Front driveshaft/hub circlip & front UCA pre-load questions! (2 Viewers)

[SMLE]

Hi folks,

I've read through FAQs, watched videos and searched around, I have a few questions if anyone would be so kind to direct me!

Front driveshaft/Hub circlip
I've seen that people will recommend checking different size circlips for securing the driveshaft after it comes through the hub/rotor. Do I need to be sourcing larger circlips and if so, any tips? As part of the rotor/bearing/UCA/LCA job I have planned for a few weeks time, I'm replacing the outer hub too. Is anyone aware what component wear is responsible for the larger circlip being required? Is it the face of the hub or the channel in the driveshaft at fault? Hopefully if it's the former, then new hubs will remedy that allowing stock circlips to be used.

Upper Control Arm Pre-load
I've seen that the upper control arm requires preloading to prevent premature wear and from what I understand people will jack the hub up until the measures the same as when settled normally.
The only slight issue is that the front drivers side of the car is sitting slightly lower than the passenger side, I've got a post saved on getting it levelled out and the process (the torsion bars will be off). Should I be sorting this before doing the front, or is it safe to just raise the hub when doing the UCA preloading to the height I need it to be when resting without AHC lifting/lowering it? Definitely over thinking all of this but just don't want to get it wrong (we're talking about an inch or less different from memory!)

Thank you!

 

[2001LC]

Cicle clip is called a Hub flange snap ring. They come in 6 different thicknesses from 1.8mm to 2.8mm. Factory installs the 2.2m thick ones. They are a non reusable part. Gap determines size (thickness) to be used. Which is alway a thicker one 2.2, 2.4, 2.6 or 2.8mm. 2.4mm is used the most.

Bolts, of control arms bushing, lower shocks and front lower bolt of links. Are torqued (tighten). While vehicle in neutral stance with weight on tires. This locks rubber of bushing in a relaxed position.

Front LH lower than RH front (cross level), is common and easy to correct. It's corrected by adjusting Torsion bars. Read up a AHC flush and adjusting.

 

[2001LC]

Preload of wheel bearings (breakaway preload):

 

[Trunk Monkey]

There's no component wear that requires a different thickness c-clip. Most common is that you've replaced the bearings and races and the stack thickness of the hub is now possibly slightly different. I've always just reused the c-clips when I've done either repacks or replace, never had an issue. Ensuring that you've got the correct thickness in there is one piece of also ensuring that the c-clip doesn't pop off the end of the CV and cause bigger issues.

 

[SMLE]

Thanks

Bolts, of control arms bushing, lower shocks and front lower bolt of links. Are torqued (tighten). While vehicle in neutral stance with weight on tires. This locks rubber of bushing in a relaxed position.

Front LH lower than RH front (cross level), is common and easy to correct. It's corrected by adjusting Torsion bars. Read up a AHC flush and adjusting.

Thank you! And also thanks for FSM shots.

Are the hub flange snap rings available in different sizes from Toyota? Just wondering where these can be purchased from.

As far as the the torquing of bolts in a neutral stance, is this readily accessible once the vehicle is back on its wheels on the ground?

 

[Malleus]

Yes, you can buy all the thickness snap rings from Toyota, as @2001LC said above, from 1.8-2.8mm:

The dealership will be able to provide them. FWIW, these are the same parts for every 100 series, except the 105 which has a different axle.

Yes, you can reach all the bolts to torque them when the wheels are on the ground. You really should have a copy of the service manual before you do any of this work, instead of asking for random advice; the detailed procedures are listed there. There are copies of almost every Toyota document you could want in the Resources section, however these are all for US models. Someone recently posted a link to a site with General market publications on it. It's on this forum.

 

[SMLE]

Yes, you can buy all the thickness snap rings from Toyota, as @2001LC said above, from 1.8-2.8mm:
View attachment 3817603
The dealership will be able to provide them. FWIW, these are the same parts for every 100 series, except the 105 which has a different axle.

Yes, you can reach all the bolts to torque them when the wheels are on the ground. You really should have a copy of the service manual before you do any of this work, instead of asking for random advice; the detailed procedures are listed there. There are copies of almost every Toyota document you could want in the Resources section, however these are all for US models. Someone recently posted a link to a site with General market publications on it. It's on this forum.

Thanks for this, I'll get in touch with them to sort out the different size options.

I have the FSM that I found online and downloaded however in this instance the approach I saw in quite a few videos on youtube (yeah, I know...) took the approach of jacking up the hub which on reflection is a lot more work than just doing once the car is on the ground. I also wasn't sure if access to the required bolts once on the ground was possible (without unnessecary suffering of the person doing the job) so thanks for clarifying

 

[riffman12]

al a plug for @cruiserpatch - they have a convenient kit they sell that has all the snap rings: 100 Series IFS CV axle snap ring kit (hub) - https://www.cruiserpatch.com/products/100-series-ifs-cv-axle-snap-ring-kit-hub?_pos=1&_sid=b7ac40657&_ss=r

 

[Malleus]

FWIW, the dealerships here never bother to "fit" the "proper" size snap ring, as per the service manual; they just replace the one they removed.

Also, the procedures for completing repairs were designed with the dealership service shops in mind. Some procedures can be safely and properly executed by alternate methods, but solid shop knowledge is required to ensure that the alternate procedure is devised with the same end result as the proscribed procedure in mind.

