You should use the viscosity specified in your owners manual, for the ambient temperature in your area. Having said this, I have over the road fleet customers who use 75w-90 in trucks that operate in Northern states, but use 80w-140 for trucks that operate primarily in Texas, Arizona, etc. The main drawback is fuel economy, which will decline with the use of the heavier grade.
Front and rear diff weight and brand opinion 2000 LandCruiser
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You should use the viscosity specified in your owners manual, for the ambient temperature in your area. Having said this, I have over the road fleet customers who use 75w-90 in trucks that operate in Northern states, but use 80w-140 for trucks that operate primarily in Texas, Arizona, etc. The main drawback is fuel economy, which will decline with the use of the heavier grade.
2001LC
SILVER Star
Drive shaft Thrust bushing & Bearing #1 NLGI
Synthetic oil & lithium soap base chassis grease……..............Owner’s manual page 268 (Thrust bushing)
Synthetic oil & lithium soap base chassis grease NLGI #1…….FSM V2 SA-22 & 23 (bearing & bushing)
Molybdenum-disulfide lithium-base chassis grease….............Scheduled maintenance guide page 23 (drive shaft bearing)
#1 is recommend here, but you'd be hard pressed to find any shop in town using it. When #2 is used one may hear a groan while turn through dips during cold morning, before warmed up. This is ok and will not hurt anything others than ones ears.
The moly is nice on axle bushings, as it doesn't wash out as easily. But Moly #2 concerns me just bit in axle needled bearing application, as they run at very high speed. But I'm not overly concerned because it's a low pressure bearing.
Wheel bearing & spider joints (u-joints).
Wheel bearing:
Lithium base wheel bearing grease NLGI #2……….…..............Owner’s manual page 268
MP wheel bearing grease………………………………….............…......FSM V2 SA-13
Wheel bearing grease……………………………………….……................Scheduled maintenance guide page 23.
Moly will not dissipate heat well, so should not be used in these high speed application.
Propeller Shaft Slide yokes:
Lithium base wheel bearing grease NLGI #2…………...........….Owner’s manual page 268
MP………………………………………………………………………….................FSM V2 PR-6,7 & 9
Lithium base chassis grease……………………………………..............Scheduled maintenance guide page 22
I've used #1 moly in this application after cleaning & reassemble yokes. The reason was to have moly fill splines on slide yoke to reduce stiction. This stiction is a GM problem they created a special lube for. Where this may be a part of our Clunk & Thud issue. I've found my seals are so tight they don't allow grease to pass while lubing. The #1 flows a bit easier passed the seals, at least on my front propeller shaft. My rear propeller shaft seal is so tight I've never gotten grease to pass. The pressure while lubing was so great even with #1 the back plate bent out a bit, allowing grease to pass jusy enough to take pressure off. Lubing propeller shaft Risky (AKA Drive Shaft). I learned Lexus & Toyota shops where replacing propeller shaft, but found it didn't cure Clunk & Thud. They did find a quick & easy fix, by drilling a small hole in back plate. Moly whereas it may help in stiction, may cause seals to be even tighter. One day I'll remove my rear Propeller shaft again to clean out and tighten the back plate. When I do I'll use a #1 non moly in hopes to get grease to pass out the seal. I'll then move up to #2, just so I have one gears in my gun just like any shop in town.
It has been suggested letting propeller shaft seals dry by not lube per PM requirement is the cause of tight seals. This doesn't explain when these where new Toyota's & Lexus drilling a hole or my back plate leak correcting the issue.
Synthetic oil & lithium soap base chassis grease……..............Owner’s manual page 268 (Thrust bushing)
Synthetic oil & lithium soap base chassis grease NLGI #1…….FSM V2 SA-22 & 23 (bearing & bushing)
Molybdenum-disulfide lithium-base chassis grease….............Scheduled maintenance guide page 23 (drive shaft bearing)
#1 is recommend here, but you'd be hard pressed to find any shop in town using it. When #2 is used one may hear a groan while turn through dips during cold morning, before warmed up. This is ok and will not hurt anything others than ones ears.
The moly is nice on axle bushings, as it doesn't wash out as easily. But Moly #2 concerns me just bit in axle needled bearing application, as they run at very high speed. But I'm not overly concerned because it's a low pressure bearing.
Wheel bearing & spider joints (u-joints).
Wheel bearing:
Lithium base wheel bearing grease NLGI #2……….…..............Owner’s manual page 268
MP wheel bearing grease………………………………….............…......FSM V2 SA-13
Wheel bearing grease……………………………………….……................Scheduled maintenance guide page 23.
Moly will not dissipate heat well, so should not be used in these high speed application.
