

My point being that with J's I needed all good U-joints and not neccessarily a D/C front shaft? :confused:
 
Does he have the same weight on his truck in terms of bumpers etc? Does he have the caster plates?

I know from experience that the DC shaft works with our 4" lift. Until I get the DC shaft back and inspect it, it does not really help to speculate.

However, on your earlier post, did you actually install the 93 shaft?
 
sleeoffroad said:
Does he have the same weight on his truck in terms of bumpers etc? Does he have the caster plates?

I know from experience that the DC shaft works with our 4" lift. Until I get the DC shaft back and inspect it, it does not really help to speculate.

However, on your earlier post, did you actually install the 93 shaft?

Frank's is unloaded too. We both opted for your plates. We try the '93 shaft on Wednesday. I'll then send the D/C too you for inspection and/or whatever else.
 

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