Front Axle Rebuild Party - Shunt Cave 1.0

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I think I need to back the axle nut off just a hair. Just not sure if that's the problem because there isn't much torque on it right now
 
I think I need to back the axle nut off just a hair. Just not sure if that's the problem because there isn't much torque on it right now

I've never checked the torque of the 54mm axle nuts. LOL. I see in the FSM that there is a spec. But I throw that out the window. I just ensure the rotor can be moved "easily". I realize "easily" is a relative term. But I suppose I've been setting up bearings for 30+ years going back to my freewheel bicycle days were setting bearings in a hub was just part of it.
IMO... wheel bearings should be tight but not TOO tight that they don't spin freely. You should be able to pull the wheel stud with your finger fairly easy. But there should be NO side-play in the bearings.
The "easiest the rotor will turn WITHOUT side play" is your euphoric happy place. And honestly, I've found on these 80 hubs, that's kinda tight. I bet you're close, just loose them up and spin/tighten them again.
This is assuming you packed the crap out of you bearings and hubs with grease.
 
Yep plenty of grease. I know it was harder to spin when i put it back together but I think that's because of the new seal on the back side of the hub that's causing more friction because it's new
 
did you install new races in the hubs? Make sure they seated all the way? Truth is I doubt very many of us feel the hubs after all of this. I drove the lx to Cheeha and back right after wrapping it all up and never thought twice about it, but now I have seeds of doubt. :nailbiting: Thanks for that. Haha
 
I did install new bearings and races. I got a driver set to put in races and seals so I feel pretty confident that the races were seated correctly. When you're driving in the races they make a different sound when they bottom out in the hub.

I feel that the added friction when I turn the hub had to do with the new seal that is on the back side of the hub. Being new I'm sure its tighter around the spindle and I don't see how a seal would cause so much heat all the way to make the drive flange on the end of the hub so hot.


Also about the trunion bearings, I actually found one of mine that had a chip on one of the rollers. The roller right next to that one also fell out after I cleaned it up. So they are probably worth replacing if they are original to the truck.

@girupb, I'd definitely put your hand on the drive flange after a good drive to see how hot or not hot it is.. Did you put new rotors on when you did yours?
 
I did not do the rotors. I've went through several axles(not yota) over the years and never had a problem with bearings. In kinda surprised you can get them tight enough with just your fingers but I ain't all that strong either.

Good news is it isn't much work to dig into the hub again and take a looksee at it all. Lots of heat will cause discoloration of the metal surfaces.

Highest likelihood in my mind is that the tabbed washer popped its tab out of the groove and that torque on the outer turned the inner but as well. Hard to say though
 
that could be. I torqued the outer spindle nut to the 47 foot pounds then I bent over the tabs. but the out nut should not be able to turn the inner one because the lock tab is keyed and can't spin.


edit.. nevermind.. reread your post... but kinda doubt anything popped out of the groove
 
I would doubt it also unless the washer was worn or the nuts had chisel marks or something out of the ordinary like that
 
if anybody is still wanting to do this, i would be down! im needing to do wheel bearings and brake pads on my beat up 80. im in jacksonville al, so im not sure how close we are together.
 

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