Propeller Shaft Slide yokes:
Lithium base wheel bearing grease NLGI #2…………...........….Owner’s manual page 268
MP………………………………………………………………………….................FSM V2 PR-6,7 & 9
Lithium base chassis grease……………………………………..............Scheduled maintenance guide page 22
I've used #1 moly in this application after cleaning & reassemble yokes. The reason was to have moly fill splines on slide yoke to reduce stiction. This stiction is a GM problem they created a special lube for. Where this may be a part of our Clunk & Thud issue. I've found my seals are so tight they don't allow grease to pass while lubing. The #1 flows a bit easier passed the seals, at least on my front propeller shaft. My rear propeller shaft seal is so tight I've never gotten grease to pass. The pressure while lubing was so great even with #1 the back plate bent out a bit, allowing grease to pass jusy enough to take pressure off. Lubing propeller shaft Risky (AKA Drive Shaft). I learned Lexus & Toyota shops where replacing propeller shaft, but found it didn't cure Clunk & Thud. They did find a quick & easy fix, by drilling a small hole in back plate. Moly whereas it may help in stiction, may cause seals to be even tighter. One day I'll remove my rear Propeller shaft again to clean out and tighten the back plate. When I do I'll use a #1 non moly in hopes to get grease to pass out the seal. I'll then move up to #2, just so I have one gears in my gun just like any shop in town.
It has been suggested letting propeller shaft seals dry by not lube per PM requirement is the cause of tight seals. This doesn't explain when these where new Toyota's & Lexus drilling a hole or my back plate leak correcting the issue.
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2001LC
SILVER Star
Nice to have and expert, welcome. I've a ?, do the M1 synthetic greases have seal modifiers/conditioners??
Your probably right with that they advise #1 grease just so it passes the seals easier when greasing. Stainlesssteve confirms this by saying you use #1 as it is easier to pump.
2001LC
SILVER Star
OM for 01 states: SAE 90 for above 0 deg F. SAE 80 or 80W-90 below 0deg F.
Am I correct: Synthetic don't break down like old conventional and can accommodate wider viscosity range?
So synthetic 75W-90 should be good for all 100 in north America. Exception (SAE above 90) may be in the desert's of the Southwest, pulling very heavy load, but replace (SAE90) for DD IMHO.
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2001LC
SILVER Star
To be clear: #1 is only recommended on axle bearing & bushing (no seal issue), not on propeller shaft yokes as I've suggested.
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Thanks for posting. The first thing that jumps out to me is that the author of this technical bulletin incorrectly refers to the grease as "NGLI" throughout the document. It should be "NLGI". Probably insignificant, but makes me wonder who wrote the document? (Kind of like referring to SAE 10w-30 as "SEA" 10w-30...just weird). My recommendation is to always to follow the OEM guidelines. But I would have absolutely no concern using the #2 in place of a #1, because they provide the SAME lubrication when the base oil viscosity is the same.
M1 Synthetic Grease is high performance NLGI#2 grease with a synthetic base oil ISO Viscosity 220. I can tell you that Mobil does not advertise any such feature or benefit.
The nature of the synthetic base stock used in Mobil gear lubricants is such that Mobil is able to make a product that covers the 75w-90 range. Whereas in the past with conventional lubricants, it was only possible to make an 80w-90. Won't hurt anything running the 80w-140 synthetic but may not be necessary if OEM is requiring 90.
2001LC
SILVER Star
Thanks for pointing out my typo's, I've gone back and correct.
But that doesn't change the body of the text, so not sure why you "wonder". I'm no expert on M1 or any lube, for which I've taken you at your word you are. But pointing to typo to discredit makes me "wonder" if I should.
I've written from data out of FSM/OM/SM and personal experience from maintaining my 100 for 13 years.
I appreciate your reply. Please understand that an OEM would likely not misspell NLGI (National Lubricating Grease Institute) in their official documentation. Therefore I was concerned about the source of the information as it did not appear to have been written by the OEM. Now that I know you typed it, it makes sense...
Steve,
Thank you for the education. Also, there was a revision of 'weight' viscosity on the gear oil front, and the 75-90 syn is 'thinner' than 80-90 dino at working temps. Hence the 75W-110 recommendations from Amsoil. OTOH, the film is purported to be stronger. This is for nitpickers and kitchen table tribology discussions though. I love Chevron product, their Delo ESI dino line is superb (both weights have more certs than majority of syn oils) and their syn 75W-90 boasts a significantly lower pour point than M1.
Sometimes nitpicking is warranted though. Depends on the model design and cost of repair / replacement. By dropping viscosity in some diffs we observed 11C drop in IR red temps as well as increase in wear and costs. Engineers are ignored quite often. Especially in N American markets. That's why I check Australian or Gulf sites for Mobil, Shell and others.
I recommend checking out local distributors for certain brands. Some prices are meh, some are terrific, but the sheer diversity of product lines is astounding and the service can be very good. If a 12-pack or a bucket is too much for you you could get into a group buy. Not for savings sake, but for the freshest quality product.
Examples: my local Mobil guy cannot beat M1 motor oil retail deals, but easily beats M1 Delvac gear oil offers from anywhere else. My local Chevron place has amazing products at very attractive price levels. And a lot of times the same places have many more brands too:I buy my Motorcraft Mercon V from my Chevron place by cases; when it's not there there is a bunch of premium options from Kendall, Havoline, etc.
Get to know your local market players. You will be surprised how many vendors make Pink SLLC under different labels and all that Euro Motul, Pentosin, Lubro, Quartz, Fuchs and other stuff -all that from WORLDPAC via your friendly shop owner.. They are all fighting for your dollar.
