frame flex - or not? (1 Viewer)

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I've seen a lot of threads where people do this or that to reduce frame flex.

Here, most guys I talk to will avoid any mod that reduces frame flex.

Comments - why do you want flex, or want NO flex??
 
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andrewfarmer said:
I've seen a lot of threads where people do this or that to reduce frame flex.

Here, most guys I talk to will avoid any mod that reduces frame flex.

Comments - why do you want flex, or want NO flex??

i guess the more flex = quicker the steel will fatigue
 
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you can't dampen the frame. let the suspension do its job, a rigid chassis is important. Fatigue isn’t really an issue, as Toyota designed the frame to flex
 

Mace

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bustanutley said:
you can't dampen the frame. let the suspension do its job, a rigid chassis is important. Fatigue isn’t really an issue, as Toyota designed the frame to flex
You have never ripped a frame apart huh ;)
 

Eskimo

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I shot for no flex. It's msot important in something like a truck or sports car, but for us, the frame can fatigue and crack.. I've had to repair a few sections where mine has cracked.

This isn't a real value, but my rig just "feels" better with a more rigid frame.

If nothing else, your sheet metal will thank you. ;)
 
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sure haven’t mace, but maybe I’m not hard enough on things :idea:

do the rivets pull through?

I agree with eskimo on the feeling part, My cage holds my frame pretty rigid, before I could feel the front end bounce around.
 
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My friends 1980 fj40 had a 4" lift with 33" tires. He has ripped the frame out at the rear leaf spring front perch, then it ripped out the front of the frame where the shackle hanger mounts to on a trail, Limiting frame flex really wouldn`t of helped him much.
But his big problem was the Adapter to his T-case.
He has a 350TBI, 465, stock T-case. The bolts in the adapter kept getting sheared off, so he put in 4 or 6 dowel pins, and it still happened.
the cross member mount he used, was the type that bolts to the back of the t-case, the other mounts was his engine mounts. So we figured with this set up, he was twisting the frame to much, and it was shearing the adapter bolts, and dowel pins off.
 
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bustanutley said:
let the suspension do its job, a rigid chassis is important.

I agree. In addition to sheetmetal and bushings, you run the risk of abrasion to fuel lines, brake lines, and electronics or radiator/fan contact if the flex is too severe. I say limit it as much as possible.
 
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Frame flex is not a good thing!

hanger_0_f.jpg


hanger_1_f.jpg
 

Mace

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Mine started to rip like that.. I caught it before it got to that point..


Links are hte only way to go..
 
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I welded up the frame, inside and outside, made a box gusset for the spring hanger from 3x3x3/16", welded up the inner frame as much as possible with the truck assembled and are boxing the rear open frame sections with 3/16" plate kit. If your going to wheel a 40 hard with stock hangers, I would at least put the box gussets on the hangers before they crack, after they crack it's much more work.

hanger_5_f.jpg
 

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