Front Stock 80-series Driveshaft Needed For Test: (1 Viewer)

[ShottsUZJ100]

Good U-joints will be better than bad u-joints, but that does not mean that good u-joints won't go bad when you vibrate them.

I'll not use the truck until it's smooth.

No, adding the 20mm to the front didn't do anything.

 

[BMAN]

Damn,

That looks like you should be running the D/C regardless. If Frank's rig is running an identical lift and setup I would gues that he will burn up Ujoints faster than expected.

 

[clarkrw3]

Like I said before...you should have gone with the 6" and been done!! I have no vibration issues at all...with the front D/C and yes I have a spare reg. shaft if the one on the 93 doesn't pan out

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

Like I said before...you should have gone with the 6" and been done!! I have no vibration issues at all...with the front D/C and yes I have a spare reg. shaft if the one on the 93 doesn't pan out

Well, I got the same lift but 4" springs sub't for the 6". I'll bet that D/C shaft is bad.

 

[clarkrw3]

Well, I got the same lift but 4" springs sub't for the 6". I'll bet that D/C shaft is bad.

except for the front control arms and springs rear upper control arms....that's the lift except for the small bits right

 

[-Spike-]

Almost every time I think I got a bad part, it turns out I was mistaken. Almost.

-Spike

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

UPDATE:

I took the D/C front shaft out of the LX. I'll send that to Slee for inspection.

Meanwhile, we slapped the front stock shaft from our '93 into the LX. The U-joints felt good and consistent though the '93 has 165K on it so some wear to those U-joints must exist. When we drive the '93 every now and then we get some slack.

The test drive of the LX? 95% of the vibration is GONE with the '93 stock shaft in the LX! What's left though is a quick GRRR sound every time you go on and off the gas. Plus, some vibration does exist upon deceleration though it's slight. Also at a few speeds on decel there is some slight GRRR sound.

PLEASE KEEP IN MIND we still have the rear shaft out. It's awaiting another u-joint. Having it in might effect or reduce the current sounds.

MY QUESTION: So how do we end this? My gut? We never needed a D/C front shaft. We lifted the LX and vibration hit. The rear shaft had a bad U-joint. Maybe the front did too though we pitched it becuase we were told we'd need the D/C shaft. Keep in mind we added another 20mm lift to help out the D/C shaft which didn't work.

My guess: Remove that added 20mm lift that didn't help anyhow. This should improve the operation of a stock shaft even more. Throw in the rear shaft and balance via upper rear control adjusts. If all works I'll buy a used shaft to throw back in my '93 for the one I robbed.

WHAT AM I MISSING? Probably plenty?

 

[Tools R Us]

NEVER toss parts until the job is done! :whoops:

The old shaft would have made someone a nice trail spare, RULE #2; NEVER toss good Cruiser parts, By breaking this rule you have irritated the Cruiser gods and your truck will always shake unless you make a big sacrifice!

From your pic the pinion looks to be lined up with the shaft, but pix can be deceiving, what is the measurement?

If it's lined up well the DC shaft maybe defective or you don't need it in the first place.

 

[Tools R Us]

Did you try running the front shaft in phase? Mine runs a little smoother that way. Is the phase correct on the rear shaft?

 

[-Spike-]

you have irritated the Cruiser gods and your truck will always shake unless you make a big sacrifice!

$acrifice is right.

-Spike

 

[medtro]

Before sending it to Slee, I would try running the DC shalf in the '93 to see if you have the similar vibration.

What are you missing? Perhaps a stock front drive shalf

 

[-Spike-]

BRILLIANT! Of course, if it's smooooth, it opens a whole 'nother can o' worms.

-Spike

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

Did you try running the front shaft in phase? Mine runs a little smoother that way. Is the phase correct on the rear shaft?

Phase was correct on both shafts. Do you have a D/C front in your LX?

 

[sleeoffroad]

UPDATE:
The test drive of the LX? 95% of the vibration is GONE with the '93 stock shaft in the LX! What's left though is a quick GRRR sound every time you go on and off the gas. Plus, some vibration does exist upon deceleration though it's slight. Also at a few speeds on decel there is some slight GRRR sound.

If the vibration and sounds are there now, it will just get worse with time as the joints wear more.

MY QUESTION: So how do we end this? My gut? We never needed a D/C front shaft. We lifted the LX and vibration hit.

I would be really amazed if you did not need a double cardan shaft.

The rear shaft had a bad U-joint. Maybe the front did too though we pitched it becuase we were told we'd need the D/C shaft.

That must be an educated guess by someone. But why toss the old shaft? Ever heard of trail spares

Keep in mind we added another 20mm lift to help out the D/C shaft which didn't work.

Adding the spacers was a easy way to check if you have angle issues. It was not necesarrily to help the CV shaft.

My guess: Remove that added 20mm lift that didn't help anyhow. This should improve the operation of a stock shaft even more. Throw in the rear shaft and balance via upper rear control adjusts. If all works I'll buy a used shaft to throw back in my '93 for the one I robbed.

That is certainly one way to proceed. but again, I have not seen a truck lifted that much that did not need a CV shaft.

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

If the vibration and sounds are there now, it will just get worse with time as the joints wear more.



I would be really amazed if you did not need a double cardan shaft.



That must be an educated guess by someone. But why toss the old shaft? Ever heard of trail spares



Adding the spacers was a easy way to check if you have angle issues. It was not necesarrily to help the CV shaft.

My guess: Remove that added 20mm lift that didn't help anyhow. This should improve the operation of a stock shaft even more. Throw in the rear shaft and balance via upper rear control adjusts. If all works I'll buy a used shaft to throw back in my '93 for the one I robbed.

That is certainly one way to proceed. but again, I have not seen a truck lifted that much that did not need a CV shaft.

OK my friend...since you've been calling the shotts on this project I'll stick with you. I'll send you that D/C shaft back tomorrow for testing. Come late Friday the rear shaft will be on. OR....should I leave it OFF until I get your D/C front shaft back? That way I can test it again by itself?

 

[Tools R Us]

Phase was correct on both shafts. Do you have a D/C front in your LX?

No, the angle is dead split between stock and CV, so I don't know if it would help. I will need a CV when I decide on what I am going to do with caster correction and implment it.

It runs a little smoother in phase, if I keep it greased it's not bad.

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

No, the angle is dead split between stock and CV, so I don't know if it would help. I will need a CV when I decide on what I am going to do with caster correction and implment it.

It runs a little smoother in phase, if I keep it greased it's not bad.

Oh, that's right....you didn't correct caster. That's why yours isn't vibrating. I did so that's the key reason I need the D/C shaft. ???

 

[Tools R Us]

Oh, that's right....you didn't correct caster. That's why yours isn't vibrating. I did so that's the key reason I need the D/C shaft. ???

Correct, mine only has CC bushings.

 

[sleeoffroad]

OK my friend...since you've been calling the shotts on this project I'll stick with you. I'll send you that D/C shaft back tomorrow for testing. Come late Friday the rear shaft will be on. OR....should I leave it OFF until I get your D/C front shaft back? That way I can test it again by itself?

In the end you need both shafts in. I would put it in so you can at least drive the truck.