Well done. Good riddance of that Damocles sword.
For those who removed their AHC, what were the "gotchas" during install?
- Thread starter Pyrenees
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- #42
That's actually a strangely appropriate analogy.
Now, I am not sure if you commended me by calling it an appropriate analogy or insulted me by finding it strange that I have the capacity to come up with appropriate analogies
Have a great weekend!!
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- #44
Now, I am not sure if you commended me by calling it an appropriate analogy or insulted me by finding it strange that I have the capacity to come up with appropriate analogies
Have a great weekend!!
They do say that Madison has the highest percentage of people with Doctorate degrees per capita in the country, so I'll let you decide.
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- #45
^^ posted in the classifieds selling the AHC parts that were removed today.
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- #46
@AlabamaLX how did you pop the old AHC switch out of the center console to insert the blank panel? I looked/felt around but I didn't see anything obvious. I'd rather not break anything in the process. Thanks!
Use a plastic trim removal tool to pry it up, such as the ones in the below link. Takes a bit of force before it pops out.
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- #48
The height control switch came out very easily with the trim tools. Also, pulled fuse 42 (20A) and 48 (15A) on the kick panel fusebox and the AHC lights on the dash disappeared. No need to pull out the 50A one in the engine bay.
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- #49
Seems a little low in the front. Is this normal with new rear springs? Half tank of gas there too. Do I need to give it some mileage for the new rear springs to settle in? Crank the t-bars? Am I overreacting to this? 32.5" front and 34.5" rear, from ground to the fender edge, on-center with the wheel. I definitely feel like the hood seems lower while driving it, although it does drive perfectly.
Spotted in its natural habitat...
Spotted in its natural habitat...
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It does look a little low.
Measure from the center of the hub, to the fender lip, and see what you've got. Mine measures 19.75" front, and 20.75" rear.
The rear will settle some, not much.
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I vote that you just crank the TBs until you like how it looks and drives. 2 inches of rake isn't the end of the world (my LX has a pretty similar stance) but you'd be fine with a bit less. I also doubt the rear springs will settle much more than 1/4 inch.
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- #52
So, my earlier measurements were including the 14" additional inches from the ground to the center of the hub. So my front would be 18.5" and my rears 20.5". I took these measurements pretty quickly in the parking lot at work, so they might be slightly inaccurate. Still, something just isn't quite right up front. Seems about an inch low.
I am not necessarily susprised about the rear height. There were two parts variations available for the OEM LC rear springs, one set being about 0.5" taller than the others, with the shorter pair no longer available new.
edit: ok here's the noob question. How hard is it to crank the T-bars? I assume you put all four axles on jack stands and get underneath, but then what? Is it actually difficult? Special tools? I could bring it back to the shop but that would be kinda time consuming so I'd just as soon do it myself.
Also, am I safe to assume I can drive it like this for a while? I'll have some time during the holidays to mess with it.
I am not necessarily susprised about the rear height. There were two parts variations available for the OEM LC rear springs, one set being about 0.5" taller than the others, with the shorter pair no longer available new.
edit: ok here's the noob question. How hard is it to crank the T-bars? I assume you put all four axles on jack stands and get underneath, but then what? Is it actually difficult? Special tools? I could bring it back to the shop but that would be kinda time consuming so I'd just as soon do it myself.
Also, am I safe to assume I can drive it like this for a while? I'll have some time during the holidays to mess with it.
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trdcorolla
SILVER Star
Make sure the ground is level where you are at.
30mm socket and a long breaker bar, I did them with wheels on the ground and used the 3' extension handle off my 3 ton jack over my 1/2" socket
Very easy to do. You just need a 30mm socket (I have one if you don't) and either a long ratchet and/or breaker or cheater bar. There are divergent opinions regarding whether to jack up the wheel before turning TBs. What I've taken away is for an LX with AHC you can leave wheels on the ground since you are just preloading the spring but not actually changing suspension geometry (I've done this with no ill effects). For an LC like yours it is now many say you should lift the wheel before turning TBs which makes some sense because you're actually lifting the vehicle as you do so and you may as well unweight things before turning.
It's pretty straightforward to adjust it, but beware of alignment if you've already had it aligned. I'm not sure how much adjustment of the t-bars it takes to throw alignment off, but an inch of height adjustment is significant.
Good point--forgot about this.
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- #58
Yeah they did the alignment on it already. I mean, sucks but oh well. Y'all think raising the front an inch would screw it up that bad? I'm a suspension noob, so I honestly have no idea if it would be minor or catastrophic.
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I think you could drive it to the shop to get it realigned but you'd not like it that way long term.
Hard to say. The tough part about alignments is that if it's off by a small amount you may not notice it until you've ruined/severely worn a set of tires. The set of tires is way more valuable than an alignment, so it's just good practice to align it anytime you suspect it to have moved. I bet you'll be ok to drive for a while if you don't notice anything obvious while driving. I'd do it as soon as is convenient.
Some shops also offer a quick/cheap alignment check so you don't have to commit to $100+ alignment.
