To remove the front door window glass the FSM says to remove the outer glass weatherstrip first, but searching through a few old threads no one mentions this, they just say pull the window out after removing the two 10mm bolts that hold the glass channel to the window regulator. I tried this and the metal glass channel bumps into the outer weatherstrip every which way I attempt to pull the glass out, so it does seem like that strip has to come off. Anyone know of a trick to wiggle the glass out with the weatherstrip in place? Only concern there is that I've heard the clips break easily and I don't have any spares; any suggestions on how to release those clips without snapping them?
Front door window glass removal questions/help
- Thread starter Kernal
- Start date
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Remove the door panel. Unbolt the window from the regulator. Next unbolt the rear track so it's loose in the door. As you move the glass up pull the top out on the rear side it should pull up and out. No need to remove the weather strip.
Hope that helps.
Hope that helps.
- Thread starter
- #3
Had tried 12 different angles trying to get the glass out but it wouldn't fit, so I loosened the mirror mounting bolts and then released 4-5 clips for the weather strip just enough to hold it up out of the way so the window and window channel could squeeze by. The outer glass weatherstrip clips release by pulling inward and up slightly, but that's hard to do with the glass in the way. I ended up using a large 90 degree bronze pick which worked fairly well to get behind the clip and pull in. One clip snapped predictably, the top part of the clip that connects to the strip itself has very tiny arms. After I got the window out of the door I could see maybe why I couldn't get it out through the narrow opening; the PO had the window replaced and the old glass channel was wider than a new channel. On the other hand, the FSM does state to remove the outer weatherstrip before removing the glass, FWIW.
To get the channel off the glass I sprayed some PB Blaster onto both sides of the filler (or urethane) in the channel (whatever was holding the glass to the channel) and let it sit about an hour. Then I beat on the wider lip that is on one side of the channel using a dead blow hammer sliding it along the glass and after about half a dozen whacks up and down the channel it started to come off, a few more and done. The rubber or urethane was softened by the PB Blaster and most of it peeled off with a bit of work using a flat tool. I noticed before I knocked off the used channel it was wider except at the ends compared to the new channel I have sitting in a box, most likely because the glass installer who replaced the window previously had to widen the channel to get the broken glass out and then reused the same channel but never got it back to it's original shape. Then water got into the too wide channel causing significant rusting. I figure it was just a matter of time before the rust gave way causing the window to pull out of the channel.
After looking back on the whole process my guess is that the extra wide lip on one side of the glass channel was put there just for the purpose I used it for, to provide leverage when removing the glass, as I beat on the lip I could see that the channel was getting wider until it finally let go, FWIW.
What I've learned from all this, IMHO, is that the glass channel probably should be considered a non-reusable part. If you have to replace a door window might as well order a new channel and filler at the same time. Here's some photos of the carnage. Bottom photo shows the new channel on the left, old on the right.
To get the channel off the glass I sprayed some PB Blaster onto both sides of the filler (or urethane) in the channel (whatever was holding the glass to the channel) and let it sit about an hour. Then I beat on the wider lip that is on one side of the channel using a dead blow hammer sliding it along the glass and after about half a dozen whacks up and down the channel it started to come off, a few more and done. The rubber or urethane was softened by the PB Blaster and most of it peeled off with a bit of work using a flat tool. I noticed before I knocked off the used channel it was wider except at the ends compared to the new channel I have sitting in a box, most likely because the glass installer who replaced the window previously had to widen the channel to get the broken glass out and then reused the same channel but never got it back to it's original shape. Then water got into the too wide channel causing significant rusting. I figure it was just a matter of time before the rust gave way causing the window to pull out of the channel.
After looking back on the whole process my guess is that the extra wide lip on one side of the glass channel was put there just for the purpose I used it for, to provide leverage when removing the glass, as I beat on the lip I could see that the channel was getting wider until it finally let go, FWIW.
What I've learned from all this, IMHO, is that the glass channel probably should be considered a non-reusable part. If you have to replace a door window might as well order a new channel and filler at the same time. Here's some photos of the carnage. Bottom photo shows the new channel on the left, old on the right.
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Too bad the previous installer did not do the job correctly (that old channel should have been pounded back to the width from factory) or a little rust protection shot into the track. The old channel is definately a reusable part ... if the job is done right! The "rubber" gasket that goes around the bottom of the glass and then is pounded into the channel comes in many thicknesses. In the future, go to an autoglass store and they should be able to help you out with the "rubber" portion. Growing up I replaced many side windows similar to these while working for my Dad's autoglass shop. Good luck . . . and a large rubber mallet really helps.
Brad
Brad
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- Thread starter
- #5
bruff: thanks for the feedback. I did drop by an auto glass shop before digging into it, they told me they never use the rubber gaskets or filler, just urethane, and that they would use a MAP torch to heat the channel in order to remove the glass?? I decided to do it myself and once I got the glass out of the door it was easy. Now just have to get it all back together. I pulled the window regulator and cleaned out 16 years of old grease, was surprised to find some clean grease still in the center of the regulator. Opened up the gear drive section of the window motor also, clean as a whistle, just a small amount of light green grease on the large nylon gear and the seal was still pliable and sticky.
Interesting. Maybe they're doing things a little different right now, but the gasket worked great with no issues ever (if you used the right thickness). And using a MAP torch to heat the channel? Wouldn't catch me dead doing that, but whatever they want to do, then so be it. Unreal that you found clean grease in that regulator after so many years and so many uses. Toyota even builds the regulator and window motors the way they do everything else ... well!
- Thread starter
- #7
The person at the auto glass shop said he didn't have much experience working on Landcruisers and after he mentioned using MAP gas I figured I'd take a whack at it. To be clear, the original grease in the arms, pivot points, and rollers had dried up but there was a largish amount of original grease on the backside of the regulator near where it slides that was in a protected depression but not really in contact with anything moving.
Here's a few more photos of the regulator. FWIW to slow down corrosion I'm using a zinc paint on some of the parts that don't slide/roll against each other. For lubrication I may use 60% Moly grease on the motor drive gear as well as the teeth and sliding parts of the regulator, then probably a heavy bodied white lithium grease for the rest.
Here's a few more photos of the regulator. FWIW to slow down corrosion I'm using a zinc paint on some of the parts that don't slide/roll against each other. For lubrication I may use 60% Moly grease on the motor drive gear as well as the teeth and sliding parts of the regulator, then probably a heavy bodied white lithium grease for the rest.
Glad this all worked out for you. Looks better than new!
- Thread starter
- #10
Here's a link to more discussion:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/547877-window-glass-woes.html
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/547877-window-glass-woes.html
Hi there was just wondering where you bought the channel mount from?
