Front Anti Sway Bar and 1.5" lift, any aftermarket solutions?

[Porter]

I've read all the ASB posts, several on rear ASB issues- easy enough to solve that with extended links it seems. Will these same extended links (ie Man A Fre) work for the front as well?

I see 2000UZJ goes commando with no ASB up front, (assuming several of you mudders are doing this) and Spresso has added quite a bit of field research on the front ASB as well. Removing ASB gives more articulation, less stability at highway speeds, cornering and so forth. For us pavement pounders, we value the front ASB, but certainly an easy disconnect would be great for offroad-- that's another conversation.

Last night I uncoupled my passenger side front ASB linkage, and the moderate 'clunk' noise I've had for a few weeks disappeared. (The clunk noise was only evident usually on acceleration while making a right turn FYI). All bushings and link hardware are less than a year old, and lift with diff drop was installed 4 months ago- Ironman Tbars, shocks, coils.

Question is, is there any solution to the front ASB binding with a medium lift (1.5"), no rust issues, brackets are fine. Is this only solved via custom fab job?

 

[spressomon]

Neil,

AFAIK from somewhat of an exhaustive search I did a couple years ago there isn't any aftermarket disconnect for the front or rear anti-sway bars for the 100. The front drive shaft is one of a few limiting factors preventing extension(s) and/or an easy and quick disconnect.

When the front ASB frame bracket broke apart of a Utah trip a few years ago I finally (after a big fiasco with a related broken brake line, etc.) just removed it for the remainder of the trip. Off-road without the front ASB but with the rear ASB connected was win-win; better traction, better articulation/front suspension movement, more compliant and better overall trail handling.

On-road, maybe related to my ~8,000lb load, I felt it was unsafe for highway speeds and totally dangerous if sudden swerve was needed to avoid whatever. But wow what a positive difference all things off-road!

A few weeks ago apart of another Utah trip the rear ASB snapped in two. Having never run this rig without the rear ASB before...I hated the way the front suspension loaded up. I was quite surprised how much the front end was effected sans rear ASB...all things off-road. However I was able to drive highway speeds all the way home without issue. Again not the best for sudden emergency type highway maneuvers but night-day compared to running highway without the front ASB.

I think we need a front mount ASB/torsion bar arrangement that would be much easier for disconnecting easily and quickly. Just dream-idea'n at this point.

 

[OregonLC]

I think we've been barking up the wrong tree. Everyone looks at disconnecting the ends. What about disconnecting the middle? Split it in the middle, create some flat lands, and involve a coupling.

Edit: For that matter, how hard would it be to have a machine shop spline it and then create a splined coupling (like on the steering shaft) that could be slid back to release.

 

[spressomon]

Casually looked in to a middle connect a couple years ago (similar to heep)...but your limited by the somewhat paltry clearance between the front drive shaft and the front ASB. Get around that and it might be viable from a mechanical perspective.

 

[OregonLC]

Casually looked in to a middle connect a couple years ago (similar to heep)...but your limited by the somewhat paltry clearance between the front drive shaft and the front ASB. Get around that and it might be viable from a mechanical perspective.

I haven't looked that closely, but you could build spacers to pull the ASB hardpoints down to create a gap?

 

[Delancy]

I think we've been barking up the wrong tree. Everyone looks at disconnecting the ends. What about disconnecting the middle? Split it in the middle, create some flat lands, and involve a coupling.

There you go.

That's what I was looking at doing on another IFS Toyota, the issue being consistency in the spring loaded coupler returning to 0 deg once re engagement was necessary.

Here's another thought, one that's not new, but revisiting on the 80 rear, right now.

Using a splined torsion bar (similar to PAC or Currie), machine a groove for a c clip to attach a low profile hub lock, on one side.
Weld that arm to the locking hub, so all stays connected, but could unlock the hub to disconnect, to reset be merely returning to flat ground and locking hub back.

 

[OregonLC]

I would think a split ASB solution would be a) relatively inexpensive to manufacture, b) easy to ship, c) very popular mod. MetalTech? Jonesy's? Slee?

It probably does carry a bit more liability/risk than other mods. If it were to break while the vehicle was at 8/10ths in a corner you could have an un-welcomed outcome. But, it should also be easy to over-engineer to reduce failure risk. If Heep can do it with a fancy motor, we should be able to do it manually.

