friend is buying a 200...how bad is this rust? (1 Viewer)

[simon1234]

So my friend is buying a LC200...so he took me with him as i already got one.
It seems pretty rusty to me... we did test it with a screwdriver and a hammer and it did feel surprisingly solid depending on the way it looks. What do you guys think? It’s a real bargain too.

We have loads of salt on roads here so for everyone that’s not from the rust belt BEWARE.

 

[hickuptruck]

I mean....it's saveable if you get to it before this winter. But then again it's a 200 series so it's not the rarest thing out there.

I'd buy it, if it were 25-30% below KBB and one of the cheapest LCs on the market, if no rust on the rest of the body.

 

[linuxgod]

I have no reference for how vehicles hold up (or fall apart) for your country. They use a lot of salt here in the winter (Chicago, IL, USA) but spraying fluid film on as much as I can seems to have helped slow down the cancer that is rust.

If you're not going to work on the vehicle yourself and you're not planning modifications, it's probably fine and you'll run another 10 or 15 years like that. Expect for some work you might have to pay a bit more for the mechanic's labor. If you're planning to do modifications or work on it yourself then you may find it's a PITFA to break bolts loose. I owned a 1966 Mustang back in the 1990s and every bolt either required a 4' prying bar on the end of a wrench or it would need to be drilled out and re-tapped.

FWIW the rear end looks "wet" to me as if someone sprayed fluid film (or just oil) on it to help slow the rust.

 

[simon1234]

I mean....it's saveable if you get to it before this winter. But then again it's a 200 series so it's not the rarest thing out there.

I'd buy it, if it were 25-30% below KBB and one of the cheapest LCs on the market, if no rust on the rest of the body.

It’s really cheap only about 120000( i think thats about 75000 miles), full service records, one owner.

I have no reference for how vehicles hold up (or fall apart) for your country. They use a lot of salt here in the winter (Chicago, IL, USA) but spraying fluid film on as much as I can seems to have helped slow down the cancer that is rust.

If you're not going to work on the vehicle yourself and you're not planning modifications, it's probably fine and you'll run another 10 or 15 years like that. Expect for some work you might have to pay a bit more for the mechanic's labor. If you're planning to do modifications or work on it yourself then you may find it's a PITFA to break bolts loose. I owned a 1966 Mustang back in the 1990s and every bolt either required a 4' prying bar on the end of a wrench or it would need to be drilled out and re-tapped.

FWIW the rear end looks "wet" to me as if someone sprayed fluid film (or just oil) on it to help slow the rust.

I am from Slovenia. I actually was in Chicago 13 years ago during a winter. I would say the quantity of snow and salt is about the same.

Mine lc is a 2008 and this one is 2009, it a bit more rust than mine. But i am probably gonna tell him to buy... it’s pretty good for a daily for a price this low.

Man i would love a 60s mustang but maintaining would be really expensive here due to a low supply of parts.

Yea it think so too about fluid film...not uncommon here.

 

[linuxgod]

It’s really cheap only about 120000( i think thats about 75000 miles), full service records, one owner.

I am from Slovenia. I actually was in Chicago 13 years ago during a winter. I would say the quantity of snow and salt is about the same.

Mine lc is a 2008 and this one is 2009, it a bit more rust than mine. But i am probably gonna tell him to buy... it’s pretty good for a daily for a price this low.

Man i would love a 60s mustang but maintaining would be really expensive here due to a low supply of parts.

Yea it think so too about fluid film...not uncommon here.

For comparison, here's what my LC rear diff and from KDSS/LCA look like after 5 winters in Chicago. I apply fluid film in early November, and aside from that I don't really do much except occasionally try to spray the undercarriange with the pressure washing wand when washing the truck at the local self-service car wash maybe once a month in the winter.

The Mustang was fun but cars in the 60s were never meant to last 10 years/100k miles, much less 25-30 years. I think I rebuilt or replaced everything in that car at least once in the 5 years I owned it, including part of the frame. Thankfully parts for those kinds of vehicles are cheap here... and honestly the vehicle itself was cheap at the time - I paid $950 and it ran, probably spent $6-8k on the mechanical bits over 5 years, and solid for $3k in 1999... now the same condition car (runs great, body and interior look hideous... I never had the $ to fix the rust and dents and paint it) would probably be $20k.

 

[AnyMal]

So my friend is buying a LC200...so he took me with him as i already got one.
It seems pretty rusty to me... we did test it with a screwdriver and a hammer and it did feel surprisingly solid depending on the way it looks. What do you guys think? It’s a real bargain too.

We have loads of salt on roads here so for everyone that’s not from the rust belt BEWARE.




