Front Bearing / Brake Rotor AAR (2 Viewers)

[FIDO96]

So I did a full rebuild of the entire braking system (OEM calipers, pads & rotors) and Slee SS flex lines. All went together smoothly. I used the Landtank preload method of 47/10/47. 47 to seat bearing & washer. Spin, back off, series of 10flb torques and spins, new tab washer, retaining nut to 47 and finally bend the tab. It all felt fine.

Now easy my nerves. If I mucked it up, is there an immediate tell? What should I be looking/listening for if my preload was bush league.

 

[Malleus]

With the front wheels off the ground but mounted, grab the tires at 0° and 180° (not top and bottom) and try to shake the wheel back and forth. Sometimes it's easier with just one wheel up at a time, if you don't have a feel for how hard to shake without moving the tie rod too. It should feel solid.

If your preload wasn't tight enough, you'll feel it in the braking. If it was too tight, which I doubt with this method, they'll be very hot –as in so hot you can't touch them after a trip down the street and back. That's not very common with front brakes/hubs, but it happens, not infrequently, to me when I R&R the rears. I have resorted to using a laser thermometer on them to make sure the preload is consistent, side to side.

 

[FIDO96]

what should I do with the old OEM front & rear calipers? I purchased new ones online and paid a small ($30) core charge for the front ($0 for rear). Shipping cost back to Ourisman would be more than the refund.

Will a local dealership or parts store give me credit? Sell on FB. Clean them up and rebuild them and sell as reman? Recycle bin?

 

[AN470]

I was in the same boat and ended up tossing them. Not sure if it's worth the effort rebuilding and selling. Remanufactured calipers are pretty cheap last I checked.