Front diff protection "pipe cap"

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rusty_tlc

Dain Bramaged Member
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There seemed to be a lot of interest in this mod at the meeting last night so I did some leg work today.

Ferguson Supply on Rock can order them, it takes 1 to 2 days to get them in and they cost $52.93 each (I assume there would also be tax).

If you aren't familiar with this mod it entails cutting a 10" steel weld on pipe cap in half, cutting the appropriate holes to access the drain and fill plugs, then welding it to the front axle housing. With this mod you could hit something hard enough to bend the axle housing and not damage the differential.
 
Thanks for the leg work Rusty Dan. I am down for this mod. I will be splitting this with John Mc. Now who do I know that has a plasma cutter and can weld:D:o.
 
Thanks for the leg work Rusty Dan. I am down for this mod. I will be splitting this with John Mc. Now who do I know that has a plasma cutter and can weld:D:o.

Believe it or not, the BEST way to cut that cap is to do it w/ a cut off wheel. Because is a solid 3/8- 1/2 in the plasma (free hand) makes a jagged edge. Every movement of the hand transfers to the cut. They're also a bit deep, so I cut approx. 1 in or 1.25 off the back side of it.
Because its a radius, marking it is a trick too.
 
So how many six packs would you charge to modify a batch for us?

I still have the half from the one we bought together, I'd like to get it modified and installed on the 60.
 
He doesn't like sierra beer--They support the enemy:D Bud lite is the preferred beverage(which is now canadian owned)


I just bought some blades for my chopper saw. I can cut and prep these but as you all know I need to mooch welding services.

However this is a project for next month(s) as the hungry beast has other demands:wrench: Doing the oil puke--may have been the pcv as it was hard to blow open before cleaning it with carb cleaner. Gasket tonight-- waiting for paint to dry on the valve cover-rustoleum takes forever to dry. Hope the paint will be hi temp enough says good to 200 F.:confused:
 
Ill help w/ what I can.
I don't particularly want to do ALL the cutting and such. Any welding and beveling Ill do.
It's a great cheap mod that CAN save your ass in the rocks.
I found that using a seamstress tape measure is the BEST way to accurately section the caps in half along w/ a flexible ruler. Like I mentioned... The radius of the cap makes it hard.
 
I'll see if I can find a pic of how mine came out

All I have on my phone is this one rusty took on the trail.

image-1930081966.webp
 
Looks like a great mod! I think a band saw would work great for cutting it. Makes me want to buy new tools. Time.. I just need time to work on these things.
 
Lee was here yesterday and mentioned this I'm in for one or two,
 
name the end price and I am interested in one for the front and one for a rear. both for a fj60
 
Not doable for the rear diff with this method.

wouldn't it be the same size but a different hole pattern? im thinking for the back of the rear diff not the pinion side just for clarifying.

is there anyway you can get a better pic Chicago?
 
The cap is welded onto the axle housing in the front, this is okay because the front axles are full floating, they can be removed without opening up the differential.

The rear axle's are not full floating, you need to remove two c-clips from inside the planetary gears before they can be removed. The back of the rear axle housing is an access plate which allows you to access the c-clips.
 
Rustys right.
Where we put the diff cover on the front, the front of the diff housing is sealed and NOT removable from the housing.
The rear is a different story. You have to be able to access the rear diff. How they did that was to make the outward face removable. It'll make sense if you go out and look at your axles.
 
My front cap is on and ready to pound rocks. Had a scary moment when I couldn't get the fill plug out esp. since I had just drained the diff.-after it was welded on. Forgot who told me you should replace fluid after cooking it with the welder. Anyway had to drill out the plug and used an E-Z out to un screw it. It was still a bear to unscrew. Did the heating of the diff/threads with the welder do that? Anyway it is on. Noticed John christened his a few times on Slickrock. Thanks for the info in this thread guys! And thanks John for cutting mine in half and picking it up at Fergusons. May be rethinking having an allen head plug in that hole.:hhmm:
 

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