I use M1 Delvac 75W-90 for the transfer and Chevron Delo ESI 80W-90 for diffs, but you can use whatever you research, as long as you do everything on time.
[Yes, engineers all over the world use ISO numbers instead of Stone Age 'weights' in GL 4/5 we do]
Thank you for the education. Also, there was a revision of 'weight' viscosity on the gear oil front, and the 75-90 syn is 'thinner' than 80-90 dino at working temps. Hence the 75W-110 recommendations from Amsoil. OTOH, the film is purported to be stronger. This is for nitpickers and kitchen table tribology discussions though. I love Chevron product, their Delo ESI dino line is superb (both weights have more certs than majority of syn oils) and their syn 75W-90 boasts a significantly lower pour point than M1.
Sometimes nitpicking is warranted though. Depends on the model design and cost of repair / replacement. By dropping viscosity in some diffs we observed 11C drop in IR red temps as well as increase in wear and costs. Engineers are ignored quite often. Especially in N American markets. That's why I check Australian or Gulf sites for Mobil, Shell and others.
I recommend checking out local distributors for certain brands. Some prices are meh, some are terrific, but the sheer diversity of product lines is astounding and the service can be very good. If a 12-pack or a bucket is too much for you you could get into a group buy. Not for savings sake, but for the freshest quality product.
Examples: my local Mobil guy cannot beat M1 motor oil retail deals, but easily beats M1 Delvac gear oil offers from anywhere else. My local Chevron place has amazing products at very attractive price levels. And a lot of times the same places have many more brands too:I buy my Motorcraft Mercon V from my Chevron place by cases; when it's not there there is a bunch of premium options from Kendall, Havoline, etc.
Get to know your local market players. You will be surprised how many vendors make Pink SLLC under different labels and all that Euro Motul, Pentosin, Lubro, Quartz, Fuchs and other stuff -all that from WORLDPAC via your friendly shop owner.. They are all fighting for your dollar.
I use M1 Delvac 75W-90 for the transfer and Chevron Delo ESI 80W-90 for diffs, but you can use whatever you research, as long as you do everything on time.
[Yes, engineers all over the world use ISO numbers instead of Stone Age 'weights' in GL 4/5 we do]
80-90w Valvoline
I've changed them at 50k...still cherry....75K still cherry
great gear oil
I've changed them at 50k...still cherry....75K still cherry
great gear oil
2001LC
SILVER Star
Conventional Valvoline?
You're saying all (front, rear & TC) cherry?
apdxyk, are you saying a Toyota "revision" for the 100's or just speaking of Amsoil and others?
N
No, that was industry revision. You can search for SAE J300 and SAE J306 and ISO viscosity.
Anyway, here is one of them tables:
Viscosity Classifications
Example of confusion would be one of those mfgs, who sticks to required viscosity at operating temperature (this is important) and states: Mineral Oil Only. So, you call around and get all kinds of idiotic replies from 'there is no need to compensate their flawed design by this' to 'syn gear oil is foaming more and this prevents it from getting up the gears' (this was said authoritatively by a local dealer in-house expert).
In short: M1 Delvac 75W-90 is very good, close to 16 cSt at 100C and can be used for everything in my 04 LX. But.. its viscosity at 40C is not able to replicate mineral oil. As always, it all depends.. If mfg says use 80W-90 for this particular axle, the safest way is to follow their recommendation.
Whatever you use, just do it on time
No, that was industry revision. You can search for SAE J300 and SAE J306 and ISO viscosity.
Anyway, here is one of them tables:
Viscosity Classifications
Example of confusion would be one of those mfgs, who sticks to required viscosity at operating temperature (this is important) and states: Mineral Oil Only. So, you call around and get all kinds of idiotic replies from 'there is no need to compensate their flawed design by this' to 'syn gear oil is foaming more and this prevents it from getting up the gears' (this was said authoritatively by a local dealer in-house expert).
In short: M1 Delvac 75W-90 is very good, close to 16 cSt at 100C and can be used for everything in my 04 LX. But.. its viscosity at 40C is not able to replicate mineral oil. As always, it all depends.. If mfg says use 80W-90 for this particular axle, the safest way is to follow their recommendation.
Whatever you use, just do it on time
2001LC
SILVER Star
Mobil ONE does recommends the Delvac syn 75W-90 for the TC. I've just been using M1 syn 75w-90 LS gear lube, 5W-30 oil & ATF just to KISS.
Steve, apdxyk; What do you guy's think, should we be using gear lubes with LS on the label in front and rear diif's?
yes, conventional Valvoline all the way around, cheap
I don't do synthetic
I don't do synthetic
I have no idea, as there are conflicting opinions. Consensus seems to be that LS additive doesn't hurt, although might shorten the useful life of gear oil. So, a guess by me would be as long as you change it reguraly it doesn't hurt.
2001LC
SILVER Star
I've use the M1 syn LS when that's all I find on shelf, which is most of the time. PO & my Toyota Dealer used Castrol 75W-90 first 100K miles. Interesting MPG was better then, but may be unrelated to lube. I may switch back to see if I get a pickup in MPG.
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