Front Spring Hanger for lifts

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snailwagon

snailwagon

Joined
Jun 11, 2004
Threads
150
Messages
1,043
Location
high desert, ca
I'm still new to the whole non-cruiser thing, and have grand plans for my 81 pickup.

What's the deal with the weld on spring hanger for aftermarket front suspension lifts? Why are they used? My plans are to use all-pro springs in the front since they are close enough to pick up the parts from and not pay shipping.
 
snailwagon said:
I'm still new to the whole non-cruiser thing, and have grand plans for my 81 pickup.

What's the deal with the weld on spring hanger for aftermarket front suspension lifts? Why are they used? My plans are to use all-pro springs in the front since they are close enough to pick up the parts from and not pay shipping.
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Howdy! Is that the kit for the longer front springs? If so, it adds several inches on the front end of the frame. Two advantages are longer leaves for more flex and it moves the front axle forward a couple of inches which gives you more room for bigger tires. Even with a bunch of lift, my 35's rub on the rear fender lip and the corner of the floor board on hard turns with the suspension compressed. John
 
inkpot said:
Even with a bunch of lift, my 35's rub on the rear fender lip and the corner of the floor board on hard turns with the suspension compressed. John
Click to expand...

The 1st gens have more rounded fenders, which helps with the tire clearance. I run 35s with the axle moved forward about 1" and with a 4" lift, the tires clear the fenders.
 
I do believe that part of the reasoning is due to the weak stock configuration as well. Some stock front hangers have been partially ripped off the frame. The stockers aren't made for what most of us like to do to them on the rocks.

Bob
 
Turbo Turtle said:
I do believe that part of the reasoning is due to the weak stock configuration as well.
Click to expand...

Bingo.

The stock hangers on SA frames are pretty weak. Plus, the pins are kinda weird, they have that shouldered part, held in with 2 small bolts. I actually like those pins, OME makes a good replacement, I modified my rear fixed hangers to accept them.
 
I've never had a problem with the stock front hanger. Even on rock buggies. It is a bit thin, and thus, why the upgrade was made.

The other reason for it is to reduce brake dive.

When you add a drop shackle, the force of the vehicle braking goes into the spring, and into stopping the vehicle, thus causing dive. When the spring eyes are level, brake dive is greatly reduced, thus making a safer kit.

Just think about it, the brakes stop the rotor, which in turn stop the axle, which stops the leaf spring, which stops the frame of your truck.
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I've only been wheeling my pickup for a short period and have smashed the front hangers pretty freakin hard. Enough to make it feel like I hit a wall and stall the truck (and the carb runs great at extreme angles and hard impact). One bent a little. I don't think I would want to move the front axle more han 1" forward. 109" seems pretty nice to me now. With so little weight on the rear, a little potential brake dive is probably pretty stable.

The front springs are shorties, so I get the concept of moving the hanger forward. The hangers are cheap and easy to weld on, but I was curious of why? So thanks for the clarification.

I am going to tub the firewall/ front fender area. A lot of the local trails are severely off camber, so much I could not drive my fj55 on them (super tippy, super soft suspension. Maybe that's why it has flopped on both sides now and sports a reinforced A-pillar.) That is why I am going with the low approach. I am very comfortable using skidplates and sliders, instead of raising my center of gravity. Just plant a slider good, pop it into 2wd, and 90 degree turns are possible. Gets you into the places the <100 inch wheelbase vehicles go. Sometimes picking the low line and choosing a potential "kickstand" to avoid rolling works good. However, trees are much easier on the panels than rocks.
 
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