Free advice on installing a lock right (1 Viewer)

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So a simple rear axle brake job has expanded into adding a lock right. Making sure axle seals are good means pulling the axles, means getting at the c clips, means why not add a lock right!

Well, be advised, it may go easy. Probably will if you just put it in and dont get picky. But if you follow directions it can be a bit of a pain and involve finding parts NAPA no longer will even look for.

First, my pinion gear retainer bolt/pin broke. I must admit to a little panic at the idea I cant get ANYTHING more apart if i dont get the broke off stub of pin out. (Should admit at this point, I am a bit of a tool whore and have worked as a manual machinist in my past). So with kudos to this forum, I followed past experience and drilled and easy-outed the pin stub.

On to the install! Its a little like trying to stick a wet noodle up a wildcats a**. Once together I thought it prudent to check suggested clearances. No bueno.

So after more measuring I am again waiting on parts, this time side gear thrust washers. If you are gonna start this kinda project, you should buy a selection of thicknesses to work from, or you can wait on the brown truck, like me.

At this point I am confident I will git’r dun, and within specs. But the experience, and all the “easy peasy” videos made me wonder how many just put in the parts and “go for it”.

Will add more and some pictures when done. Just a cautionary tale to those thinking “I’ll do this to my daily driver this Saturday”.
 
See most poeple are unaware there are different thickness thrust washers for the side gears. I can tell you first hand when you " Just go for it " without checking that spec the lockright soon starts snapping over and then it is just annoying and you are waiting for the axle to snap at the splines,
 
I run the thickest thrush washers that just allow me to slide the pin in. I Run the locker on the tighter side of the recommend specs it will make for a quieter and smoother locker , how thick did you order ? 1.8 1.9. 2 never fits too tight.
I ordered the thickest three of the four sizes offered. These just were delivered (.070”, .075”, .080”). To get gap into the low range of specs will take the thickest and second thickest, this should also make the other measurement of comparing each sides clearance to pin more even.

Any advice on the measurement I just mentioned? On paper this will take out all clearance on that measurement but still only put me in the middle of the overall range allowed between drivers. Im assuming that as long as the driveR can disengage the driveN, I should be good.
 
That sounds good to me I think my last install I just was able to push the pin in don’t think I could even slide the feeler gauge in there but drivers where in spec I did one before I had to tap the pin in with a hammer a little. The locker worked fine also but later on a few years an axle seal leaked and I couldn’t get the pin out. I guess to much rubbing on it galled the pin it was a nightmare. So if you’re gonna go on the tighter side with the thrust washers just make sure the pin slides in with your fingers.
Thrust washers latest part numbers I have.
1.55-1.65 #41361-60011
1.07-1.80 #41361-60021
1.85-1.95 #41361-60031 I think I use these ones usually
2.00-2.10 #41361-60041 these ones usually to thick.

It’s been awhile since I’ve installed one
 
That sounds good to me I think my last install I just was able to push the pin in don’t think I could even slide the feeler gauge in there but drivers where in spec I did one before I had to tap the pin in with a hammer a little. The locker worked fine also but later on a few years an axle seal leaked and I couldn’t get the pin out. I guess to much rubbing on it galled the pin it was a nightmare. So if you’re gonna go on the tighter side with the thrust washers just make sure the pin slides in with your fingers.
Thrust washers latest part numbers I have.
1.55-1.65 #41361-60011
1.07-1.80 #41361-60021
1.85-1.95 #41361-60031 I think I use these ones usually
2.00-2.10 #41361-60041 these ones usually to thick.

It’s been awhile since I’ve installed one
Thanks for the input. Today is cure or kill. My mind keeps drifting to a ford 9” with custom 6 lug axles.
 
Thanks for the input. Today is cure or kill. My mind keeps drifting to a ford 9” with custom 6 lug axles.

That sounds good to me I think my last install I just was able to push the pin in don’t think I could even slide the feeler gauge in there but drivers where in spec I did one before I had to tap the pin in with a hammer a little. The locker worked fine also but later on a few years an axle seal leaked and I couldn’t get the pin out. I guess to much rubbing on it galled the pin it was a nightmare. So if you’re gonna go on the tighter side with the thrust washers just make sure the pin slides in with your fingers.
Thrust washers latest part numbers I have.
1.55-1.65 #41361-60011
1.07-1.80 #41361-60021
1.85-1.95 #41361-60031 I think I use these ones usually
2.00-2.10 #41361-60041 these ones usually to thick.

It’s been awhile since I’ve installed one
 
Well, I am sure everyone has been on pins and needles waiting to hear how my lock right project came out.

In the end i got the lock right in and within specifications. It sure seems like the assembly can only be as tight as leaving enough room to just get the second c clip in. In my case this is closer to the high end of the gap spec as measured between drivers.

The main holdup has been brakes and the high temps. Was a fight and nothing went easy.

Gotta say, i am not sure the lock right is gonna stay. Its noisy, and affects drivability in ways i am not thrilled with. Will have to see it working with both wheels pulling in mud or snow to make me happier with it.
 

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