Front Axle Rebuild - For FAQ (1 Viewer)

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birf rebuild - taking it apart

Found a link on how to remove the race/cage and the bearings for the birf. Worked great for me. Just a FYI, Maybe it has already beeen posted

Birfield rebuild
 
The drop and pop! Yeah, that is a good one. I like my zip tie trick to reseat them :)
 
When i pulled both of the spindles out, the brass colored bushing on one of them fell out without my needing to pry them. The fsm says to replace if worn, is the above a sign it is? The other splindle's bushing is tight.

They are like $60 each so trying to reuse, of course......:grinpimp:
 
So my boy likes lego - 9 years old, and he's pretty good at it. Give him some connected rings or wooden block puzzle and he'll usually figure it out...patience is the key. So when it came time to put my birfs back together I set him to it out...flat side of the cage down, grooved side of the star down, now get those six balls in there - cuz it was a bit of a Rubik's cube to me. But he figured it out, only his fingers aren't strong enough to push it all around. Anyway, my point is that after blasting thru 200 shop towels and 100 latex gloves, I reach the inner sanctum and am treated to a bit of puzzle fun. ;p My first time in that deep past the rotor and it was an adventure.

My knuckle was leaking like a sieve, and once opened up it was apparent that knuckle grease and diff oil were having a love affair and made one hell of a soupy mix. My steering has had a really light feeling to it, and I have not been able to adjust it out...new TRE's, ps hoses & flush, shocks, coils, Slee 3º bushings, 1/8" toe in, steering box adjustment nut fiddling, etc. However, now with a full axle rebuild a la this thread, my steering has that stiffness back in it with no play, hooray! :clap:

I spent 3 intermittent days on it and the 3rd included new brake calipers, lines, and a brake bleed. But ultimately I spent more time on this project than anything just cleaning dirty sh*t - at least half of my project time on this was spent scrubbing, soaking brushing, scraping, picking grease and grime off of everything. What a freakin mess, but at least when I go in again it will be a lot cleaner.

If it were not for this forum, this thread, I would not have tackled this job myself, and this thread made it simple. It's an easy job, just a pain in the a**.

Guess which in this pic saw the most action:
web.jpg
 
Quick question about moly. I originally I could only find locally "Ford, Lincoln, Mercury" (I think) moly grease but it doesn't say EP and it doesn't list the % moly. Is this the right stuff? I eventually was able to find something that listed EP and 3% moly but I have run out doing the first half. Wondering if I should try to track more down or if the other stuff will work.

Thanks
 
98 SNAKE EATER said:
Track down more of the stuff you've already used and don't mix it with anything else.
Click to expand...

I second that. Dont mix different types if you can avoid it. I bought 3 extra tubs when i did my rebuild.
 
Last edited:
Bjohnston115 said:
I second that. Dont mix different types if you can avoid it. I bought 3 extra tubs when i did my rebuild.
Click to expand...

There wouldn't be any mixing. I'm done with one side, so the other would get all one kind, I just want to me sure it is suitable. Got home and it does say EP. Can says to 375 degrees, website says 275. This stuff is much easier to find here for some reason so I would use it exclusively in the future.

This is the stuff: Valvoline.com > Products > Valvoline > Grease Valvoline > Valvoline® Moly-Fortified Multi-Purpose Grease Ford


thx
 
Finished a rebuild today today working on my own.

The whole stud thing for reassembly of the gasket, spindle, dust shield, gasket, dust seal isn't really necessary.

Two pieces of 8" dowel rod in the knuckle at 11 and 5 o'clock worked like a charm. Then two bolts in. Piece of cake.
 
Started my front axles service last night. The DS was starting to weep and looked like the beginning of soup. I had a wobbly steering wheel between 40-50 mph. I suspected the wheel bearings and sure enough, the lock nuts on the spindle weren't even hand tight. The lock ring had been installed incorrectly by previous owner and they were just spinning on the spindle. It took 4+ hrs to get the DS apart, cleaned and ready to reassemble. I also checked my rotor and it is below the min thickness, so I'll replace it as well.

Luckily I found some good help.

http://harleydougferguson.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/20120605-135405.jpg


Getting a brass hammer for the cone washers was a huge benefit. As was a 2.5 lb sledge hammer and punch for the bearing races. Made it easier than using a regular hammer and screwdriver. As most have said the only real issue is cleaning. So far disassembly has been pretty easy. Messy and time consuming, but easy.
 
Errrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr.

I knew something was bound to happen. Everything came apart and cleaned up perfectly until the inner oil seal. The Marlin seal was impossible, for me, to install. I ended up ruining it. Hopefully the local Toyota dealer(s) have some OEM in stock. My advice is to order 4 seals when doing this job.
 
so this may be a new unasked question... I screwed up. I ordered the wrong part from Marlin Crawler.
i spent the day tearing everything apart, cleaning and getting ready to reassemble. Went for the inner oil seal, and its way too small. so i start looking at it, and there is NO way thats the right seal . sure enough i ordered the wrong parts.
Is there anything that can be used from the fj40/60 kit that i ordered ? i know the oil seal won't fit, but how bout the rest of the kit? everything looks to be the same on the website, but who knows..
Lesson of the day... don't order parts with the iphone.. :(
 
jdogg said:
so this may be a new unasked question... I screwed up. I ordered the wrong part from Marlin Crawler.
i spent the day tearing everything apart, cleaning and getting ready to reassemble. Went for the inner oil seal, and its way too small. so i start looking at it, and there is NO way thats the right seal . sure enough i ordered the wrong parts.
Is there anything that can be used from the fj40/60 kit that i ordered ? i know the oil seal won't fit, but how bout the rest of the kit? everything looks to be the same on the website, but who knows..
Lesson of the day... don't order parts with the iphone.. :(
Click to expand...

On the full-time 80 you will be better served with an OEM inner axle seal, just say'n.

Also if you ordered a 60 kit nothing is going to fit the 80 but the star washer.
 
yup. just called Slee, and ups has already left for the day, so looks like the 80 won't be going anywhere any time soon. dammit..
 
LandCruiserPhil said:
On the full-time 80 you will be better served with an OEM inner axle seal, just say'n.
Click to expand...

Hey Phil, can you give a little more on this? Just curious as to why the OEM is preferred over marlins seals. I used marlin seals on both my 60 and 80 and have had no problems.
 
TEXASYETI said:
Hey Phil, can you give a little more on this? Just curious as to why the OEM is preferred over marlins seals. I used marlin seals on both my 60 and 80 and have had no problems.
Click to expand...

Marlin has done a lot for the Land Cruiser community and has excellent products and great seals for 40&60 (part time). 80's are full time and are better served with an OEM suspension seal. Look at the seals side by side and the OEM has more sidewall and movement (up & down)and tend to seal better then a fixed lip seal IMO.
 
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