For John. N74L vs N101 (1 Viewer)

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sleeoffroad

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John, the N74L should work by swapping some of the bushings.

Measurements:

N74L compressed vs N101 = 1" longer
N74L extended vs N101 = 2.6" longer

The bottom bushing ID is 19mm but on the N101 the width is 45mm and the N74L is 40mm. So you would need to use the N101 bottom bushing.

The top pin is 17mm on the N101 and 14mm on the N74L. The index washer lip is 26mm on the N101 and 22mm on the N74L.

So on the top you need to use the N101's washers and hardware, but you need to use the poly bushings from the N74L.

So there you go, send the check. :D
 
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Christo,
Do you happen to know the size of the nut on the top of the N101 so that I could go to a fastener store and buy more without taking off my shocks (PITA)? Above, you said 17 mm for the top pin of the N101, is that all I need or do I also need to know the thread count?
Thanks,
GB
 
how about some context here so this becomes useful to the rest of us and earn a permanent spot in the forum, eh? :)
 
sleeoffroad said:
John, the N74L should work by swapping some of the bushings.

Measurements:

N74L compressed vs N101 = 1" longer
N74L compressed vs N101 = 2.6" longer

The bottom bushing ID is 19mm but on the N101 the width is 45mm and the N74L is 40mm. So you would need to use the N101 bottom bushing.

The top pin is 17mm on the N101 and 14mm on the N74L. The index washer lip is 26mm on the N101 and 22mm on the N74L.

So on the top you need to use the N101's washers and hardware, but you need to use the poly bushings from the N74L.

So there you go, send the check. :D

Great. 2 questions:

1. So you can send me what I need?
2. How much more extension (longer) will the L give me over the 101?
 
ShottsUZJ100 said:
Great. 2 questions:

1. So you can send me what I need?
2. How much more extension (longer) will the L give me over the 101?

Regarding question #1: If I already have the 101s and you send me L's then between the 2 sets I have what I need? :confused:
 
I take it the point of all this is to allow for greater shock extension, presumably if one puts lifting coils in the back? how much of a problem is it otherwise? and what springs would this be for?
 
sleeoffroad said:
2.6" more on extension. (Typo'ed the original post). Yes, theoretically you buy the L shocks and use some parts from both to make it work.

Gotcha. Send them out Mr. Slee. You have my info. Thanks!
 
e9999 said:
I take it the point of all this is to allow for greater shock extension, presumably if one puts lifting coils in the back? how much of a problem is it otherwise? and what springs would this be for?

Yes, more rear droop. It will help to stabilize the truck when twisted.

Here's a pic of my 100 (the rear has a tad more dropp to go....very little though. And here's my buddy's 80 w'L-shocks. Look at the added droop and therfore more traction.

He's only running 33's so the view is skewed a tad.
 
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sleeoffroad said:
Yes, more droop, but a wheel that is just hanging there normally has very little traction because there is no weight on it.

True, though that added flex does help in my 80 often. That added flex should help the 100 too especially when I'm in a situation where the front dives and the rear wheel might lift. It should keep me better planted like the 80.
 
sleeoffroad said:
Yes, more droop, but a wheel that is just hanging there normally has very little traction because there is no weight on it.

Example....Picture 1 is an old shot of me with 33's. I'm basically "resting" on my rear end. The pass front is lifting up for two reasons:
1. Lack of front flex
2. Lack of rear flex

I'm guessing that if the rear shocks here were the 2.6" longer L-shocks then the truck would have been more level because that drivers rear corner of the truck (not the wheel...it's against the rock and can't go lower) would be up 2.6 inches (or so) higher because the spring supports it and therefore the pass front wheel would be closer to the ground adding more stability (being less tippy).

???

Picture 2 (another old one)....I'm locked in the rear climbing the ledge. If I had L-shocks my wheel wouldn't be off the ground and therefore I'd have traction from both wheels.

Make sense???
 
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The purchase has been made...from Off-Road Unlimited. KIDDING! :D :D

I will report back and with pictures. I'll try and find a place to do comparo-flexes. :D

Please comment on my above theory (those 2 pics). Agree? disagree? Don't know?
 
IT'S COMPLETE!
THEY WORK GREAT!
:D :D :D

It all assembled as Slee said except that we used the top washer from the L-shock so it would match the L-shock's upper shaft and bolt.

The brake lines needed extending as you'll see in the pictures. Cake!

I did a quick check off road and as suspected, they help a lot, just as they do in an 80. I always wanted the rear flex my 80 had and now I've got it.

The 863 spring is in well at full droop. We couldn't move it. :cool:

On-road it drive and handled bumps just like the 100-shocks. I couldn't tell a difference. That's good too knowing valving is close or the same.

ALL IN ALL....A MUST FOR A MODIFIED 100 THAT'S GOING TO RUN TRAILS!
It sure will help make up for the lesser flex the 100 has up front. My 5 miute wheeling session asnwered that right off!

PICS:

1. Shock comparo
2. Tight brake lines at full droop
3. Lowered brake lines (simple steel bracket was cut and drilled)
 
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Had to run to home depot and buy a small piece of flat stock, eh? Should have removed the barcode and could have color matched it at least. Still the best designed off-road rear 100 series bumper :D I am sure it must have been a slip of the tung in that other thread! :D
 

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