I've got a very slow leaking seal and am looking for guidance on this job. Does this require the diff to be removed to accomplish? This is a crush washer setup, I believe? I've been searching for info on doing this job with little success.
Front pinion seal (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter SHIfTHEAD
- Start date
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You can try to do it in the truck by just removing the flange and replacing the seal. If you know that it is a crush sleeve and you are familiar with how they are setup then you might be able to get the nut on the pinion back up to torque without going too far.
I’d use some locktite on the nut and re-stake it as best you can.
Check the flange for marring or wear from the seal. You can Speedi sleeve it if it is really bad or sometimes polish it a bit with a wire wheel and set the depth of the seal to avoid any grooves.
Very doable if you pay attention.
Worst case you have to pull the third and either re-crush sleeve it or put a crush sleeve eliminator (solid spacer) in at that point.
I’d use some locktite on the nut and re-stake it as best you can.
Check the flange for marring or wear from the seal. You can Speedi sleeve it if it is really bad or sometimes polish it a bit with a wire wheel and set the depth of the seal to avoid any grooves.
Very doable if you pay attention.
Worst case you have to pull the third and either re-crush sleeve it or put a crush sleeve eliminator (solid spacer) in at that point.
It’s an easy job.
I understand post ‘85 have a crush sleeve. That may complicate things. Ugh.
I understand post ‘85 have a crush sleeve. That may complicate things. Ugh.
I've got a very slow leaking seal and am looking for guidance on this job.
If you have the factory differential vent (the small metal cap on the axle or the end of a short hose) consider removing the OEM vent system, installing 3/8" fuel line on the axle with a clamp, and running the hose high into the engine compartment (buy 4-5 feet of hose). Cap off the line with a small fuel filter. I have had more than a few slow pinion and transfer case leaks over the years that were due to clogged vent caps. On one truck, when I remove the fill plug, it literally blew into my hand with a slight 'whoosh'. Obviously, any pressure in a oil-filled cavity (typically generated after the axle/xfer case gets hot) will likely cause leaks.
If you try this and it doesn't fix your leak, you will at least have a properly vented axle.
If you have the factory differential vent (the small metal cap on the axle or the end of a short hose) consider removing the OEM vent system, installing 3/8" fuel line on the axle with a clamp, and running the hose high into the engine compartment (buy 4-5 feet of hose). Cap off the line with a small fuel filter. I have had more than a few slow pinion and transfer case leaks over the years that were due to clogged vent caps. On one truck, when I remove the fill plug, it literally blew into my hand with a slight 'whoosh'. Obviously, any pressure in a oil-filled cavity (typically generated after the axle/xfer case gets hot) will likely cause leaks.
If you try this and it doesn't fix your leak, you will at least have a properly vented axle.
4runner2FJ60
SILVER Star
They ALL have crush sleeves unless they have been changed previously to a solid collar.
