I'm replacing my shocks and jacking the TBs next weekend. Where should I place my pump jack? Should I place my floor jacks right behind the front suspension on the frame? I'll have my alignment redone, but I'm worried about my CV boots. I'll be taking the LC on a 2k road trip this TG. Is there a good chance they'll rip after the TB crank?
Front end lifting point
- Thread starter Emcd
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A diff drop will help minimize issues with leaking CV boots.
I always jack from my diff drop. The lower control arms aren't really a safe place to jack from, in my opinion.
- Thread starter
- #5
thanks guys. i thinking that i'll just drop on the new shocks, then crank the TBs after i do the long road trip. with the 1.5" spring on back, it will look like a stinkbug, but i'm worried about reclamping and making a mistake that might cost me the CV's down the road. I read the Re-clamping FAQ, has everyone univerally agreed to a clamp style that works w/o a special tool?
You may want to cut the bands before you torsion bar lift the front so that the boots can settle into a new location easier. My passenger side tore a small amount in the first fold a couple days after I raised the front an inch. It looked like just grease seeping from the end but when I really got in there to clean and reclamp I found the tear. If you cut the clamps first, release the clamped area, and reclamp after the lift you might have better luck.
Also I used a piece of bike inner tube and some zip ties as a temp solution to keep the boot clean and grease from getting everywhere until I could reboot the axles. It worked really well. You might want to take some with you on your trip just in case.
Also I used a piece of bike inner tube and some zip ties as a temp solution to keep the boot clean and grease from getting everywhere until I could reboot the axles. It worked really well. You might want to take some with you on your trip just in case.
The oem bands have overlapping tabs that you pry open with a screwdriver and then loosen them. Tin snip work, Dremel, what ever......replace with the McMaster/Carr screw clamps that are referenced in a number of threads here.
Just to confirm, the central front jacking point at the round area on the metal engine undercover is used with the undercover on? That undercover sheet metal at the round area looks too fragile to support the weight!
No, you definitely want the wheels in the air when you are adjusting or replacing the TBars. You need to take the weight off the tbars.
I usually just jack it up from my diff drop.
AHC vehicle TB adjustments are done with the wheels on the ground.
You can turn TBs while on ground, but why struggle with all that weight. It takes seconds to lift it a bit under that central round spot on the front skid (it rests on the crossmember). Use stands under the frame.