Front right caliper replacement / bleeding (1 Viewer)

[chrisbruck]

I have a siezed piston in my front right caliper. Can't seem to free it up so going to remove and replace the whole caliper. They are about $100.

My question is on the bleeding part. The whole system was flushed not too long ago so I'm only bleeding this one caliper.

Can I do the traditional two man pump, hold, open bleeder routine get the air out? Ignition on or off for this?

I wouldn't think I need to mess with the ABS module. Anyone else done this? All the posts I've searched talked more about a whole system bleed which I don't need.

 

[bucfl]

Just curious, did you try a C clamp?

Ignition to ON position.
Two man pump should be fine.
Clamp the hose with something so you don't loose too much fluid.
Have extra just in case.

 

[Sandroad]

When I replaced my front calipers, I just did the 2 person pump the pedal and bleed. I did it with ignition off. Very quick and simple. The caliper holds relatively little fluid so not much is lost in a change. I cushioned the hose clamp to avoid damage. That price must mean you are using aftermarket and not OEM. Good quality?

 

[chrisbruck]

Tried the C-clamp numerous times. The one stuck piston will move a little but it's definitely dragging a lot. Much more brake dust on that side and hotter than the driver side if you touch after an easy drive. Seems like it pulls more to that side too while driving.

Yes, it's a remanufactured unit. Don't have it yet. If it looks sketchy I'll find a new one.

I planned to clamp the hose during the swap to minimize fluid loss and keep any bubbles from heading back to the MC.

 

[Sandroad]

Toyota sells reman too; that's what I used.

 

[badlander]

I would NOT clamp the hose as it could cause damage and a possible serious failure down the road. As long as you hold the end of the hose in a vertical attitude, and as high as possible, while you unscrew the caliper off of it, no air can enter, only fluid will drip out. Air will not go down hill in a fluid. After you screw the new caliper onto the end of the hose, bleed it with the caliper still up in the air and with the bleeder screw at the top, if possible. Just do not push the brake pedal after you close the bleeder screw or you may push out the piston(s). Might be a good idea to stick a block of wood between the pistons for safe measure. And do not lower the caliper until it is fully bled and the bleed screw is closed or air could enter the system. Have a helper standing by to hand you tools, parts, etc. while your hands are busy and to refill the master cylinder, and push the brake pedal. Once the caliper is bled you can go ahead and mount it on the bracket and you are done.

 

[Skidoo]

Another option is to rebuild the caliper, Toyota has a parts kit with all the seals. I have done mine and as long as piston and caliper are not scored or pitted it works well. I did two man bleed and works fine, I had the engine running so as to not deplete the accumulator.

DO NOT do bleeding as suggested above, fully assemble brakes before bleeding, the caliper is designed to fully purge air in assembled position. There are too many ways when a caliper is loose to slip up and get a crushed finger. Agree with not clamping the hose.

 

[chrisbruck]

I did it the old fashioned way and worked fine. Clamped the hose, removed the old caliper, put on the new (reman) one, and two person pump bled away.

Now the only bummer is two of the four piston dust shields weren't put on tight and moved as the pistons extended out to reach the pads. Good thing they have a lifetime warranty! For a $100 I'm happy for now.