 

[Delancy]

I would think MetalTech?y.

Y'all (collectively, the 100, 120, and up) have their undivided attention.

They got no love for the 80, but the typical response when I queried was "sway bars are for putties".

If Heep can do it with a fancy motor, we should be able to do it manually.

They since pulled that part as being available and it may be a component in the latest round of declined recalls, due to high failure rate for those that actually used it repetitively. Think most Heep wheelers have abandoned for the more popular and effective off the shelf replacements, but all hearsay from seeing the active topics screen on PBB.

Again, not on a 100, nor do I have any business being in the 100 section, but spent considerable time on and abandoned for lack of interest from anyone/company that had the wherewithal to produce, design, assist, or even offer menial input, because they ain't Heeps, where the markets share bias is disproportionate, BUT
Inevitably adapted a rear anti rock bar that is adjustable and doesn't impeded articulation on a lifted 120. With a properly tuned front shock/coil over, can't tell the front is missing on the 4.5k vehicle it's on.

Many thanks for allowing me the opportunity to impart useless info on the 100 board without reprisal.

Chris

 

[AimCOtaco]

My current set up is pleasing to me on the road or off.

The Iron Man T-Bars are stiff enough for me that I don't feel I need the front ASB anymore. I did rebuild the rear ASB with Man-a-fre links and urethane throughout. I'm very happy with the current handling situation even though I'm still running stock rear springs (with spacers). All that said, I'm not running near the weight of the fully built trucks...yet.

A disco in the center of the front bar would be cool but in my guestimation it would be expensive as I think you would have to have custom forged new bar halves. Any splines or flats in the center of the bar would be a major stress riser and likely cause breakage at the splines. Have a look at the T-Bars for an example of how it would need to look to have strength i.e. the splined area is a much larger section than the spring acting part of the bar. It's also much better to roll form splines than to cut them but that's quite a specialized process. A better solution might be to move to a race-car style straight asb with arms mounted in front of the axle up high... if you had a custom bumper for the set up and could make the system clear the steering links. So yeah, stiff T-bars and no front ASB works for me.

 

[OregonLC]

I like your input and I'm sure you're aware, but removing spring force in the front is a recipe for over steer. Stiffen the end you want to slide. Further, I would think that the rear has the most to gain from losing the ASB as the front is limited with the IFS anyway.

The trouble is the front has the most space around the ASB to do a center split. The rear is up tight next to the pumpkin with some z-bends there too.

Regarding the splines, that's a good point. It is a small diameter to start with in the first place. Another thought I had was welding on bar stock and then using removable 'keys' that would wedge between the bars to engage/disengage the ASB. A simple band would hold the keys in place when on the road. Don't know how much longitudinal flex is going on across the length of the ASB though and if they would create clatter under the vehicle. And it would be a PITA to put on/off especially in inclement weather.

 

[AimCOtaco]

I like your input and I'm sure you're aware, but removing spring force in the front is a recipe for over steer. Stiffen the end you want to slide. Further, I would think that the rear has the most to gain from losing the ASB as the front is limited with the IFS anyway.

The trouble is the front has the most space around the ASB to do a center split. The rear is up tight next to the pumpkin with some z-bends there too.

Regarding the splines, that's a good point. It is a small diameter to start with in the first place. Another thought I had was welding on bar stock and then using removable 'keys' that would wedge between the bars to engage/disengage the ASB. A simple band would hold the keys in place when on the road. Don't know how much longitudinal flex is going on across the length of the ASB though and if they would create clatter under the vehicle. And it would be a PITA to put on/off especially in inclement weather.

Yeah, mine is not not a perfect set up but should be close with slee heavy rears and decent dampers one day.

I think the front is more important because it is so limited by the IFS, I was absolutely shocked at the off road improvements to my Taco front end when I gained just an inch of down travel and deleted the front ASB. My take is that the front needs all the help in can get and the rear ain't too bad.

I think the rear would be easy to make disconnecting links for on one or both sides. Disconnecting the front is not as easy.

Your idea with keys and hubs is a good one and at least it could be tested without too much investment. I like it.