Fog Light Modifications

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I'm watching this thread too...anyone actually make this happen?
 
Anyone have an update on this? I'm still trying to figure out how to make it so the Fog Stalk can turn on my Light Bar without the headlights needing to be turned on...

WHY? So I can use my LED light bar to setup camp (hooked up to my aux battery) and not drain my primary big 31 series battery...
 
Sorry if I'm digging up old s#%t here, but wondering if any of you have a clear idea of where the fog light relay is and how to get to it. I want to run my fogs when running parking lights, low beams, and high beams, and have them turn off when ignition is turned off. I have seen a lot of talk about this, but nothing very clear on it. Thanks in advance for your help!
 
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Oh, while nosing around by my DS kick panel I ripped my foot rest off by accident:mad:. Man that was flimsy...
 
Sorry if I'm digging up old s#%t here, but wondering if any of you have a clear idea of where the fog light relay is and how to get to it. I want to run my fogs when running parking lights, low beams, and high beams, and have them turn off when ignition is turned off. I have seen a lot of talk about this, but nothing very clear on it. Thanks in advance for your help!

Fog light relay is in the drivers side lower kick panel on the back side, very top row in the middle
 
Anyone?
 
On the headlight diagram, the fuse in question, the 10A HEAD (LH-LWR) that powers the fog relay (shown here in the upper left of pg 86 in headlight diagram 20001.pdf), only has power when the combination switch is in either the "flash" position (pin 8 on C16 - to flash the high beams) or when the low beams are on (pin 13 on C16) - unless of course you've done the high-beam pin 17-to-ground mod in which case it also has power in high-beam mode. These two pins close the HEAD relay (at the top right of page 87 in headlight switch diagram0001.pdf), thereby providing power to the 10A HEAD (LH-LWR) fuse, thereby providing positive power to the fog light relay. So the fog light relay is only powered when the head lights are on.

So it seems you have to decouple the LH low beam from the fog light circuit, and provide the fog light relay it's own power path to be able to use the factory fog switch on the stalk to turn on the fogs without ANY headlights being on.

Since I live in AZ, and we get fog once every 12 years, I probably won't be doing this mod... :lol::lol::lol: so someone else with have to provide either ignition-fused power or constant-fused power to the red and light blue pin 1 wire going into the FR FOG RELAY. I "think" that would solve the problem.

The FR FOG relay is located on the driver's side (LH) kickpanel, top left. It might be interesting trying to provide a new power source for it. :eek: Probably more room to intercept the 1C pin 3 lead coming out of the HEAD LH LWR fuse on the bottom of the engine bay JB and provide power to it in the engine bay from somewhere.
According to this you could just run a jumper wire from an ignition powered fuse to the HEAD fuse, I think...

EDIT: Technically this does work, but it also turns on the low beams at all times.... anyone have the wiring diagrams that include the fog light relay?
 
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Bumping this back up. At least on the later model 100s, since the fog light relay is powered by the headlight relay, which is all buried in that non-serviceable lower part of the fuse box, it's gonna require more invasive hacking and re-wiring to bypass the system altogether. And unless you want to run a bunch of hacky wires up to the combination switch, I think most people have opted just to deal with the requirement that the headlights are on to run the fog lights.

Which is why we need to hack Night View.
 
Ok, after further study you can jumper one accessible wire to make this happen on '98-'03 trucks:

On the driver's kick panel junction box:

- On connector 2J cut pin 11 (red-with-blue-stripe wire) leaving a pigtail to work with.

- Tape the wire end that's coming out of the harness (red-with-blue-stripe wire). This wire is hot when your headlights are on.

- Connect pin 11's pigtail to pin 8 on the same connector 2J (black-with-red-stripe wire). This is ignition-switched power.

This way the FOG relay's coil will get its power from the IGN circuit, ready to be activated when you turn on the Fog switch like always.

2J.jpg


For later year trucks this wiring is underneath the main engine bay junction box on connector 1A:

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- On connector 1A cut pin 61 (red-with-blue-stripe wire) leaving a pigtail to work with.

- Tape the wire end that's coming out of the harness (red-with-blue-stripe wire). This wire is hot when your headlights are on.

- Connect pin 61's pigtail to pin 60 on the same connector 1A (black-with-white-stripe wire). This is ignition-switched power.
 
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Been wanting to do this for a very long time now and just use my fog lamps w/o the projector low beams. Will just wait for THE fog light hack.
 
Ok, after further study you can jumper one accessible wire to make this happen:

On the driver's kick panel junction box:

- On connector 2J cut pin 11 (red-with-blue-stripe wire) leaving a pigtail to work with.

- Tape the wire end that's coming out of the harness (red-with-blue-stripe wire). This wire is hot when your headlights are on.

- Connect pin 11's pigtail to pin 8 on the same connector 2J (black-with-red-stripe wire). This is ignition-switched power.

This way the FOG relay's coil will get its power from the IGN circuit, and be activated when you turn on the Fog switch like always.

View attachment 2194277
Wow. Amazing. Are you an EE or something? Also, I have a 2004... That looks like 98-2000?
 
Wow. Amazing. Are you an EE or something? Also, I have a 2004... That looks like 98-2000?
All the info is in the EWDs if you can suffer through them. These mods are like little treasure hunts for me. And I do work with electrical schematics and circuit boards daily.

That is a ‘98 junction box diagram. I’ll check later to see if the ‘04 wiring is similar. Heading to jury duty this morning...
 
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Wouldn’t it be easier to independently turn off the headlights? By attacking the problem at this angle, you eliminate the chance of not realizing that your tail lights are off while driving.
 
Wouldn’t it be easier to independently turn off the headlights? By attacking the problem at this angle, you eliminate the chance of not realizing that your tail lights are off while driving.
What?
 
Wouldn’t it be easier to independently turn off the headlights? By attacking the problem at this angle, you eliminate the chance of not realizing that your tail lights are off while driving.
I think this thread is mainly about independent control of the fog lights, not complying with regulations regarding driving in foggy conditions.
 

I think this thread is mainly about independent control of the fog lights, not complying with regulations regarding driving in foggy conditions.

It seems easier to simply run a relay to the headlight socket to be able to open the circuit at the light socket. then run the remote/trigger line to an aftermarket switch. You wouldn’t need a writing diagram to find a specific wire, you wouldn’t need to rewire anything, if you didn’t like it you could easily remove it by taking out the relay. The most complicated step would be running a small wire through the firewall.

it would come with the additional safety of not tricking yourself into thinking that because you have lights shooting out of your front that you have lights shooting out of the back. Preventing you from unintentionally driving on public roads without your taillights on. You would turn your lights on like normal, then turn off the headlights with the aftermarket switch.
 
I think the point here is to run the fogs with the parking lights on, brights, etc. which in turn means the taillights are on as well. I don't think you would want to just run the fogs independently...
 
I think the point here is to run the fogs with the parking lights on, brights, etc. which in turn means the taillights are on as well. I don't think you would want to just run the fogs independently...

exactly
 

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