Front Disc Brake Upgrade

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Anyone know of a good upgrade for the 88 fj62 front disc brakes? Maybe an all inclusive setup or something...probably too much to ask for a Landcruiser application. Maybe someone knows of some good piece-together-gear. Only have 37s now, but plan on 38.5s and have hard enough time stopping now.
thanks all
 
4-runner calipers, 80 series MC, search brotha and you will find oodles of info about it. Bolts right up and no mods needed. Might have to grind it a little depending on wheel choice.
 
What lowtide said. I did this on my 62 and, well, IT'S AWESOME BABY!

You'll need to grind the calipers a bit, but it's only a minute amount. Once I get around to it I'll do a writeup on the process, but I'm working on a couple other writeups now...
 
Chad, Al

Searchiing off MUD, early 90s 4runner calipers, and a 1 inch master cyl.

Little bit of dremel work on the metal brake plate cause the 4 runner calipers are a tad larger ( ummm, wider...)

Pete
 
Spook50 said:
What lowtide said. I did this on my 62 and, well, IT'S AWESOME BABY!

You'll need to grind the calipers a bit, but it's only a minute amount. Once I get around to it I'll do a writeup on the process, but I'm working on a couple other writeups now...

I'd love to see a wrteup on this. I have done a lot of brake upgrades on VWs and would like to see some upgrade options for the 60. This is on my list for this year along with a rear disc conversion.
 
Super easy upgrade I did it after the upgrade to bigger meats. Had to spend some time with the grinder though. My rear drums are out of round now, Instead of getting them resurfaced and new pads it will be cheaper to go to disc in the rear so as soon as money frees up a bit im gonna swing in Auto parts store and pick up some parts in a week or two....

-Al
 
Spook50 said:
What lowtide said. I did this on my 62 and, well, IT'S AWESOME BABY!

You'll need to grind the calipers a bit, but it's only a minute amount. Once I get around to it I'll do a writeup on the process, but I'm working on a couple other writeups now...

Hey Spook, did you have to grind the calipers or the backing plate or both?
Toad
 
The write ups you'll find in MUD indicate the 'backing plate' needs a little work...like approx 1/4 inch on both sides of opening for caliper.
 
I took the backing plate off makes birf jobs a breeze.
 
soggy60 said:
The write ups you'll find in MUD indicate the 'backing plate' needs a little work...like approx 1/4 inch on both sides of opening for caliper.

Yeah, I forgot to mention that you'll have to cut a bit of that away too, unless you pull the rotors off for any reason, then you can just leave the backing plates off (I'll be leaving mine off when I rebuild my steering knuckles).
 
i'll be doing this swap once i get to the knuckles....

regarding the backing plate, what are the pros and cons of removing it?
 
baldredhead said:
i'll be doing this swap once i get to the knuckles....

regarding the backing plate, what are the pros and cons of removing it?

I would like to know this as well.
 
It stop rocks and dirt from hitting your disc brakes. If you remove it, It makes it much easier to swap birfs or work on knuckles. Also it would be a good time to get longer brake lines the get rid of the metal line to axle housing. So you would have just one long line to the caliper instead of a hard line the the backing plate and then a soft line from the backing plate to the caliper, this will allow you to set the calpier out of the way i.e. way up on the leaf spring out of the way.
 
lowtideride said:
It stop rocks and dirt from hitting your disc brakes. If you remove it, It makes it much easier to swap birfs or work on knuckles. Also it would be a good time to get longer brake lines the get rid of the metal line to axle housing. So you would have just one long line to the caliper instead of a hard line the the backing plate and then a soft line from the backing plate to the caliper, this will allow you to set the calpier out of the way i.e. way up on the leaf spring out of the way.


Geez Al, it sounds like you are planning for something...
 
i have the long lines ready to go, but i'm rethinking (damn thinking, always confuses me). several people on the 3fe list have advocated drilling the rivets that hold the junction block to the backing plate, replacing them with bolts so you can pull the caliper without breaking the connections and you get to leave the factory sysetem intact. generally i'm of the opinion that toyota factory engineers know more than i do

still undecided
 
baldredhead said:
i have the long lines ready to go, but i'm rethinking (damn thinking, always confuses me). several people on the 3fe list have advocated drilling the rivets that hold the junction block to the backing plate, replacing them with bolts so you can pull the caliper without breaking the connections and you get to leave the factory sysetem intact. generally i'm of the opinion that toyota factory engineers know more than i do

still undecided

I'm also a fan of retaining the hard lines when possible. Much less likely to burst over time than a soft line (SS braided or not). When I get around to the knuckle rebuild, I'll try to figure out a way to retain the anchor point for the soft line.
 
why not put a tee on your axel and run one line down from the frame or master cylinder. i did this to my 40
 

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