Front caliper assembly bolt torques (real time requested) (1 Viewer)

[TXOVRLNDR]

So I started working on my front brakes this morning, and I inadvertently unscrewed the bolts holding the caliper together. Note: this is not the bolt that bolts the caliper to the truck (90ft lbs). This is the torque for the actual caliper assembly that is held together by two bolts.

Does anyone know what the torque should be for these bolts? I've searched some FSM docs but can't find anything.

There seems to be 'white' loc-tite on the bolt, but worst case scenario I will torque the other side until by torque wrench clicks to get an idea of how tight I need to go? Or is that faulty logic since the loctite is going to increase torque of the bolt either way?

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

So I started working on my front brakes this morning, and I inadvertently unscrewed the bolts holding the caliper together. Note: this is not the bolt that bolts the caliper to the truck (90ft lbs). This is the torque for the actual caliper assembly that is held together by two bolts.

Does anyone know what the torque should be for these bolts? I've searched some FSM docs but can't find anything.

There seems to be 'white' loc-tite on the bolt, but worst case scenario I will torque the other side until by torque wrench clicks to get an idea of how tight I need to go? Or is that faulty logic since the loctite is going to increase torque of the bolt either way?

I don't see it in the service manual either, but don't ever try to find the torque from a bolt that's been torqued down for a long time, especially one that goes through heat cycles like brake calibers.

oh, and the caliper mounting bolts x spindle are torqued to 73 ft lbf., not 90.

So that said, the size bolt that holds the caliper together is smaller and if going off other similarly sized bolts on the same truck (because torque is determined off of bolt size and materials and with the materials the same, you can get pretty close) I would go with 59 ft lbf. And lock tight them again, those bolts are never meant to be released, even with caliper rebuilds, you don't remove them.

 

[Atwalz]

99n-m

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

99n-m

View attachment 1554752

That’s for the caliper mounting bolts, not for the 4 bolts the hold the two halves of the caliber together that txoverlander was asking about.

 

[TonyP]

Talking about these slide pins/bolts in the rear?

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

Nope, on the fronts.

 

[TXOVRLNDR]

Thanks gents, ended up tightening around 80 with red loctite, so hopefully I didn't overdo it. In other news, new rotors and trd pads!

 

[TonyP]

Nope, on the fronts.

Ah, yes my stellar reading comprehension. Yeah, I looked through the WSM, couldn't find a torque for them either.

 

[TXOVRLNDR]

I understand that by including torques in the FSM it may lead someone to believe that it is supposed to be taken apart, but I know I'm not the first to do it and the toyota dealership quickly knew what I was referring to and didnt have the number either.

Thanks for the quick responses fellas. Hopefully a few extra lb ft of torque doesnt do any damage.

 

[Atwalz]

What size bolt is that? I couldn’t find anything for two halves of front caliper.

 

[Malleus]

There's a reason there is no torque value for the caliper halves in the FSM, you're not supposed to split them. It's a safety decision Toyota made decades ago. They only publish that data for their rebuilding suppliers.

The reason is that if you don't get the oil galleys clean, get the faces stoned flat and the halves lined up, you could end up with a nonfunctioning caliper. The rebuilt units are pressure tested, on a bench, after assembly and prior to shipping, to ensure this doesn't happen.

Having said all that, there's no reason you can't rebuild them yourself. The FJ40 manual has the procedure, IIRC.