For example, the upper and lower ball joints are secured with tapered pins and a nut. It has long been a practice, since the earliest days of the use of this joint, over a hundred years ago, to either drive the pin from the socket (this is the method employed when a ball joint or tie rod separator is used) or, if the joint is under tension (as the balljoint is) to loosen the nut and impact the outside of the socket, using the tension on the pin to pull the joint apart. Both methods are outlined in the service manual.

 

[2001LC]

Toyota is very clear in the FSM. Hub flange snap ring is non-reusable, and we must use proper thickness to get a gap of less than 0.20mm. They sell 6 different thickness. You see this noted above in pictures and screenshots.

We've, parts within wheel hub and steering knuckle that wear. Number one is the brass bushing in back steering knuckle. As it wears thinner. Hub flange to snap ring Gap increase. Gap is spec at less than 0.200. This insure, seals of FDS outer axle (CV outer axle) and seal in back steering knuckle seat properly. To wide a gap, invites water entry past the double seals.

Correct gap, also insure minimal in and out movement of axle through spindle and hub flange. Excessive moment wears down axle & hub flange splines. Porpeer gap, also reduce pounding effect on axle groove and snap ring. Wide gap we have excessive pounded of axle groove and snap ring.

Used snap ring expand each time reused. This result in reduced clamping force around axle. Also less bit on axle splines groove is cut into.

How many have seen, the many post in mud. Where some says, my diff blew or transmission fail. Someone will say activate the CDL, see if drivable. Yes! Then TM, says: "Check your C-clips" (AKA: hub flange snap ring) "it may have popped off the axle". How many have found snap ring, lying in grease cap.. DUH! those were reused snap rings, how many times....

Snap rings pop off because they're reused and gap not set. Which damages them and axle. FDS axle damaged, by round the groove sharp right angle that retain the snap ring. FDS are $600. Snap ring are $3. DUH!

Reused Snap ring. They don't clamp tight on axle and take beating on inner edge. As does axle groove. Toss in loose wheel bearing vibration. Axle move in and out, becomes a saw.

Spline of hub flange and axle get eaten

new hub flange

axle damage
Reusing snap, result in loss of axle snap ring groove

New outer axle of FDS (AKA CV), snap ring groove.

Brass bushing wears, increases hub flange to snap ring gap.

Grease cap are also a non reusable. Or seal often fails and we then get water entry at cap. Grease become contaminated

 

[Rhetoric]

@2001LC As always, great info and pics.

"Details matter" is a phrase I like to use when it comes to doing maintenance on these rigs.

 

[SMLE]

Toyota is very clear in the FSM. Hub flange snap ring is non-reusable, and we must use proper thickness to get a gap of less than 0.20mm. They sell 6 different thickness. You see this noted above in pictures and screenshots.

We've, parts within wheel hub and steering knuckle that wear. Number one is the brass bushing in back steering knuckle. As it wears thinner. Hub flange to snap ring Gap increase. Gap is spec at less than 0.200. This insure, seals of FDS outer axle (CV outer axle) and seal in back steering knuckle seat properly. To wide a gap, invites water entry past the double seals.

Correct gap, also insure minimal in and out movement of axle through spindle and hub flange. Excessive moment wears down axle & hub flange splines. Porpeer gap, also reduce pounding effect on axle groove and snap ring. Wide gap we have excessive pounded of axle groove and snap ring.

Used snap ring expand each time reused. This result in reduced clamping force around axle. Also less bit on axle splines groove is cut into.

How many have seen, the many post in mud. Where some says, my diff blew or transmission fail. Someone will say activate the CDL, see if drivable. Yes! Then TM, says: "Check your C-clips" (AKA: hub flange snap ring) "it may have popped off the axle". How many have found snap ring, lying in grease cap.. DUH! those were reused snap rings, how many times....

Snap rings pop off because they're reused and gap not set. Which damages them and axle. FDS axle damaged, by round the groove sharp right angle that retain the snap ring. FDS are $600. Snap ring are $3. DUH!

Reused Snap ring. They don't clamp tight on axle and take beating on inner edge. As does axle groove. Toss in loose wheel bearing vibration. Axle move in and out, becomes a saw.
View attachment 3817735
Spline of hub flange and axle get eaten
View attachment 3817745
new hub flange

View attachment 3817746
axle damage
Reusing snap, result in loss of axle snap ring grooveView attachment 3817744
View attachment 3817742
New outer axle of FDS (AKA CV), snap ring groove.
View attachment 3817741
Brass bushing wears, increases hub flange to snap ring gap.
View attachment 3817729
View attachment 3817732View attachment 3817739

Grease cap are also a non reusable. Or seal often fails and we then get water entry at cap. Grease become contaminated
View attachment 3817748

Thanks so much for these details, it's certainly help me understand the wear points but more importantly the impact of not getting it right.

I'm going to study the FSM before attempting this in a few weeks, I'm feeling hopeful

 

[Bisho]

It is totally fine to jack the hub to neutral height to torque the bolts. While it can be done with the vehicle on the ground, it’s so much easier with the tire off and the truck in the air.

 

[2001LC]

I'll add a bit more. FSM recommends use of brass dowel to remove cone washers. For sure use brass. Do not pound on hub flange, in attempt to pop out cone washer.

Pounding on hub flange or studs with steel, will damage them and wheel hub. Which can affect centerning and seal.

Last person to install these hub flanges & cone washers, glue them on with FIPG. Which we never do, for this reason:

I've developed a faster less fatiguing method.


Click on my master link, below. Look under wheel bearing for more links. You may find useful.