Front Diff fluid leak - probably CV seals but not sure yet
- Thread starter kcjaz
- Start date
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- #22
Some reinstall for reference later:
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- #23
Got the drivers side all back in and started to pull the passenger side CV. This time though, I can not get the hub off the axle. I’l repeating the same procedure I used on the left side but hitting it with a 4lb dead blow isn’t budging it. I shot some PB blaster in there and am letting it soak. The FSM method is a bit different:
It seems they remove the brake rotor and then pull the hub assemble off the axle. If I can’t get it doing it with the method from the video (that worked on the other side), I may have to go this route though I don’t have the SST. I’d have to get some generic puller or something.
It seems they remove the brake rotor and then pull the hub assemble off the axle. If I can’t get it doing it with the method from the video (that worked on the other side), I may have to go this route though I don’t have the SST. I’d have to get some generic puller or something.
I have used the rental generic puller from the parts store for this. They usually have one that bolts to the lug studs and is pretty convenient. Just make sure it works with our bolt pattern.
Thanks for sharing the pics. Clearly you are very skilled and competent on the tools and well done on getting that oil seal replaced. Kudos to you!
I too had to DIY replace the oil seal on the front diff axle that was leaking, and am happy that there are now no more gear oil drip marks on my driveway.
For what its worth, I was able to remove the CV shaft WITHOUT disconnecting it from the wheel bearing hub. Found this Youtube video from the Middle East showing how to do it.
But it was definitely a 2 person job as the weight of all the hardware makes it too hard for just for one person.
I too had to DIY replace the oil seal on the front diff axle that was leaking, and am happy that there are now no more gear oil drip marks on my driveway.
For what its worth, I was able to remove the CV shaft WITHOUT disconnecting it from the wheel bearing hub. Found this Youtube video from the Middle East showing how to do it.
But it was definitely a 2 person job as the weight of all the hardware makes it too hard for just for one person.
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- #28
The diff extension housing (or whatever it’s called) is a little nicked up. This burr prevents the seal install tool (from Cruiser Patch) from going in. I could still get the seal in there without using Patches tool, but I wanna take that bro out first. Unfortunately, my Dremel died so I have to get another one or borrow one or something to grind that little burr out.
That seems like somewhat significant damage. Any idea how that happened?
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- #30
No idea. I can’t see how anything like that could’ve happened from wheeling. Maybe it happened when we swapped all the components between my two rigs. all good guys working on my truck, but it was five of us and a lot of moving parts and stuff happens. The seal was nasty and also not in the right location. It had been pushed in the little and was not square in the hole. The tin dust cover wasn’t really in the right place either so maybe a stick or something got in there. Still something really hard would’ve had to cause that bird in the metal. I’ve got Bud Built skids and they protect the diff pretty well but maybe a rock got up in there.
Another curious thing. The seal I removed does not appear to be an OEM seal. The backside of the OEM seal has what looks like a copper ring on the inside. The one I removed is all plastic.
It is possible that the seal construction changed over the years.. would be more precise to compare to another known original seal.
Any molded writing on it? Sometimes the molded numbers can be decoded to find the manufacturer and part number/dimensions. I don’t remember many seals having actual Toyota formatted numbers but there are good cross reference systems available.
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- #32
The OEM one I purchased has BH5321F on it that googles like OEM. The one I removed has T7 80 10/16.5 which when googled is also associated with BH5321F.
OEM or non-OEM either way, they are most likely made in China. The one I bought at the dealer at least came in Toyota packaging.
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- #33
Deburred the seal housing using my new Milwaukee die grinder (good excuse to add to the tool collection!). Cruiser Patch’s install tool works great. The RH seal is inset 5mm per FSM and there is a recessed “ledge” that sets the 5mm. Just tap it in with Patch’s tool and sets the seal flush with the inset.
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- #35
Yeah, I think they are pry marks. Not sure why there was that much prying going on.
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- #36
All buttoned up and took her for a 30 minute test drive and no leaks so far. Fingers crossed.