View attachment 2798005
View attachment 2798006View attachment 2798007View attachment 2798008View attachment 2798005

It's such a weird, wet, bubbly yet even patina i don't know what to say. It looks like it was destroyed, treated, filmed, re-sealed in and then rusted again.
What is the price? otherwise everything @linuxgod said.

 

[Lester did that]

It's got a fair amount of rust but looks solid. The brake lines look brand new. I've switched over to WoolWax. Same company, almost the same product just 5x as thick, 5x the mess and lasts 5x longer than FluidFilm. When it's fresh you can see the salt and brine crystalize on the surface. Kinda neat.

If it's a daily driver not being modded it'll be fine. If your from a rust belt then the mechanic will be used to it. From the pictures if I was working on it I would just make sure to have a replacement for every bolt, nut and screw that is going to be touched. A torch, Snap-On bolt extractors, plenty of Kroil and a 6 pack to help with patience. Use anti seize on everything you replace. From the work that I've done so far on a 2009 LC 85% of rusted bolts and crap has been removed. Probably cost me $1500 ish extra in time and parts that needed to be replaced. Also got a very good deal on it for the miles.

@linuxgod and that picture should be a sticky as to why you start rust maintenance when the vehicle is brand new! A lot of folks wait until there is a rust situation before they do anything. Spray the undercarriage before it begins and your clear sailing for the life of it. Even in a rust belt.

 

[linuxgod]

@linuxgod and that picture should be a sticky as to why you start rust maintenance when the vehicle is brand new! A lot of folks wait until there is a rust situation before they do anything. Spray the undercarriage before it begins and your clear sailing for the life of it. Even in a rust belt.

If you think that looks good I should wipe off the marine grease and snap a picture of my pristine KDSS valves

 

[simon1234]

For comparison, here's what my LC rear diff and from KDSS/LCA look like after 5 winters in Chicago. I apply fluid film in early November, and aside from that I don't really do much except occasionally try to spray the undercarriange with the pressure washing wand when washing the truck at the local self-service car wash maybe once a month in the winter.

View attachment 2798130

View attachment 2798132

The Mustang was fun but cars in the 60s were never meant to last 10 years/100k miles, much less 25-30 years. I think I rebuilt or replaced everything in that car at least once in the 5 years I owned it, including part of the frame. Thankfully parts for those kinds of vehicles are cheap here... and honestly the vehicle itself was cheap at the time - I paid $950 and it ran, probably spent $6-8k on the mechanical bits over 5 years, and solid for $3k in 1999... now the same condition car (runs great, body and interior look hideous... I never had the $ to fix the rust and dents and paint it) would probably be $20k.

View attachment 2798138

Wow that’s perfect. Most people don’t care as much fir their cars like you do. 5 years? Did you buy it new?

Here’s my six year old van, no protection, just cleaning the underbody. I think it looks pretty good considering i didn’t put anything on it.

It's such a weird, wet, bubbly yet even patina i don't know what to say. It looks like it was destroyed, treated, filmed, re-sealed in and then rusted again.
What is the price? otherwise everything @linuxgod said.

It’s been treated with fluid film. The settled on a price of 20000€. Pretty good for such low milage.

It's got a fair amount of rust but looks solid. The brake lines look brand new. I've switched over to WoolWax. Same company, almost the same product just 5x as thick, 5x the mess and lasts 5x longer than FluidFilm. When it's fresh you can see the salt and brine crystalize on the surface. Kinda neat.

If it's a daily driver not being modded it'll be fine. If your from a rust belt then the mechanic will be used to it. From the pictures if I was working on it I would just make sure to have a replacement for every bolt, nut and screw that is going to be touched. A torch, Snap-On bolt extractors, plenty of Kroil and a 6 pack to help with patience. Use anti seize on everything you replace. From the work that I've done so far on a 2009 LC 85% of rusted bolts and crap has been removed. Probably cost me $1500 ish extra in time and parts that needed to be replaced. Also got a very good deal on it for the miles.

@linuxgod and that picture should be a sticky as to why you start rust maintenance when the vehicle is brand new! A lot of folks wait until there is a rust situation before they do anything. Spray the undercarriage before it begins and your clear sailing for the life of it. Even in a rust belt.

I agree either spray or pressure wash the underbody! I am suprised that no car maker ships cars with underbody protection from the factory.

 

[blatant]

Rust is location specific. Mine is 10 yrs old and still has the oem stickers on the axle and other areas, looks new but dirty. Check the 100 series rust thread, it's universal, despite the 200 being a beefier and more heavy duty frame, they all rust if not in the south west. It's relative. @linuxgod may be a baseline for legging out no to minimal rust in a shiitty environment.